Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey just me again,

Thanks once again for the part no's you were able to get for me last week they were tops and i ordered and fitted the parts from Nissan on the weekend!

Just another quick question for the Injector Sealing O-rings are they the same part on the r33 gtr as on the r32 gtr, (16636-V5000) or another no altogether, and are they the seal between the fuel rail and the injector head? As that's the part i'm after!

Many Thanks once again,

All your help here with Part #'s is excellent!

skysaresilver

The o-ring seals on the injectors are all the same. The bigger seals at the top of the injector head where they fit into the fuel rail don't actually seal anything. They are there to act more or less like a shock absorber. The only seals to worry about are the o-rings.

That was actually going to be my next quesiton.

After looking in the workshop manual they say to change the insulators as well as the o-ring.

Do you have the insulator number as well?

Seeing as I am changing them to try and track down a running issue, I figure I might as well change all.

Thanks.

David

Oh and can you give me the part number for the coolant temp sensor (looks like the air temp sensor in the plenum).

Can can you verify if they are the same sensor for both coolant temp and air temp?

Thanks.

D.

Thanks Ron, I really appreciate it. :action-smiley-069:

Do you know if the coolant temp sensor is the same part number as the air temp sensor in the plenum?

Thanks.

If you ever come to the Bahamas, I will definitly by you a pint. :P

D.

I searched for the air temp sensor but only found air bag sensors. Mind you i was stuffed last night. I'm thinking it could be an exhaust temp sensor (even though its located before the exhaust) the program can be funny like that I reckon.

Can anybody that know's which part we are looking for help out?

Hey all, and i big hello to AREP3

I apologise for my disappearance from the forums. I no longer have the time to commit to posting part numbers on the board, but i will do what I can, so what i would suggest is do a search on the forum for what you are after as they will be scattered throughout the place.

Ill be back here and there.

AREP3, your doing a marvelous job here! if only i could nominate you for a logie.

kind regards,

Arbess

Thanks Ron, I really appreciate it. :P

Do you know if the coolant temp sensor is the same part number as the air temp sensor in the plenum?

Thanks.

If you ever come to the Bahamas, I will definitly by you a pint. :)

D.

Had another look mate and all I can get is the same part number so i'm GUESSING that they are the same part.

Hey I have a double request:

R33 Gtst - inlet cam gear with VCT 13024-42L02-

R34 Gtst (NEO) - inlet cam gear with VCT13024-5L300-

Want to see if they're the same.....fingers crossed.

Not the same sorry mate

Hey I have a double request:

R33 Gtst - inlet cam gear with VCT

R34 Gtst (NEO) - inlet cam gear with VCT

Want to see if they're the same.....fingers crossed.

Can i also enquire about:

R32 gstst - inlet cam gear with VCT

Cheers

Dane

Hi there

I want to know the part number of the two arms that hold up the boot lip for a R34 GTT 4DR...and also will i be able to order a repair manual from nissan for my car...Thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...