Jump to content
SAU Community

Arp Headstud Torque

sky30

By sky30,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted

from memory i think the torque is 100ft/lbs for headstuds. and i dont recall there ever being any problems with stud length in the head. Only problems with studs for the mains for the three long ones which you need to use some out of a different motor vg30 or something which you use two washers on. Hopefully im pretty close to being accurate, if not surely someone else will clear it up.

r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted (edited)

its bloudy 100ft/lbs if you use oil...and its 79ft/lbs if you use their moly grease.

that is from arp.

that wasnt supposed to sound rude...so dont get wrong idea.

Edited by r33_racer
sky30 Mentor

sky30

Posted
  • Author
Posted
its bloudy 100ft/lbs if you use oil...and its 79ft/lbs if you use their moly grease.

that is from arp.

that wasnt supposed to sound rude...so dont get wrong idea.

Thanks Micheal, Its just that on the back of the box they give 3 differnt torques for 3 different tensiles, but how do you know what tensile you got, then in the box they put a paper that says 70ftlb i think.

  • 9 months later...
drgnball34 Rising Star

drgnball34

Posted
Posted (edited)

my builder told me today that we cant use all 14 arp headstuds. Apparenty the two for the middle of the head will cause oil gallery issues. So we going to opt to replace them with two standard ones instead. Has anyone used all 14 headstuds? This is for a NEO head onto a rb30 block. Im abit concerned as we going to push 2bar of t04z and NOS.

Edited by drgnball34
  • 4 months later...
xsv_32 Enthusiast

xsv_32

Posted
Posted

I bought my set the other week and im not too sure on this but do you use the allen key at the top of each stud to put them into the block and then torque them up or just leave them hand tight and do all the torqing from the top end once the head is on? May sound stupid but I dont want to f**k this up!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • iain_ST44GA
      M35 VQ25DET starter motor

      By iain_ST44GA · Posted

      Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Duncan
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By Duncan · Posted

      Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Duncan
      New kid on the block

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Duncan
      Coolant leak?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...