Jump to content
SAU Community

Fitting The 1000/sec Refresh Attesa To A Bnr32

GeeTR
 Share

Recommended Posts

GeeTR Grand Master

GeeTR

Posted
Posted

Hey yall,

Been a thought iv had for years, thought it would be worth to throw it out there.

Say im looking for something more from a BNR32, what would be required to get my ATESSA up to scratch. Using a G-force sensor bender is a bit old hat, and doesn’t change the fact the system is clocking 10 times a second.

What do you think is required to get a R34 / 33 system into a BNR32?

Would the diff chassis lengths (hence torque application software) make it not work? Would i need to change transfer cases, or could simple ECU and sensor changes suffice?

Thoughts, opinions flames???? :yes:

M

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

an alternative could be to get a GRID dancer controller or hks ETS controller and upgrade the 4wd clutch packs to make it stronger

you could also look at locking the pump on via a relay interceptor if you have the vspec system (i did this in my gtst)

GeeTR Grand Master

GeeTR

Posted
  • Author
Posted
an alternative could be to get a GRID dancer controller or hks ETS controller and upgrade the 4wd clutch packs to make it stronger

you could also look at locking the pump on via a relay interceptor if you have the vspec system (i did this in my gtst)

Yah, unfortunately,

Using a G-force sensor bender is a bit old hat, and doesn’t change the fact the system is clocking 10 times a second.

The ATTESA system as a concept is one that’s used now by most of HiPo manufactures like Porches etc. I don’t want to lock it solid, front to back, nor simply strengthen the clutch packs, Iv never driven a R34 GTR, but am told the system is a lot more progressive and adaptive to wheel spin, and how tight it push’s the packs together. You can watch from footage of quick examples how it effects the attitude of the car (understand the E-diff has a role here, but lets leave that out of the equation for now)

Any other thoughts

sav man Grand Master

sav man

Posted
Posted

Is the R23 V-Spec II a 1000/sec ecu, or was it just a retuned 100/sec ecu? The probelm I see with a R33/R34 ecu is that they have 10% always going to the front wheels, and if you put one of those ecu's in a R32, it would expext 10% to always be there.

Our Targa car has a HKS Kansai controller, no idea how good it is cause we've never turned it on (came with the car), if anyone has any english instructions i'd appresiate it.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

Unless the controller replaces the attessa computer completly it can't refresh quicker. I've never seen the Bee-R ones but the grid and all the locally made ones like ours leave the standard computer in place

GTS4WD Grand Master

GTS4WD

Posted
Posted
Is the R23 V-Spec II a 1000/sec ecu, or was it just a retuned 100/sec ecu? The probelm I see with a R33/R34 ecu is that they have 10% always going to the front wheels, and if you put one of those ecu's in a R32, it would expext 10% to always be there.

Stupid question..

but..

Why?

This does answere MANY MANY questions! I went staggy RB25 + ECU in my GTS4 and.. GUESS WHAT!?!.. 10% all the time..

..ghay..

Any way you cans stop/change it?

sav man Grand Master

sav man

Posted
Posted

I think the trasferbox is designed diferently. As you have to remove the front shaft to dyno R33+, and not just the ecu fuse. well 10% is sfa in the grand sceme of things, i assume it balenced the car a little better, and it would make the attessa feel more responsive. The R32 one can feel a little slow at times.

Did you do the gearbox/trasfur case with the engine and ECU?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jtha7
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • MBS206
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • MBS206
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • GTSBoy
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...