Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks all! I can't take credit though, my mechanic Sam made it all up and did a great job of it.

Richard, I ended up having the box made up by a friend of 'Craved' on here. Sam ( www.drdrift.com.au ) did all the other work with the hard lines etc

Mate, I would have loved to have had it bought off the shelf, would have saved some headaches! It was all custom built.

I think there may be a market for a pre-fabbed CAMS approved kit like that though

marlin - you need to mate, both the shitters are keeping a knock off 400r and your rival 32 gtst company at the moment!

roy - for tarmac and circuit events the e2 and 3 boxes aren't too bad unless you're dragging. there are a number of beefing up options too that wouldn't break the bank. apparently the boxes get a bad name from guys doing engine swaps into local cars and having the weak local gsr 'box fitted up.

the 4g63 engines go forever, much like sr20s and rb20s etc. for the 4g63 there are plenty of cost effective 2.2 and 2.4 kits too... when i priced a 2.4 rebuild a while back it was only $170 extra to got 2.4 over 2.0 using a factory crank (assuming you'd replace the standard crank).

the pre-e4 diffs in gsr and rs are strong enough for just anything (unlike evo 4 onwards ayc (gsr) units). the gsr spec e1-e3 use an open front centre and are best to be swapped over to ralliart helical front centre found in the rs.

if you wana prepped one i'm considering options on this one and happy to set it up to a spec requested... wont be after big dollars for it either.

boz22n - nup, csc/bmax are grooved that way, zoom in on the veins

there are a few manufacturers doing this, i got confused when fitting mine also, but definately run that way.

Ben are those rotors on back to front or and i looking at it wrong?

The car looks sweet Chris.

post-20078-1237232024.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...