Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I want to learn the basics of remapping a car. I have an r32 GTST. What hardware/software do I need to buy to to remap my ecu.

I really want to have a play and learn more about my car.

I have a friend that is experianced in tuning some other type of cars that will give me a hand.

And before you say dont do it you will blow it up,, I really dont care if i destroy the thing its a toy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175035-tuning-my-ownecu/
Share on other sites

Mate there is nothing game about it, you will need an eprom burner, and datascan. A consult also helps. If you can get a wideband a/f meter it also helps, but as long as your car doesnt have any problems(such as fuel pump) then its not absolutely necessary. My first remap was on my Z32 tt. The A/F ratios are calculated in the numbers you enter into the appropriate rom addresses. We entered 12:1 afr for the full power load cells, and took it to a dyno day- result exactly 12:1 afr under load. There are a few programs out there, and many of them are freeware.

The A/F ratios are calculated in the numbers you enter into the appropriate rom addresses. We entered 12:1 afr for the full power load cells, and took it to a dyno day- result exactly 12:1 afr under load. There are a few programs out there, and many of them are freeware.

You sure about that? I'd definitely invest in a wideband O2 sensor for tuning and make sure you hook up some sort of knock detection as well.

You sure about that? I'd definitely invest in a wideband O2 sensor for tuning and make sure you hook up some sort of knock detection as well.

Yep, sure. If your running a stock AFM and injectors, then the cells for load are entered as the hex value of the afr you want to run, but would definately agree about the wide band. Knock can be monitored by consult.

But stock afm/injectors are almost 20 years old now, surely it'd be risky to think they are still working the same as when they came out the factory?

He ran it on a dyno and verified the result, so there's no much room for doubt.

Knock can be monitored by consult.

I have a consult interface and have datascan and ecutalk - neither of which show knock. Do you know of any consult software that has knock reading? Datascan can monitor arbitrary memory locations, so i assume if i knew the location i could read the sensors output...

But stock afm/injectors are almost 20 years old now, surely it'd be risky to think they are still working the same as when they came out the factory?

Everyone who drives these cars assumes they are still working the same, the factory doesnt tune the management to allow for things wearing out. Injectors and AFM tend to fail rather than lose performance, the only exception is injectors which if never cleaned can become dirty(although with modern fuels it doesnt tend to be a problem, there are plenty of cars with 300000k's with the original injectors.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...