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4wd Relay Clicking At Idle

wolverine
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giant Mentor

giant

Posted
Posted

they have a pressure switch to tell the pump when to start pumping pressure again, because there is always a certain amount of pressure kept in an accumulator. the switch maybe faulty

have you tried just leaving the ignition on/engine off and see if the relay keeps clicking??

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S1_C34
S1_C34

My ATESSA relay was clicking every few seconds. Did a bunch of research, settled on it being the accumulator. 1997 25x model. 80k km's. My current daily. Followed this guide: https://www.gtr

keysersoze
keysersoze

got new accumulator swapped in and the relay clicking has been resolved. thanks for all previous posts and peoples help.

DaveB
DaveB

Problem solved! So here's the solution if you have this clicking relay problem (and it is because of the "flat" accumulator - probably is though): - with engine/ignition off, open hydraulic bleeder

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DaveB Mentor

DaveB

Posted
Posted (edited)

Interesting thread... I have a S2 with a similar problem... only when engine running, and only at idle, about every 5-10 seconds, coming from somewhere behind the steering wheel/under the bonnet maybe I hear a dull 'clunk' like a mechanical switch sound. It's really weird. I thought maybe low fluid level in ATTESA reservoir?

I have seen my 4WD light come on once. I pulled over & turned ignition off, then started it again and it went out & haven't seen it since...

Edited by DaveB
DaveB Mentor

DaveB

Posted
Posted
i also had this problem on my s1 coming from behind the glove box. my car had waranty so it was repaired for free. im going back to the auto sparky so will ask what the problem was

Hey Jerome did you find out what the problem was/how they fixed it?

DaveB Mentor

DaveB

Posted
Posted
the clicking is gone after changing the rear tyres and changing ride heights slightly.

wheel/tyre diameter change the cause of the clicking idle??

Interesting. Though I have stock wheels and brand new tyres in stock profile (205/55/R16) fitted at compliance ("Antyre").

Although it seems to only start after car has warmed up...

I ran the diagnostic as mentioned here by chook:

Have you all tried the attessa diagnostic ? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/4w...=4wd+diagnostic

and got fault code 77 - attesa pressure switch. Even after successfully resetting the fault codes, and starting the car and letting it idle for a couple of minutes, the fault code reappeared.

Anybody know where this infernal pressure switch is located???

mr manfringinsen Contributor

mr manfringinsen

Posted
Posted

I have no idea where the pressure switch is but I would recommend bleeding the system. I got the info on how to do it from some other threads but the jist is to jack the car up, get the ignition on to get the atessa pump running, bleed the air through the nipples above the rear diff, and and the rear of the transfer case from memory. Viola no more 4WD light coming on. I did this because on a hot day I could give the car bootful coming out of an uphill hairpin which guaranteed the Atessa system would kick in. (Under controlled conditions on a closed course of course). By the time I got to the top of the hill the light would be on. Bleeding the system stopped this from happening. The fluid to use to keep the reservoir topped up as you bleed is the same synthetic ATF as the auto.

My relay ticks every 15seconds when idling on my S1.

DaveB Mentor

DaveB

Posted
Posted
I have no idea where the pressure switch is but I would recommend bleeding the system. I got the info on how to do it from some other threads but the jist is to jack the car up, get the ignition on to get the atessa pump running, bleed the air through the nipples above the rear diff, and and the rear of the transfer case from memory. Viola no more 4WD light coming on. I did this because on a hot day I could give the car bootful coming out of an uphill hairpin which guaranteed the Atessa system would kick in. (Under controlled conditions on a closed course of course). By the time I got to the top of the hill the light would be on. Bleeding the system stopped this from happening. The fluid to use to keep the reservoir topped up as you bleed is the same synthetic ATF as the auto.

My relay ticks every 15seconds when idling on my S1.

Thanks yeah might have to try bleeding it. Castrol Transmax Z in gearbox/attesa/power steering right?

mr manfringinsen Contributor

mr manfringinsen

Posted
Posted
Thanks yeah might have to try bleeding it. Castrol Transmax Z in gearbox/attesa/power steering right?

Transmax Z sounds familiar. There are a number of threads on this and again it seems to come down to personal preference. I used Penrite ATF synthetic.

The summary.pdf specifies Nissanmatic fluid D and I believe this is available and reasonably priced from Nissan dealers ie $60 for 4 litres.

The files are for an R32 GTR but it should lead you in the right direction.

summary.pdf

bleed.pdf

troubleshooting.pdf

wiring.pdf

DaveB Mentor

DaveB

Posted
Posted
Transmax Z sounds familiar. There are a number of threads on this and again it seems to come down to personal preference. I used Penrite ATF synthetic.

The summary.pdf specifies Nissanmatic fluid D and I believe this is available and reasonably priced from Nissan dealers ie $60 for 4 litres.

The files are for an R32 GTR but it should lead you in the right direction.

Cool, thanks for that - good info :) $60 for 4 litres... Transmax Z was ~$70 for 4 litres from my local store; pretty close in price I guess. Reasonable price for a dealer though lol

wolverine Grand Master

wolverine

Posted
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Posted

drove back from bathurst and the click is back again and so are a massive pack of poor drivers with a sense of entitlement to the right lane and probably the same group of drivers that drive 10-15km/h below the speed limit until there are two lanes and then you all know what they do next....

DaveB Mentor

DaveB

Posted
Posted
drove back from bathurst and the click is back again and so are a massive pack of poor drivers with a sense of entitlement to the right lane and probably the same group of drivers that drive 10-15km/h below the speed limit until there are two lanes and then you all know what they do next....

:laughing-smiley-014:

Same here in a little road trip back from Pt Pirie only difference is my clicking is not back again - it just never went away :thumbsup:

ceedub Community Regular

ceedub

Posted
Posted

Check your battery and the +ve cable and connectors coming off it. I found I had a similar issue on my GTR where the connectors on the positive terminal were corroding. Once I cleaned them up clicking went away.

DaveB Mentor

DaveB

Posted
Posted
Check your battery and the +ve cable and connectors coming off it. I found I had a similar issue on my GTR where the connectors on the positive terminal were corroding. Once I cleaned them up clicking went away.

Thanks ceedub - i'm gonna check that out, I have cleaned up the main terminals already but I'll check the things plugged into them.

DaveB Mentor

DaveB

Posted
Posted

Hmm thought to check the attesa reservoir after a drive, with engine still running, and it was just a little bit below the min.

Sooo I got some ATF (which the guy assured me was a direct substitute for Transmax Z, which I couldn't find in 1-litre containers, and I didn't want to pay $75) and topped it up. Top layer is a different colour now lol

Seems to have had a positive effect; clicking is down to every 30 seconds or thereabouts usually, sometimes a little more frequent, but never more often than 15-20. Is this normal?

I plan to bleed it in the nearish future (perhaps for 100,000K service) and check battery terminal connections (the auxiliary connections to the terminals, not the terminals themselves - thanks ceedub).

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

and check the earths as well. there are a couple around the car including one between the chasis and the rear subframe (attessa pump sits on the diff). you need good earth as well as power

DaveB Mentor

DaveB

Posted
Posted
and check the earths as well. there are a couple around the car including one between the chasis and the rear subframe (attessa pump sits on the diff). you need good earth as well as power

Thanks, will do :) So there is an earth connection from attesa pump -> chassis; can you remember off-hand where any other earth connections are that I should check for the attesa circuit?

DaveB Mentor

DaveB

Posted
Posted
they have a pressure switch to tell the pump when to start pumping pressure again, because there is always a certain amount of pressure kept in an accumulator. the switch maybe faulty

have you tried just leaving the ignition on/engine off and see if the relay keeps clicking??

the relay only clicks with the engine running.

Just thought guys, if the above is the case, does this suggest that it's more likely, or less likely that it's the pressure switch? ie. what is the significance of the relay only clicking with the engine running?

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

the earth goes from the chassis to subframe, opposite side to the exahust from memory. But now I think about ti the attessa pump has rubber mounts so it can't be earthed to the subframe - it must be earthed via it's plug loom

DaveB Mentor

DaveB

Posted
Posted (edited)

Thanks Duncan, I'll check it out. btw reading the info here - http://tyndago.googlepages.com/gt-rbleedingattesasystem - I discovered that there should be a connector under the driver's side dash somewhere to assist with bleeding the attesa system. All you need is ignition (engine not running), you disconnect the jumper and it starts the pump in a constant pressure mode... I think I have found this connector, it's sort-of on the firewall, behind the driver's kick panel. I might have a go at bleeding the system as soon as I have finished the wheel swap, seat removal/carpet scrub and interior change from woodgrain to silver etc... so in a few days

edit: it's called the 'air bleed connector', and appears in the second picture at that link

Edited by DaveB

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