Jump to content
SAU Community

34 GTR  

74 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

hard to say really, Black has all good engine block adv, but standard looks and rather crappy looking wheels.

White has all the asthetically pleasing details like the nismo kit and the Z tune front bar and the god almighty sexy CE28s.

if only you can mix them together.

edit: on second look, seems the black does have full nismo kit, just cna't see the it well because its black....definitely go for the white.

It's a tough choice man, they both have their good points. One thing is I can't see any Z tune parts on either car? The both have the same bodykit, so either they both have it, or neither does. The front bars might be nismo but I don't think they are Z-tune.

I would probably do the white one, it has some nice bits, but the black one is good too. very tough choice.

It's a tough choice man, they both have their good points. One thing is I can't see any Z tune parts on either car? The both have the same bodykit, so either they both have it, or neither does. The front bars might be nismo but I don't think they are Z-tune.

I would probably do the white one, it has some nice bits, but the black one is good too. very tough choice.

BB the white one does have a Z-Tune (replica but still Nismo) front bar on it. You can't easily tell in those photos but just take a look at the lips on both. Notice the white one has the one piece thin lip down the bottom while the black one has the V-Spec two piece lip.

Anyway it's just a fibreglass bar and the plastic front bar is better in terms of durability if you've got any steep driveways to go down.

You also have to remember that to comply either one of these theres a significant amount of work involved. The white one for example, well you're going to need to source a set of standard brembos for it which aren't cheap unless you can borrow some. Although I don't know who has a set lying around to lend out.

well ive had some heartbreaking news :) APPARENTLY the black one has just sold the other day, and apparently to some one on here!!!!

hes asked me to delete the post but ill jus change the pic :)

im waiting on news from my importer.... if thats the case looks like ill be getting the white one!

and regarding compliance, if u know ppl u can get anything complied :D

EDIT---- my importer jus got back to me n tells me it hasnt sold and is still available, i hope hes not full of shit lol he f**ks around!!! haha

Edited by 747.GTR

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...