Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

I finally recieved my parts from nengun after a long time and I now have an exhaust fitted. I got trust front pipes, metal cat, Trust PE2 cat back, apexi panel filter and also an Greddy EBC. I am lookin to get it PFC tuned soon but should I get some adjustable cam gears at the same time?

Does it take much longer to tune with adjustable cam gears as in cost more money? I didnt actually want to spend too much more than what I have now but if the tuning cost with cam gears in comparison is not too much more than just tuning with pfc then i may get a set of cam gears as the gains on an rb26 are obvious. Last time i got a tune for just setting up my boost controller and PFC cost me about $650 at CRD. Would it cost much more to adjust camgears?

Any one with experience?

Thanks :blink:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177324-tuning-costs/
Share on other sites

Hey guys

I finally recieved my parts from nengun after a long time and I now have an exhaust fitted. I got trust front pipes, metal cat, Trust PE2 cat back, apexi panel filter and also an Greddy EBC. I am lookin to get it PFC tuned soon but should I get some adjustable cam gears at the same time?

Does it take much longer to tune with adjustable cam gears as in cost more money? I didnt actually want to spend too much more than what I have now but if the tuning cost with cam gears in comparison is not too much more than just tuning with pfc then i may get a set of cam gears as the gains on an rb26 are obvious. Last time i got a tune for just setting up my boost controller and PFC cost me about $650 at CRD. Would it cost much more to adjust camgears?

Any one with experience?

Thanks :blink:

Well my dyno time didn't even cost that much. But it depends on how easy/difficult your tune turns out to be. About $650 should be enough.

Cam gears will make the process take a bit longer than otherwise, maybe a couple hours at the outside. The degreeing adjustments need to be made then the car run up on the dyno to determine which is the most suited to you requirements. There are usually a few combinations to run through & it is a bit of a fiddle with the CAS in the way.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177324-tuning-costs/#findComment-3239395
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...