Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey i recently had a GT35/40 turbo on my rb25 but it had a .63 ex housing when i bought it, well that was abit responsive and not ideal for the power range im after, so it is now sold.......... my issue now is im not sure whether to buy another GT35/40 turbo with a larger ex housing OR use a T04Z with similar size ex housings.....anyone no which would be a better choice???? Power output im chasing is 450hp at wheels, lag could be an issue, so thats why im asking for any opinnions.... cheers guys.. 35/40 or T04Z????? oh n i forgot to mention, its a t3 flange at the moment but am changing that to t4 at present so both turbo choices will be used in conjunction with a T4 flange

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175853-turbo-choice/
Share on other sites

I'll help you see the silly.

T04z - upto 450rwkw.

So if you only want 330rwkw, then its not smart to go a big huffer like the t04z.

The GT35 is far better suited to that range and will be more responsive and feel a truck load better for only 330rwkw.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175853-turbo-choice/#findComment-3220471
Share on other sites

gt3540 82 rear on a top mount manifold well designed ie: 6boost, external gate, and 19psi roughly? :dry: As sugested much much better than the T04z.

1+ the T04Z prefers 24psi and upwards of boost where as the 3540 will spool earlier and less boost to make better power? as far as i can gather

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175853-turbo-choice/#findComment-3220596
Share on other sites

What he forgot to mention is the engine is about 2.7L... If that changes which turbo to go for or not I dont know. But its handy to have some specs on the engine.

how does rb26 crank and rods = 2.7L?!?

i would definately go the gt3540r, supports your aimed power output with better response and also suits your engine build better, t04z is too big and i would imagine you would start breaking internals :rolleyes:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175853-turbo-choice/#findComment-3221383
Share on other sites

na its 2.6 not 2.7...cheers nismoid, your a legend.. the .63 ex housing on my previous 35/40 would start to make boost at 2800rpm, im looking for one that comes on song about 4000rpm.. give or take. but ideally if the target hp (450hp) is reached then i'm happy either way... next is the fact the manifold has a t3 flange, with previous turbo (.63 ex housing) the housing and manifold and top of dump pipe would glow red at cruise on dyno, not even giving it a power run, was thinking maybe the t3 flange is abit restrictive so enlarging to t4 flange might have to be the go this time round also.????????????

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175853-turbo-choice/#findComment-3221976
Share on other sites

um not on cruise they dont, when i told the tuner he stopped n let car idle till things stopped glowing, wasn't even boosting it, my mates hi mount turbo sr20 that was there with me only glowed once they did some full power runs

Yes they do champ. At cruise the AFR's are considerably leaner and as such, make for much hotter exhaust gasses. Your manifold is more likely to glow like that at part throttle and cruising than under medium to full load.

Fact.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175853-turbo-choice/#findComment-3222304
Share on other sites

ok, my bad, its just that i thought of it this way........ with power comes heat, for example lets say we have a car that makes 400hp flat out, and to keep it simple maths we'll say it uses 100hp at cruise which is only a 1/4 of its potential hence internal combustion temps not being that hot so i didnt think the manifold would glow however at full noise your using 400hp its now making 4 times the power and your internal combustion temps have gone through the roof hence exhaust metals changing colour. this is the way i thought it was, regardless of mixtures being lean or rich, at the end of the day if your cruising you wouldnt think the internal temps would get hi enough to glow manifold unless there was a build up of....back pressure due to t3 flange or .63 ex housing?? now i may be wrong but i dont remember seeing cars exhaust glowing on cruise unless there was a restriction....???????? make any sense?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175853-turbo-choice/#findComment-3225754
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
×
×
  • Create New...