Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys... well I broke my line a couple of weeks ago and it will be out of action for a few months... sooo brilliant I thought, its cold outside I will just sit at home playing 360 for a few weeks, not go out and save some cash for the rebuild... which would have been a great idea had my Xbox not decided to f**king break on me too! so my car is busted and now I can't play Forza Motorsport 2 which I have been waiting to come out for the last 12 months... I need to get my hoon on! Thank the son of rajab for Foxtel otherwise I might be forced to actually speak to my flatmates hehe

so enough rambling, where should I take the 360 to get repaired? Its no longer under warranty, and I'm in Melbourne SE...

ps. its flashing 3 red lights at me when I turn it on and making hideous noises through the amp/speakers... it won't even boot up without a game in there:(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/174409-360-repairs/
Share on other sites

Well truthfully under warranty or not the problem is microsofts fault and is a hardware fault. So they should fix it for free either way. They sent the things out and they have had so many of the exact same problem. The hardware is faulty from factory so should be fixed at no charge. My 2cents. oh and yes i had the same problem, but had the warranty through EBGames so just took it in and got a straight swap on the spot. shame that runs out soon and knowing my luck the same thing will happen a few weeks after it does then send it off to microsoft to get it fixed.....again

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/174409-360-repairs/#findComment-3207093
Share on other sites

That's what you get for f**king up production and rushing to market you mean :domokun:

3 year warranty is nice though..

Apparently if you get a towel or the like and wrap the 360, the heat can cause the dodgy joints to refuse and it may work again. Seemed to have worked for a few people.

Mines fine though, I never seem to have the same problem with electronics other people do? :thumbsup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/174409-360-repairs/#findComment-3220948
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They are under bucket shims. Tomei provides a test shim kit and then any measurement of shim required. 
    • I always wondered how you were supposed to buy a set of 24 buckets and somehow magically have every single one of them yield exactly the desired clearance. I would have thought you'd need to assemble a cam with either 12 "sample" or "example" buckets of known top thickness (or a single such sample/example 12 times over!!) measure clearances at every valve, and then do the usual math to work out what the actual "shimness" of each bucket needed to be, before buying the required buckets to make up he thicknesses that you didn't have on hand.
    • I now seem to be limited in power due to my rev limit/hydraulic lifters in my built RB25. I'm looking into converting over to Tomei solid lifters. Question for anyone that has done the conversion. I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  I don't know where I got this idea, as so far I see no mention of this in any of the Tomei documentation. It just states I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
    • I couldn't agree more. I should have started from the get-go with a NEO or solid bucket conversion. I started looking into converting over to solid lifters yesterday. Now for some reason I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  But I see no mention of this on any of the Tomei documentation. It just states that I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
    • BRUH, one of the biggest mistakes of my life..... and i've had plenty ;[)
×
×
  • Create New...