Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

At the moment im looking to buy some rods for my RB25.

My power goal with my next turbo is around 280rwkw.

Just wondering if GTR rods out of a 34 would fit my engine?

I would be getting them shot peened and balanced.

After that would the rods be able to take the punishment or am i better off getting Eagle rods?

I just think the forged ones might be over kill.

Oh does that mean i have to get GTR spec pistons too?

CHEERS

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177545-gtr-rods-for-my-rb25/
Share on other sites

The Eagle ones are $810.

I can get the GTR rods for $200

Tomei rod bolts for $150

And shot peening and balancing would be around the $200 mark????

Or you could just use GTR rods, no need for balancing(as long as you get a set), rod bolts or shotpeening for 280rwkw

(and you use rb25 pistons)

Edited by Adriano
Or you could just use GTR rods, no need for balancing(as long as you get a set), rod bolts or shotpeening for 280rwkw

(and you use rb25 pistons)

im using r33 gtr rods in my rb25, balancing is a MUST. such an important part of an engine build why skip it>? 1 of my rods was twisted and they were out of wieght from eachother by upto 5grams each, dont skip the balancing part, i didnt get mine shotpeened or nitrided but did get new arp rods bolts pressed in.. at the end of the day probably is best to go with after market rods depending on your goal with the car but if your anything like me you end up wanting more power so really decide wat u want car for n spend accordingly

for ~280rwkw is it really necessary?

if engine is apart then i think do asmuch as u can afford.. saves alot of headache later.... stock rods might handle 280kw but wat if the need for more power is felt and then this forged motor with stock rods are now hampering the potential?? seems like alot of wasted money pulling engine apart to fit rods when could have been done when engine was apart first time...:) my thoughts anyway

I hear there isnt much difference between RB25 and RB26 rods anyways... Shot peen ur 25 rods, balance the crank that shold be that part sorted. Forged pistons for an RB25 and it should be fine. If ppl can be making 230-240rwkw on stock internals (new here so dont if the figures r higher) then a bit of strengthening and balancing wont hurt.

Liam

26 rods are good for well into the upper 300rwkw range, some even into the 400rwkw.

An upgrade if you have the motor apar IMO when you can get a set for $150.

That way if you chase a bit more power later, your already setup for it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wife wanted basket things in the wardrobe in our temporary house. Thought about ripping our the wardrobe and fitting the entire IKEA set, but it's a temporary house and we want to move in a few years. So IKEA advertises this as a 50cm unit, however the actually basket and rails measure 46cm wide. Only issue was depth, IKEA stuff is quite deep, where as the builder special junk is super shallow at less than 40cm. Send it, chopped the rails, then offset the mounting holes, job done, happy wife, less shit scattered all over the bedroom. Did the same to the other side too. Also drove the Skyline shit box today, dropped off oil at Supercheap Auto. I didn't realise they only now take max 2x bottles per visit. I visited 2x Supercheap Autos.  
    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
×
×
  • Create New...