Fitting The 1000/sec Refresh Attesa To A Bnr32

[GeeTR]

Hey yall,

Been a thought iv had for years, thought it would be worth to throw it out there.

Say im looking for something more from a BNR32, what would be required to get my ATESSA up to scratch. Using a G-force sensor bender is a bit old hat, and doesn’t change the fact the system is clocking 10 times a second.

What do you think is required to get a R34 / 33 system into a BNR32?

Would the diff chassis lengths (hence torque application software) make it not work? Would i need to change transfer cases, or could simple ECU and sensor changes suffice?

Thoughts, opinions flames????

M

[paulr33]

an alternative could be to get a GRID dancer controller or hks ETS controller and upgrade the 4wd clutch packs to make it stronger

you could also look at locking the pump on via a relay interceptor if you have the vspec system (i did this in my gtst)

[GeeTR]

an alternative could be to get a GRID dancer controller or hks ETS controller and upgrade the 4wd clutch packs to make it stronger

you could also look at locking the pump on via a relay interceptor if you have the vspec system (i did this in my gtst)

Yah, unfortunately,

Using a G-force sensor bender is a bit old hat, and doesn’t change the fact the system is clocking 10 times a second.

The ATTESA system as a concept is one that’s used now by most of HiPo manufactures like Porches etc. I don’t want to lock it solid, front to back, nor simply strengthen the clutch packs, Iv never driven a R34 GTR, but am told the system is a lot more progressive and adaptive to wheel spin, and how tight it push’s the packs together. You can watch from footage of quick examples how it effects the attitude of the car (understand the E-diff has a role here, but lets leave that out of the equation for now)

Any other thoughts

[T04GTR]

very do able but you would have to change everthing over to 33 spec. control unit/wiring etc etc

[sav man]

Is the R23 V-Spec II a 1000/sec ecu, or was it just a retuned 100/sec ecu? The probelm I see with a R33/R34 ecu is that they have 10% always going to the front wheels, and if you put one of those ecu's in a R32, it would expext 10% to always be there.

Our Targa car has a HKS Kansai controller, no idea how good it is cause we've never turned it on (came with the car), if anyone has any english instructions i'd appresiate it.

[Brocaine]

Maybe an idea would be one of the Bee-R Attesa controllers? They seem to have a whole stack of functions, but not sure if they refresh any quicker... Anyone know?

[Duncan]

Unless the controller replaces the attessa computer completly it can't refresh quicker. I've never seen the Bee-R ones but the grid and all the locally made ones like ours leave the standard computer in place

[GTS4WD]

Is the R23 V-Spec II a 1000/sec ecu, or was it just a retuned 100/sec ecu? The probelm I see with a R33/R34 ecu is that they have 10% always going to the front wheels, and if you put one of those ecu's in a R32, it would expext 10% to always be there.

Stupid question..

but..

Why?

This does answere MANY MANY questions! I went staggy RB25 + ECU in my GTS4 and.. GUESS WHAT!?!.. 10% all the time..

..ghay..

Any way you cans stop/change it?

[sav man]

I think the trasferbox is designed diferently. As you have to remove the front shaft to dyno R33+, and not just the ecu fuse. well 10% is sfa in the grand sceme of things, i assume it balenced the car a little better, and it would make the attessa feel more responsive. The R32 one can feel a little slow at times.

Did you do the gearbox/trasfur case with the engine and ECU?

[Ronin 09]

i've wondered this as well... 32 ATTESSA is very slow...

[Duncan]

GTS4wd....did you take the stage front diff but keep the gts4 rear diff? if so the different diff ratios would be causing that problem