Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Chasing more power with my car.

Have decided on everything except the turbo.

Options are to hi-flow the turbo, or to get a new turbo that will be a DIRECT BOLT ON REPLACEMENT for the car.

Chasing around 300rwkw.

Do not want a massive turbo that will increase lag. Want a very responsive turbo...but one that doesn't drop off in boost near the top of the rev range.

So...which turbo will be a direct bolt on and fit my requirements?

It is for a engine with stock internals.

And one more question....if i get a turbo with a external wastegate, how much extra am i looking to spend? I would like one to be internally gated if possible.

Please recommend me some good turbos and rough price.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176342-which-turbo/
Share on other sites

if your chasing a turbo for 300rwk and minimal lag, you gotta go for something alot bigger than a hiflow. set yourself a realistic goal and go for 260 rwk. that youl do on a hiflow and still retain minimal lag, and a longer engine life with stock internals :)

good luck

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176342-which-turbo/#findComment-3226429
Share on other sites

There is no such thing, i would recommend reading the rb25 dyno results thread at the top of the page, or do a search, as posting a new question all the time that has been answered many times before will not win you any friends

I have searched but in the posts it doesn't say if it was a direct bolt on :)

But i know what u mean...

if your chasing a turbo for 300rwk and minimal lag, you gotta go for something alot bigger than a hiflow. set yourself a realistic goal and go for 260 rwk. that youl do on a hiflow and still retain minimal lag, and a longer engine life with stock internals :)

good luck

Which turbo do you mean by bigger? And thats why i am deciding on going a replacement turbo.

I think the GT35 is ok, but as i said...dunno if it is a direct replacement.

Edited by Fujiwara
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176342-which-turbo/#findComment-3226433
Share on other sites

Pretty much covered in your other thread dude.

Good response/power can be had with 260rwkw and thats a hi-flow or HKS GT-RS or similar other brand names. Then you gotta step up frame of turbo etc.

Thats increased lag and so on for more power.

As we covered in the other thread aswell, 300rwkw is pushing the stock motor as it is.

Anything around the 300rwkw mark generally means it not bolt on either as you cant make massive power out of a peep-hole turbo, your forced to get a decent sized one.

A GT35 is well above 300rwkw aswell, closer to 330-350rwkw range and is most certainly not bolt on

Not trying to sound rude, but the other thread had a lot of useful info you dont seem to have taken onboard

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176342-which-turbo/#findComment-3226501
Share on other sites

Talk to Slide here on the forums about a turbo, I love his highflow :thumbsup::P:)

fkn awesome turbo.

whats the deal with 300rwkw with everyone these days ?? cant use it on the road so tell me JUST what is the point ?

240rwkw is just fine, surely, with a nice highflow at 1.1bar, piggyback ecus, fpr, z32, zuast and air, cam gears etc.

get a bit of boost into it and you're already over the legal speed limit.

want a bit more then add some cams, injectors, full replacement ecu etc :)

no point in going overboard...... its just a car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176342-which-turbo/#findComment-3226860
Share on other sites

no chance of a direct bolt on 300rwkw. well you could do it, but it wont be a nice set-up.

if you want 300rwkw bear in mind you need a lot of other bits too.

decent front mount (not cheap rubbish ones)

550cc injectors or bigger

high volume fuel pump

bigger afm is advisable too

strong clutch

good tyres

good brakes

and this is just the basics, there are lots of other desirable bits to have too with that kind of power.

but if it were me, and I wanted a 300rwkw R34 GTT I would get:

HKS 3037S 0.73 A/R

HKS GT-II 60mm wastegate

custom steampipe manifold (6boost ones are very nice)

that will give you 300rwkw and be on 1.5 bar boost around 4000rpm.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176342-which-turbo/#findComment-3226901
Share on other sites

if theres anything that ive learned, its that a quick street car doesnt have to have huge max power, but rather good, average power. Therefore, on the street a 250rwk gts-t with a highflow, or a GTRS or something similar is going to be more responsive than a laggy 300rwk equivalent. Your not going to use 300rws on the street. I say for the street, even the basic mods with standard turbo, such as ECU, exhuast, 12psi of boost and a good intercooler is enough. If anything dont compromise response for max power. :rant:

Edited by moonus
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176342-which-turbo/#findComment-3227785
Share on other sites

Like what nismoid said, 300rwkw on the RB25DET is really pushing it. I'm also looking at upgrading the stock turbo. From what i gather, 300rwkw is pretty much more suited for hardcore track racing, if you're using it on the streets majority of the time, i would get something responsive eg. HKS Gtrs , 2835, etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176342-which-turbo/#findComment-3228595
Share on other sites

I can tell you a 3037s 0.73 AR on a RB25 Neo is not laggy at all. I reckon it's the gun choice for a stock engine RB25.

I agree, even the .82 isnt too bad lag wise mine made 303rwkw at 18psi and is not noticeably worse on response than the Apexi AX53B70 I had

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176342-which-turbo/#findComment-3228605
Share on other sites

1.a new turbo that will be a DIRECT BOLT ON REPLACEMENT for the car.

2.Chasing around 300rwkw.

3.Do not want a massive turbo that will increase lag.

4.Want a very responsive turbo

5.one that doesn't drop off in boost near the top of the rev range.

hahahahah!

1 and 2 cancel each other out.

2 contradicts 3

4 cancels out 5

That would be the perfect turbo. I mean, it has it all. Early boost, no lag, big power right to past redline.

I'll take 6 if you can find one...I don't even care how much they are.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176342-which-turbo/#findComment-3228620
Share on other sites

I still reckon from how my GT3076R drives that a bolt on GT3037 from HKS will meet most of those requirements. They will pull hard to redline, have excellent response, make good power, and have an awesome midrange whack.

If I did it all again, I'd not go smaller than a GT2835/GT3071R but not go bigger than a .82a/r GT3076R.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176342-which-turbo/#findComment-3229120
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...