Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I know this is currently a thread for genuine part numbers but I was thinking that is may help a lot of people to add aftermarket equivalents for some of the not-so-critical items, ie fanbelts etc.

Just incase you think it is worth while I'll add the Gates equivalent accesory belts for an R33 GTST.

Belt Desc Standard Part no. Gates Part No.

ALT/WP Belt 4PK850 4PK850

PS Belt 3PK845 3PK835

AC Belt 4PK910 4PK915

These numbers aren't the actual Nissan part numbers but refer to the belt dimensions, I think it is written on them.

For those who don't know, when talking about automotive Micro-V Belts the part numbers I have given above mean the following:

4PK850

4 - 4 Ribs (V's)

K - Belt Pitch (distance between teeth)

850 - Length of Belt in mm.

This should work for all aftermarket micro-v's regardless of brand. Like above if they don't have the exact matching number you can get away with the next nearest size depending on the amount of takeup left.

Edited by Fry_33
lol why is LH $100 more expensive.

Prices are based on quantity sold. Prob sold a couple more RH then left.

Same applies to a new model car. Parts start off exp and the more that are sold then the cheaper they get. Once the products start to not sell so much price will go back up again lol funny i know.

This heap of sh!t below is the "Mode Door Actuator". It if from an R32 GT-R & resides in the drivers side footwell on the left behind the trim panel that sits below the instrument cluster.

Anyway is there a part number & how much is it? Because I am sick of have no mode door actuation. :P

Thanks in advance. ;)

post-5134-1193804564_thumb.jpg

This heap of sh!t below is the "Mode Door Actuator". It if from an R32 GT-R & resides in the drivers side footwell on the left behind the trim panel that sits below the instrument cluster.

Anyway is there a part number & how much is it? Because I am sick of have no mode door actuation. ;)

Thanks in advance. :)

I would shop around for the mode door actuator. I have replaced mine with a brand new genuine 1 from Nissan and the price difference between dealerships is huge! the highest i was quoted was around the $460 mark yet i paid $189 for mine. I recently changed my OS to Linux and haven't been able to look up anything in FAST. i have the part details recorded in my word doc that i keep on my car but i seam to have misplaced this file! :)

  • 2 weeks later...

I got basics on these 2 hoses, need to know price and availability asap!

15192ra

15192r

model, R32 GTR

section number if your using the cat system, 144 e02

They are coolant lines from the turbos and they arc up and meet in the middle above the turbos can also fax pictures from the cat system if needed.

Really need these asap

Cheers, Mick

I got basics on these 2 hoses, need to know price and availability asap!

15192ra

15192r

model, R32 GTR

section number if your using the cat system, 144 e02

They are coolant lines from the turbos and they arc up and meet in the middle above the turbos can also fax pictures from the cat system if needed.

Really need these asap

Cheers, Mick

If you require these asap, id suggest you grab the phone book and call your closest Nissan dealership.

This thread is for part numbers only and parts arn't sold here. There are some members on here that do work for Nissan and may be able to give you a price but i dunno if they could supply them for you.

Cheers.

you sure can, but I don't have the part number. The insurance company paid for new seals for mine when the rear screen was broken. $0 excess. from memory the seals were about $500

Ok, Fast Guru's, I got some part numbers that I would like confirmed if possible.

Its for a 96 R33 GTR, you can see the vin in my id info.

Can you confirm:

13270-58S01 - Gasket set for Valve Covers (contains 2x valve cvr gaskets, 2x half moon gaskets, 20x grommets)

24079-84T00 - Coil pack harness from ign amplifier to coils (I broke the plastic locking tab on #3 coil plug)

23731-02U11 - CAS

edit: Ok, found out that the bold part number is only for one side of the valve cover, can anyone confirm if these are for the Half moon gaskets?

Cam Half Moon Seals x2: 11051-58S00

Thanks guys.

David.

Edited by i4dat

R32 GTS-T

Tensioner spring - part # - 13072 58S10 $3.03

Sump plug - part # - 11128 01M05 $2.53

Sump plug washer - part # - 15193 P9000 $1.40

Tensioner spring is for cam belt tensioner pulley.

Dammn p9000's are only 80c at out work retail :O which dealer sold it to you for that price? lol

Rex Gorrell Nissan, Geelong. I don't think i'll worry about the extra 60c. :rofl: Hardly worth shopping around for............

Looking for part number for these.

1: The boot garnish, as in the plastic part that is on the rear of the boot where the boot clip is. Held on by those plastic plugs that break.

2: Center Console cover, Whole plastic item that is around the cd player clock ect.

3: Power Window button garnish mines faded and worn.

These are all for Series 1 R33 1993

2: Center Console cover, Whole plastic item that is around the cd player clock ect.

Also keen to know this, I can see me breaking it trying to take it off, has a crack already from previous owner installing a deck.

OK Part number gurus, I need the part number for the loom that sites next to the oil filter on an rb26, has 2 knock sensors attached, oil temp and aac plugs among others.

Looks like 24079-05U01, can anyone confirm before I order it? Vin# is BNR32-014400.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
×
×
  • Create New...