Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Am thinking of doing this instead of aftermarket ecu.

Will be running Z32 Afm with FMIC and exhaust everything else will be standard.

Will probably use one of nistunes boards for tuning eventually, but till then.

I have just a few questions.

- Does it matter what type of ECU (16 or 8 Bit).

- Are The stock z32 maps suitable for RB25

- Will Z32 ecu run the standard boost control soleniod.

- Can I run an external ignitor with my exhisting coils.

- Are my exhisting knock sensors suitable.

Any Help would be greatly appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179120-z32-ecu-into-r33-series-2/
Share on other sites

well you would probably have to re-wire most of the ecu. then if things like injectors are different size then that will mess with how well it runs, as will the afm, as will the fact that 1 is a 3.0L and one is a 2.5L so the amount of air and fuel that each uses at idle (and the whole way through the rev range) will be different.

so in short, it could be a lot of work only to find that the car won't run.

Thanks guys.

Will probably use an older Z32 Ecu (8 bit). Probably install nistune daugtherboard at same time to iron out any problems.

is there anyone who can shed some light on the factory boost control eg. does it work from the z32 ecu?

Yeah the Z32 does control VCT, which is why I am choosing it over a RB20 ecu. Standard switching point is 5900 rpm on z32.

Also z32 injectors are 370cc same as r33 i think.

Anyone got any info on the stndrd boost control thing?

The main purpose for using the Z32 ecu is that Nisstune have daughter boards that allow real time tuning with map tracing and they support wide band AF sensors (Tech edge i think). All this for approx 400$ + Install and a tune.

I am going to use a Z32 AFM as I felt this would allow me to use the Z32 ECU maps untill I had the Nisstune daughter board installed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
    • Hi All, putting the engine back together and everything is perfect except have this plug left over.. any ideas what it is for and where it goes? Is on cold side under the intake plenum *note not a stock plug, as everything has been modified Cheers
×
×
  • Create New...