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How Much Do You Spend On A Oil Change ?

Guilt-Toy

By Guilt-Toy,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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super_s13 Community Regular

super_s13

Posted
Posted
I've been part time at Autobarn since high school, i've owned my skyline since highschool and im studying mechanical engineering, so they can't all be that bad :)

But seriously back to SuperS13's question, fully synthetic oils are 100% fine to use in a daily driven car. I've used it in mine for ages (owned it for 3 years and only ever ran 300V chrono or 4100 turbolight in it, depending how tight cash was. Now only ever run 300V) and its 100% fine and when i took the head off everything looked like new including all the bores. No need to treat the car any differently. Warm up times and shit have more to do with the viscosity then whether its a full synthetic or semi synthetic.

At the end of the day i always tell customers this. There is no one certain oil that can cover every single car, every climate and every use that the car is going to be treated too. For 90% of people an average off the shelf 10W40 or 20W50 oil (regardless of brand) will do the job. It's better to get the viscosity right for the climate and mileage on the car then it is for a specific brand of oil.

If you however can spend the extra money on a well branded oil such as 300V, redline, mobil 1, royal purple etc. Then honestly for a street driven car, you will never outperform above what the oil is capable off.

Hope that kind of made sense.

You sir are a champ. Cheers for the info

Johnny Veteran

Johnny

Posted
Posted
Waiting on Call for Drum or Drums of Chrono & price. Might have to open a Motul Store here in Newy LOL.

Im down for group buy.

Anyone know the shelf life for opened oil?? id expect it to be long, perhaps over 2years.

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted (edited)
Do you guys think it's worth the extra $10 or so on a Greddy/K&N Oil filter as opposed to a Ryco or Nissan OEM oil filter?

Buy a drift one, better than both. i have some weak check stats somewhere comparing particulate size and the drift one came up very well.. i will see if i can find it.

oh and if anyone is in melb and want cheap MOTUL i usually stock about 3-4k of the stuff atany time and will beat any price, especially if your a regular :laugh: i supply the melb s15 club etc..

Edited by URAS
PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
Posted

I actually used to get the Greddy ones through work for the same price as the Rycos lol. If you don't mind spending the extra dollars on a K&N/Greddy then get one. As far as im aware no tests have been done (read "proved") that one is better then the other.

Turbo Dave Collaborator

Turbo Dave

Posted
Posted (edited)

I just got a 4 and 2litre bottle of 300v and a drift filter from Autobarn, they had a whole range of Drift filters there and Royal Purple oil aswell.

Edited by Turbo Dave
__PhaseShiftDown Rising Star

__PhaseShiftDown

Posted
Posted (edited)

After reading all the info on oil base stock. I now only use 300v 10w40.

http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0308_oil/index.html

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/articl...up=Lubrication2

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/articl...oup=OilAnalysis

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/articl...p=Which%20group?

QUOTE

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The API groups oils into five major categories, each with different properties and production methods:

Group I: Solvent frozen mineral oil. This is the least processed of all oils on the market today and is typically used in nonautomotive applications, though some of it may find its way into low-cost motor oils.

Group II: Hydro-processed and refined mineral oil. This is the most common of all petroleum oils and is the standard component of most petroleum-based automotive and motorcycle engine oils.

Group III (now called synthetic): The oils start as standard Group I oils and are processed to remove impurities, resulting in a more heat-stable compound than possible as a standard Group I or II oil. Some examples are Castrol Syntec automotive oil and Motorex Top Speed. These are the lowest cost synthetics to produce, and generally do not perform as well as Group IV or V oils.

Group IV: Polyalphaolefin, commonly called PAOs. These are the most common of the full synthetic oils, and usually offer big improvements in heat and overall stability when compared to Group III oils. They are produced in mass quantities and are reasonably inexpensive for full-synthetic oils. Since they are wax-free they offer high viscosity indexes (low temperature pour point) and often require little or no viscosity modifiers. Examples include Amsoil and Motorex Power Synt.

Group V: Esters. These oils start their life as plant or animal bases called fatty acids. They are then converted via a chemical reaction into esters or diesters which are then used as base stocks. Esters are polar, which means they act like a magnet and actually cling to metals. This supposedly offers much better protection on metal-to-metal surfaces than conventional PAOs, which do not have this polar effect. These base stock oils also act as a good solvent inside the engine, translating into cleaner operation. Esters are the most expensive to produce, and oils manufactured with them usually cost much more. Due to this higher cost, many companies only fortify their oils with esters. Some examples are Bel-Ray EXS, Torco MPZ Synthetic and Maxum 4 Extra. Motul 300V, however, uses 100 percent ester as its base oil, and is one of the more expensive oils.

The grouping of these oils is the source of much controversy. One topic that has been debated is what can be labeled a "full synthetic oil." In 1999, Mobil brought a complaint against Castrol for changing the base oil in its Syntec product. They had used a Group IV PAO, but had changed to a Group III base oil. Mobil contended that Group III oils were not really "synthetic oil" and should not be labeled as such. After many expert opinions were heard, the National Advertising Division of the Better Business Bureau sided with Castrol and said that Group III oils could be labeled synthetic. Since that time there has been a lot of growth in this product type due to its low cost and similar performance to traditional synthetics. Many traditionalists still argue that Group III oils are not true synthetic oils.

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Edited by __PhaseShiftDown
  • 2 weeks later...
BeEnAr Experienced

BeEnAr

Posted
Posted

At the end of the day if you are dropping your oil every 5000kms it doesn't really matter what filter you use, they are all pretty much going to do the same thing in that short a time.

Purolator are very good too. K&N and the DRIFT ones both have a lug nut on the ends that make it very easy to get off with a socket too!

some_cs_student Veteran

some_cs_student

Posted
Posted
After reading all the info on oil base stock. I now only use 300v 10w40.

http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0308_oil/index.html

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/articl...up=Lubrication2

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/articl...oup=OilAnalysis

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/articl...p=Which%20group?

QUOTE

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hey,

Which site are you quoting there? Could definitely use that more detailed info to go into the oil sticky thread, the summary page is a little short of detail at the moment....could do with a detailed second post or similar...

Johnny Veteran

Johnny

Posted
Posted
Buy a drift one, better than both. i have some weak check stats somewhere comparing particulate size and the drift one came up very well.. i will see if i can find it.

oh and if anyone is in melb and want cheap MOTUL i usually stock about 3-4k of the stuff atany time and will beat any price, especially if your a regular :D i supply the melb s15 club etc..

Hey i just wanna add some advice from experience:

Used a drift filter in my gtr and on startup, the oil light takes 2-3seconds to turn off and for the oil pressure to ramp up.

Changed to coopers filter and it takes less than 1 second to dissapear.

end story, will never use drift products again!!!

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