Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

S12 gazelle notchback with IRS. $2000

CA18DET engine with loom computer + clutch $900

after conversion wind the boost up to 12 psi and you have a 130rwkw 900kg drifter that will be a lot of fun.

I have driven quite a few s12's and they are not a bad car.

just a shame the CA20E is only good as a paperweight..

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

for daily, you'd better hope you daily go to a workshop.

just like any bitsamissing from the late 80's to early 90's, they are an expensive adventure..

Yes they have power steering..

and the steering is too light..

There seems to be a small following (as with any car I guess) in japan..

you can find some pretty good looking ones.

but it's a money pit.

see if you can find one with a 4g63 conversion.. but then again, that will be over $10K..

if you want a daily driver/drifter you'd best stick to an S13.

Typical responses from people that know everything but have never owned a STARION!

The standard Australian delivery Mit Starion has a 4G63BT that is near unbreakable!

I am not even going to bother saying much more except I am selling my Skyline but I will NEVER sell my Starion!

Dean,

www.austarion.com has plenty of info about Starions with a healthy forum. I agree that Starions do have their pitfalls (as do most cars of that era). However, with the right advice, these can be overcome and not necesarily be too costly. As with most manfacturers new parts are expensive, but good used parts can still be found if you shop smart. Alot of the electrical/efi issues can be repaired/relaced by going to the MPI + aftermarket ecu set up which replaces the throttlebody + two injector factory "electronic carby".

I can recommend a good mechanic or two in Vic who know Starions inside out and whole also have one or two clean examples for sale.

Btw, this is my rare JDM widebody Starion:

post-4183-1184229264_thumb.jpg

post-4183-1184229273_thumb.jpg

As said up the thread the Aus spec JA (bonnet scoop) and JD (no bonnet scoop but with LSD) Starions had the 4G63, single turbo, TB injection, pwr steer (light), AC, elec glass, leather front seats, 5 sp man, etc.

For their time good strut susp with good solid wishbones, reasonable brakes, styling was a matter of opinion. From memory about 125kw std, 1240kg(?)

The 4G63 was good for about 360hp before rods (?) got a bit sad. Original spare parts were exxy. They take an Astron 2.6 conversion easily.

Some of the guys punted them in the production class on the track and they performed well.

I pushed one around for a while with bigger turbo, aux inj, crude eng mgt, intercooler, big brakes and 16" Simmons and it was good for nearly 180rwkw and a heap of fun to drive (if a bit peaky) and there wasn't much around then (mid 80s) that would touch it.

Actually miss the old girl at times.

I don't know how you would go these days getting one in any reasonable condition for the $ you're talking. Hell a replacement tubo will cost you more than half that.

Lots of luck though.

I agree, for $3K, you won't get much. However, if you look around enough, you can find ones that have had alot of $$ spent on them to rectify the old "eci" issues with MPI and ECU upgrades. Ie, find someone who has already doen the hahrd work and buy theirs :D

Can someone explain to me what the MPI and ECU upgrades are exactly??? What does MPI stand for?????

Whats it cost to roughly get that stuff done anyway? Please let me know, cos ive pretty much bought one........

The Mitsubishi G63B 2L SOHC engine in the Starion uses a throttlebody injection set up that consists of two injectors mounted inside a petrol chamber. This is fed fuel which fills the chamber and the two injectors then inject and spray the fuel into the head. Its an "electronic carbie" and is not ideal, with a few problems that develop over time. It can still be used effectively, especially if you do not want to go to the expense of multi point injection (MPI) as this means that an aftermarket ECU needs to be fitted to control the fuelling of the MPI's 4 injectors.

The two bolt on options for MPI are a 1987-95 Mistsu L300/Starwagon 2.4L G64B intake manifold which doesnt require any mods, or a Hyundai Sonata MPI manifold, which requires a few mods to work as it will face the firewall. Most who do these mods usually also add an intercooler at the same time to amalgamate efficient cost savings in manufacturing the piping and also tuning in the one go.

Having said this, going to MPI is not necessary, but most people do it as both a power upgrade and also as a means of getting rid of the troublesome fatory ECI.

Which car are you buying, Dean?

ok guys i checked out the starion.. was a joke.

Supposedly had a rebuilt motor & gearbox and oh guess what?? No receipts.. hmm guess he lost em?

-Before i had gotten there, the guy had, had the car running for a while so that it runs.. barely.

-Took the car for a 2 minute drive, once back the rocker cover was a pool of oil.

-Power steering rack was drenched in fluid. Apparently he topped it up every 1-2 weeks & admitted he had gotten

quotes of no less than $1,200 to fix it cos parts were so rare/expensive.

-Interior was a joke, driver seat was all torn, plastics missing everywhere, wires hanging from everywhere.

-Car honestly had no more than 40 rear wheel kw's. He showed me a dyno sheet from NT performance showing 82.6kws!,

LMAO this car was honestly slower than a n/a 200b datsun that had just finished being thrashed & overheated on a farm.

-Sunroof was aftermarket, not genuine, hence leaking.

Honestly this car was a MASSIVE turn off on the starion. Im not going to bother looking at another one again.

Can someone please find me a worked Gazelle any other small rwd, RELIABLE manual drifter!?

KE70 corolla perhaps?

4AC engine is supposedly a bit gutless, but you should be able to pick one up for around 2k if you look, and then factor in 1k to throw a 4AGE into it...

R31 out of the question? very cheap to buy, plenty of grunt, and S13 parts (suspension/brakes) bolt straight on, so cheap and plentiful aftermarket support, aswell as VL turbo parts for massive power-ups

but if u want the small lightweight thing, then definately keep it toyota as mentioned above ^

Edited by VB-

A starion turbo was my First car, i bought it almost 6 years ago.

To this date, I cant stress what a great car it was, and what a great car they are. It rarely gave me trouble and I thrashed the hell outta it, I was a year 10 student at the time so I couldnt afford anything else. Imports were few and far between and extremely expensive back then. I had it for two years!!

Ive had quite a few imports, and even still, i have to rate Starions as one of my favourite.

The sad thing is, 90 percent of starions left, are all neglected, bodged up and tired. In melbourne ive noticed this anyways.

They have so much to offer that most cars built in the 80s hadnt heard of - and there rare.

Everyone these days are going the skyline, silvia, R31, Corolla for slide cars - what about something a bit left wing! Dont be put off because you seen a hack, theres many types of the abovementioned cars that ive seen that are in similar condition. The single cam motors are strong, the turbos are good if they are looked after, good oil, a seal kit etc.

In a few years I will buy a widebody Starion to Restore from the ground up, they are the Forgotten Classic Japanese sports car.

It puts a smile on my face every time I see one out and Im glad that there are people out there that value the old Japanese classics.

Edited by Starionturbo

4AGZE datto or corolla FTW! Loved the 4AGZE I had, genie extractors, 2.5 inch exhuast and a pod filter and it was beating VR/VS SS manual commodores in an AE82 heavy as SECA! Awesome little build that would be and the engine is so powerful and responsive, way more impressive than my RB20 lol.

Liam

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Gday Thought it was about time I started a build thread! As expected this project has snowballed into a huge financial liability, but unless you’re strong willed and responsible, it’s not a surprise. Background -  My first turbo car was an R32 GTS-4, got my full license and then totalled my Au Falcon a week later, so while trying to sell my RMZ450 dirtbike to buy another car a bloke offered to swap the R32 which at the time I felt like I was ripped off but looking back and seeing prices of those now ($40kish) it was a good deal, I didn’t know enough about these cars to appreciate what I had so sold it before the RB20 blew up. Between here and there, out of 12 cars I’ve owned the note worthy ones are a V8 Lexus SC400 (soarer), a couple of XR6 Turbos and my beloved S15 which I had for about 3 years, picked it up for $12500, repairable write off but she was fine, gun metal grey/pewter and bone stock/unmolested until I got my hands on it. Ended up spending about the value of the car and 280kw, 2 demerit points by the time I got defected and sold it for $14500 (also $40kish in today’s market, rip) Fast forward to the present day, I’m in a much better position financially and daily an MQ Triton (great cars, pipe down Ranger Bois), I cruised marketplace and car sales for a few months looking for another R32, the best deal I could find was an absolute rust bucket half finished project for $12000, until this R33 popped up in Port Macquarie for $18k - unregistered and barely running but decent shape, kept an eye on it for a few weeks and the price steadily dropped, $16k then $15k then $14k, that was the point where I was like shit someone’s gonna snatch this up! It was owned by a young bloke who had big plans but him and his missus just had a baby so smartest move financially for them but big gain for me. So 2 days later I’m towing a car trailer to pick this thing up. Roughly 2 weeks and $3500 later I’m cruising around Newcastle in my beat up R33 all smiles and dose noises! It only needed some basic shit to get it going, coil packs and air flow meter, electrical stuff and all fluids changed, 158k kms and running pretty good, nice smooth engine after oil and coolant flush - when I say coolant I mean it had been filled up with tap water, every gallery and heater element was filled with rust, 8-9 flushes later and still had brown liquid coming out but she’ll be right. The car was painted R34 Bayside Blue at some point but whether it was a cheap job or just not looked after is anyone’s guess, clear coat flaking like sausage roll.  Was rethinking my choices and contemplating life, had it up for sale for $22k - still cheaper than any registered R33 but got little interest, next minute I had an opportunity at work - 6 months overseas for good money, so that was a no brainer, fast forward again and here we are with a 50% finished project. Current Mods - 200ish KW according to butt dyno Was tuned with Apexi PowerFC EBC (old school Greddy Profec)  Stock turbo (more shaft play than a Tinder date gone right) 3inch turbo back Varex muffler  Aftermarket injectors of mystery size, Power FC showed 36% duty cycle at full boost so not behd good size Someone had good intentions but stuck with the stock R33 MAF so we had misfires at 6000rpm due to the MAF hitting 5.2V So far I’ve redone the entire interior with carpet form Car Mats Direct, new Seats and steering wheel from Autotechnica, also sound system by Autobarn (mainly Kicker) Also MCA pro comfort coil overs - Hands down best purchase yet, worlds of improvement over the tired 30yrold shocks Goals - 450kw/600hp on flex tune New paint job - Midnight Purple 2 Engine is at the shop getting rebuilt with forged rods a pistons, new valves and springs, ATI Harmonic balancer, Aeroflow 7.5L sump, rear head drain and oil restrictors as per oil control thread* and cam covers modded for larger breathers, other stuff I can’t recall of the top of my head Parts purchased and to be installed once the engine is done -  Engine loom from Wiring Specialties including these options: Haltech Nexus S3 R35 Coil pack conversion  PRP Dual Trigger kit Fan controller  Other Parts -  262 Kelford Cams Turbo - Hypergear ATR43SS3-ProS with T51R mod (whistly boi) 6 boost manifold (high mount) 50mm Turbosmart Pro gate (plumbed back for legal reasons) HKS Super Turbo Exhaust with High Flow Cat Custom 3.5inch dump and front pipe 1500cc Bosch injectors  Fuel Pump walbro 525 Haltech MAP and IAT sensors Haltech Flex Sensor Fenix Radiator with dual thermo fans LS1 Alternator Kit Oil Filter Relocation from EFI solutions and Cooling pro oil cooler Many other things sitting in my garage waiting for that engine to come back. Progress pics to follow -  
    • Losses have to be less with DC coupling. Provided the battery inverter has decent MPP tracking ability - which really shouldn't be a problem. It's not 2005 any more.
    • Hi, Will the R33 GTR rear brake backing plates fit a GTST? I'm struggling to find GTST ones but can find new GTR ones.   Thanks.
    • I also got the same floor mats for a bit of extra bazzaz haha
    • Some more close up pics now that I’m back to working on the car, the loop pile is nice but again haven’t compared it to the other types in person, it’s hard to tell from the pics on the website. View of the hemming on the edges too, it comes in 2 pieces - front and back, honestly very happy with it for anyone on the fence.  Also attached my previous pics from further up as it didn’t let me post them directly before. (Nothing worse than photo bucket pics that aren’t hosted anymore years later)
×
×
  • Create New...