Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yes nissan recommend "nissan special power steering fluid" no surprise there.

I have been running Castrol Syntrax ATF in my xfer case, power steering and attessa pump for years without causing problems.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
the update is.... it looks to be the accumulator... lol

so will be replaced after auto salon..

The accumulator... interesting! So is that not part of the actuator motor that you just had replaced? Are you guessing that because it's the last thing left? :D

Very interesting... since a few of us have error code 77 (pressure sensor), that would add up. Please keep us posted :)

the accumulator? where and what is an accumulator (other than a device that accumulates).

not sure exactly but it works very closely with the pressure switch.. they have to drop the sub frame to get to it.. fun..

is booked in for the last week of july they are going to replace it with a good secondhand one to see if that finally fixes my problem... if it does i get a brand new one... THANKS DVG.... pfft

gee, that does sound like fun... sounds like they're gonna fix it one way or another though...

they have a pressure switch to tell the pump when to start pumping pressure again, because there is always a certain amount of pressure kept in an accumulator. the switch maybe faulty

/\ reference by someone else to the accumulator... best description of it I have. I don't have access to FAST at the moment but I remember the picture of the ATTESA assembly showing the pressure switch as an apparently integral part of the accumulator (kinda a storage reservoir like on the inlet manifold but stores positive pressure I guess, so that the pump doesn't have to work full-time) which in turn seemed to be an integral part of the pump assembly itself... will try to get hold of FAST and that diagram. But yeah, looked hard to replace... probably would have to drop the diff at least (bolted to the top of the diff' I think Duncan said).

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Updates and info would be much appreciated!

I'm having the same issue with my R33 GTR Vspec (only picked it up about 10 days ago from compliance); ticking noise in rear of boot approx every 20-30 seconds or so. No "4WD" warning light on dashboard, the front wheels seem to kick in when they're meant to.

From what I've read on SAU, gtroc and a few other places, there are some usual suspects to look at:

  • HICAS relay
  • ATTESA relay – hydraulic system for 4WD
    • Bleed attesa fluid
    • Check pressure switch
    • E-TS/LSD actuator motor
    • Pressure accumulator

I think the attesa on vspec gtrs is a bit different to the ones on stageas (due to the LSD?), but even so any more info can help narrow down this little annoyance!

Tim

Updates and info would be much appreciated!

I'm having the same issue with my R33 GTR Vspec (only picked it up about 10 days ago from compliance); ticking noise in rear of boot approx every 20-30 seconds or so. No "4WD" warning light on dashboard, the front wheels seem to kick in when they're meant to.

From what I've read on SAU, gtroc and a few other places, there are some usual suspects to look at:

  • HICAS relay
  • ATTESA relay – hydraulic system for 4WD
    • Bleed attesa fluid
    • Check pressure switch
    • E-TS/LSD actuator motor
    • Pressure accumulator

I think the attesa on vspec gtrs is a bit different to the ones on stageas (due to the LSD?), but even so any more info can help narrow down this little annoyance!

Tim

Hey Tim have you tried an ATTESA diagnostic? The pins to short are around somewhere on this forum... when I ran it it was consistently reporting fault code 77, which is pressure switch. I'm guessing that's the problem in 90% of these cases... if it was the relay, ATTESA wouldn't work at all.

  • 1 month later...

any updates?

my relay is ticking too, but mine has slightly different symptom- power flickers when it clicks ie headlights, dash lights, radio all loose power for a split second

any updates?

my relay is ticking too, but mine has slightly different symptom- power flickers when it clicks ie headlights, dash lights, radio all loose power for a split second

I see exactly the same thing; I think the power drops are just because it draws so much current (the attesa pump that it's switching on/off seems to cause a voltage drop as it's turned on). Lights flash dim for a very brief second; have to be watching to notice.

I see exactly the same thing; I think the power drops are just because it draws so much current (the attesa pump that it's switching on/off seems to cause a voltage drop as it's turned on). Lights flash dim for a very brief second; have to be watching to notice.

Same with mine, it drives me crazy!

Around the same time my relay started to click my 4WD light started to come on frequently. I took it to RE Customs and they bleed the Attesa system, put new fluid in and tried another relay from another Stagea which didn't have a clicking relay and that relay clicked aswell.

Bleeding the Attessa system seemed to resolve the 4WD light problem for a short while but eventually came back. After doing a scan on the car a TPS error code was pulled from the ECU, after repositioning the TPS the 4WD problem has ceased but the relay still clicks every now and then.

  • 1 month later...
  • 4 months later...

omg i am so so sorry not long after i got it all fixed i lost my licence... so in order not to be tempted i havent even looked at the forums

she is alll fixed they replaced the accumulator and she clicks every now and again but not every 2 damn secs.......

was a costly repair as they had to dismantle the sub frame just to get to it all and a ruff price on the part was about 1600.00 staff price for me from nissan in ossy park.... so trade prie would have been more IM SO GLAD IT GOT DONE UNDER WARRANTY!!!!!!!! THANKS DVG.............

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...