Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ja! and I'm surprised they sell it seperately I thought it was part of the main engine harness.....might grab one myself :)

thanks heaps mate. Spent about half an hour today at Nissan and couldnt find the part in FAST. Will ring them tomorrow and get one ordered in :D

how do i get a hold of a copy of FAST???? seems a few "non employees" have obtained copies and it would come in handy at work and home :down:

yeah sometimes there is more than 1 page in a section and this is one of them - there are about 30 wierd bits in the wiring section right down to clips, cable ties etc etc

not sure of a current place you can get FAST, I saw it years ago when it was live on bit torrent. its a really big set of files 2.2gb. Someone from this thread might be able to pm you where to get it

hey i need some part numbers for my car 1993 R32 GTS4

its a bit of a list i know there jst little things but i would like to get them out of the way

also i dont actually know what parts i have to get so i'll just right down what the mechanic said i need done :)

Left Hand Rack Boot

Drivers Front Drive Shaft Diff Seal Leak

P/Steering belt

HICAS leaking oil (Drivers Side)

Gearbox Hydraulic hose leaking

Front Caster Radius Buch cracked

4WD front drive shaft seal leak

Cheers sorry for the list

well....I'm too lazy to look all of them up.

But you can get aftermarket:

steering rack boot

power steer belt

radius rod bush

cheaper and in the case of radius rod better than standard.

diff seal (drivers side drive shaft) I think you need to go nissan. front drive shaft seal I've never heard of leaking? but it would be nissan as well.

hicas and attessa hose are a bit trickier, depends what the leak is. nip up the attessa hose a bit it might stop, if not check the little o ring or the flare on the hose. hicas no idea just ditch it and get a lock bar.

but your mechanic can probably get better prices than you can anyway

well....I'm too lazy to look all of them up.

But you can get aftermarket:

steering rack boot

power steer belt

radius rod bush

cheaper and in the case of radius rod better than standard.

diff seal (drivers side drive shaft) I think you need to go nissan. front drive shaft seal I've never heard of leaking? but it would be nissan as well.

hicas and attessa hose are a bit trickier, depends what the leak is. nip up the attessa hose a bit it might stop, if not check the little o ring or the flare on the hose. hicas no idea just ditch it and get a lock bar.

but your mechanic can probably get better prices than you can anyway

cheers man appreciate it..oh and what do u mean by nip up the attessa hose?? lol

Edited by vinnie34gtt
hm I can't work it out. looks like 83306-04u10 and 83307-04u01 are the windows, and I can see the clips parts too, but not the actual seals. Possibly its just sikaflex.

there are seals on the front (72750-04u10) and rear screens (79780-04u15)

Hmmm. I spoke to Nissan and they said that they couldn't order just the seals, and I would have to buy the window kit (about $480 a pop). Urgh. Anybody have any ideas? :)

Graham, don't go to nissan for them, I got them aftermarket from a gas strut guy in the phone book. They match one of the local maximas (not sure which series, but the guy I called had them on hand)

lucien, have you caught up with louie? pretty sure rear quarter seals don't exist and you would just use windsreen goop to hold them it.

Vince...at the rear of your gearbox there will the a line going in (17mm from memory). have a good look thats probably where the leak is coming from. Tighten it carefully (don't put too much force in or you can damage the fitting since it is hollow). If it s already tight take it right off, check the flare on the end of the pipe is in good condition (no nicks or bends) and put it back in again making sure it is straight. If you do undo it you will loose some (or all depending how slow you are) of the attessa fluid. If so, refill the resoviour in the boot with auto trans fluid and bleed the attessa system (search for instructions)> Or just leave it for your mechanic to fix lol

Part no's for Nissan stagea 260RS gas filled telescopic bonnet supports anyone? Them thangs wot stops lid falling on head when sticky-beaking? vin WGNC34-1008837

Cheers GW :D

I got a pair of these for my Laurel, they cost me $167 each. I tried to get them regassed but the seals were rooted, if your seals are ok maybe you could try this option.

Graham, don't go to nissan for them, I got them aftermarket from a gas strut guy in the phone book. They match one of the local maximas (not sure which series, but the guy I called had them on hand)

Hi Duncan, thanks for the info, my car is S1 & gas struts are about rooted. No apparent leaks but then gas is tricky stuff to spot :P This guy of yours, could you post or pm me his name/fone # as there are a few of them in the book. Quite a few actually. :( Or a manufacturer & part # from your ship?

Cheers GW :P

PS: Thanks Russell, because I be way out back I will be going for replacement first then maybe get old ones regassed if serviceable. Thanks again. GW

Edited by 260tech
Hi Duncan, thanks for the info, my car is S1 & gas struts are about rooted. No apparent leaks but then gas is tricky stuff to spot :P This guy of yours, could you post or pm me his name/fone # as there are a few of them in the book. Quite a few actually. :( Or a munufacturer & part # from your ship?

Cheers GW :P

just some quick info. Any guy that does struts can help you. they will fit just generic no name stuff that will work perfectly.

An old mate of mine used to work for Motorgear. They had a book (cant remember which company it was from) that had most models listed. He said u can use any of the struts out of the book to replace and strut as long as the ends were the same. You just gotta look at the open size, closed size and the strength. I replaced the struts in the tailgate of my old VL wagon with struts suited for a mitsubishi. a little more open length in them so the gate opened higher. :D

thanks heaps mate. Spent about half an hour today at Nissan and couldnt find the part in FAST. Will ring them tomorrow and get one ordered in :)

how do i get a hold of a copy of FAST???? seems a few "non employees" have obtained copies and it would come in handy at work and home >_<

yeah much easier to just order the part no, interesting to see every part of a skyline in pieces too

http://www.torrentbox.com/torrent_details?id=57362

fyi torrentbox is mostly worksafe

won't be seeding forever so get in quick :)

just some quick info. Any guy that does struts can help you. they will fit just generic no name stuff that will work perfectly.

An old mate of mine used to work for Motorgear. They had a book (cant remember which company it was from) that had most models listed. He said u can use any of the struts out of the book to replace and strut as long as the ends were the same. You just gotta look at the open size, closed size and the strength. I replaced the struts in the tailgate of my old VL wagon with struts suited for a mitsubishi. a little more open length in them so the gate opened higher. :)

Cheers Arep, so my best bet is to find a strut Johnnie & go from there? Was hoping to order a pair & do "homefit" but sounds like a good excuse to do a run to the metropolis, when the fires are out.

Thanks & cheers GW >_<

Cheers Arep, so my best bet is to find a strut Johnnie & go from there? Was hoping to order a pair & do "homefit" but sounds like a good excuse to do a run to the metropolis, when the fires are out.

Thanks & cheers GW :down:

We have several machines at my work that have sound barriers on them. they have lift up doors that are on gas struts. whenever they fail or a new machine is added we get a guy that drives out to fit them. just a 1 man band and he has always done a great job with all the struts he has fitted. The only thing i know of that he hasnt been able to fit struts to is my bonnet!

Hi im after some part numbers for:

front, rear, quarter panel and side window rubber surrounds, pretty much all the rubber that sits around the exterior of the windows.

All for 1992 r32 gtst.

Can FAST look this up???

thanks heaps..

Tone.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...