Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I use motul 8100. Always been good and never have a problem with it. Synthetic and not overly expensive.

I think i used drift filters ages and ages ago but havent been able to find them since so just went ryco but again no problems there either

  • 3 months later...
  • Replies 154
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Is it ok to run on Castrol Magnetec 10/40W & Ryco filters on R33 GTST?

Never seen a track or drag strip.. only used for normal daily drive.

How often do I drop the oil & change filter?

Can someone please advice.. thanks

Is it ok to run on Castrol Magnetec 10/40W & Ryco filters on R33 GTST?

Never seen a track or drag strip.. only used for normal daily drive.

How often do I drop the oil & change filter?

Can someone please advice.. thanks

Personally I prefer Fuchs 10w30 (you will find it at bursons) and I use Ryco or genuine filters.

You could run 10w40 if your car is ~150k km+ or sees track time.

daily driven and not thrashed change at 10k km, otherwise 5k km. If you do more long drives than short you can do the longer interval, if all short drives the shorter is better.

I change at 5k km as cheap insurance.

  • 3 weeks later...

has anyone used the Nismo Verspeed 5w40 ? I have been using 300v all this time but over in this country its harder to get Motul... and I won 5 litres of Nismo at the drag racing comp here.

i am a bit worried to change the oil because 300v has been really good for me so far

has anyone used the Nismo Verspeed 5w40 ? I have been using 300v all this time but over in this country its harder to get Motul... and I won 5 litres of Nismo at the drag racing comp here.

i am a bit worried to change the oil because 300v has been really good for me so far

the nismo stuff is good too. i've used it in japan. as you know I also have a big love of the 300V but the veruspeed stuff will be fine. hell it may even be some kind of motul re-branded.... there is a very close association between nismo and motul.....

Yeah I will give it a go, its expensive oil the Nismo stuff... will see how it goes. I will go back to Motul next year as I wont be buying Nismo

the nismo stuff is good too. i've used it in japan. as you know I also have a big love of the 300V but the veruspeed stuff will be fine. hell it may even be some kind of motul re-branded.... there is a very close association between nismo and motul.....
  • 3 weeks later...

you are right. confirmed that the Nismo oil is Motul!!

the nismo stuff is good too. i've used it in japan. as you know I also have a big love of the 300V but the veruspeed stuff will be fine. hell it may even be some kind of motul re-branded.... there is a very close association between nismo and motul.....

Can you get Mobil 1 Synthetic oils Guilt ?

Sounds silly but when Porsche specify Mobil 1 Racing 4T 15W50 , which is bike oil , it cant be too bad . Aprilia and Triumph like it for sport bike apps as well .

A sport bike with the piss bags being flogged out of it is supposed to work its oil prety hard - high revs and big temp variations in their engines .

Since bikes tend to have the crutch in their oil , and a gearset as well , it can't have the friction modifiers like road car oil has . Has to stand on its own feet without being pasterised and homogonised so to speak .

Racing 4T synthetic also comes in 10W40 and 20W50 - second one for Harley earth moving equipment ...

A mate of mine works for a competition quad bike mob and I pay $16.20/L out of their 44 gal drum .

When you coming home and buying a "Tunemobile" van ? Maybe a table top with a dyno in the bed ?

Cheers A .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok guys thank you very much. GCG highflow it is then 🙂 
    • forgot to mention that when it does this it does not kill the engine, but I have not kept the pedal down long enough to let it, as I see no reason to beat up on it as its got to be something simple, small and dumb causing this.  And as soon as I let off pedal, the engine returns to its normal super smooth operation and rpms re-stabilize quickly, once below 4k. 
    • neither stumble or cut really seem to be an appropriate term....hard to explain its like a rev limiter but at 4k, but it violently shakes engine and entire vehicle as the rpms will not rise over 4k, even with slow acceleration. as soon as it hits 4k, it sounds like entire spark is lost entirely. plugs were 1.1 which I used as such, but later put in new plugs gapped down to .8 changed back after issue arose when I replaced the coils, still does it with either plug gap...damn and it was all running so good.
    • Oh how times have changed! I actually lean it out relative to my water/methanol injector duty cycle. The methanol adds a lot of fueling and you can then lean it out even more due to reduced knock. 
    • Yeah my thoughts are the same, a well thought out WMI setup, would be slightly ahead of just straight E85 and you're also chemically intercooling the charged air, dropping it even further. This is why you need to add so much more fuel as soon as you spray. I remember someone taking me through their set up before (Dennis, has a R33, lives around Cabramatta - no idea if he's still around on this forum). He would target AFR 10:1 on 98, then as WMI ramped on, AFR would lean back up to 11:1. Amazingly, he did this all through his PowerFC, a relay to cut power to his EBC solenoid if there was not enough line pressure on his WMI kit. And of course, if there wasn't any boost made above gate pressure, you wouldn't be accessing the load cells with heaps of timing for WMI. One downside to that rudimentary setup, once the WMI came on, the EBC would unleash the dragon, and of course all the timing. Tyres would fry lol.
×
×
  • Create New...