Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

anyone got any ideas on if this would be better than supercharging?

also anyone got any ideas on what needs to be done eg change of gearbox etc

anything would be appreciated as im trying to convince my bro in law to do this rather than supercharging

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/17997-turbocharging-a-vt-v6-auto/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 67
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The boxes are strong but not very smooth. Plenty of hot up parts for the boxes as theyare the same 4 speed out of the Corvette.

Budget, budget, budget. I think a supercharger kit (CAPA etc) would be cheaper at what i think is about $5k

Cool to see someone do twin turbo though

compression would be an issue as well though. those V6 engines were built for family commuting and therefore low down torque and not all-out power.

if you turbo-ed it you could probably only run 5-6psi safely

personally i wouldnt bother with a holden 6. get a nissan 6 or a v8 :P

well theyre both forms of forced induction. one aimed at torque and one at max power. given the characteristics of the engine id suggest supercharging it. but its getting blood out of a stone really - its never going to be a super-quick car on a budget. it would be more financially viable to trade it in and start a performance car project with a more suited car

A couple of ideas,

1. buy an eaton (roots type) blower from holden, the blower itself is alot cheaper from them than if you source one from CAPA (ie under 2k), or

2. buy an RB20, do a conversion - may even be cheaper than a blower, definately cheaper than 2 turbos - and better fuel economy to boot :)

Read zoom, as they have done an RB conversion into a vs... I was going to put an RB25 into my VS berlina but it wasnt worth the time or money... too heavy and a VT is heavier.

Out of the two i would choose turbo for the 3800, always more tractable and fun, but still easy on the engine if you drive slow... but like others have said it depends on your budget.

I remember also in zoom they did a twin turbo conversion using oem turbos and doing it as cheap as possible on a falcon 6 and did it for under $5000.

There is also a single turbo holden 6 up here in brisbane that hardcore performance built and made 320hp at the wheels with low boost but forged pistons so he can raise the boost later.

There are a million things to consider.....

Whack the standard Holden supercharger on it & use a smaller pulley.

That way the supercharger spins faster & you get more power.

A mate of mine is an engineer at Tickfords.

They did this when the supercharged Commodore was first released.

He reckons they got awesome power out of it until it exploded!

Still, a milder version of this extreme experiement should work.

The NA Holden V6 is significantly different to the supercharged variant. From memory the heads arent interchangeable, nor is the blower a simple bolt on, mods are required.

I still think a CAPA or equiv kit is the cheapest/best option.

Only an idea... but if budget permits, sell the std V6, buy a supercharged engine, rip off the blower and selll it too, then go the twin turbo route. Should be able to run about 10psi on RB20 turbos or similar for a good hit of torque and hp.

Its always so easy to tell people how they should spend their money.

Superchargers on the VS's and VT's etc when slapping a smaller pulley don't tend to make much more top end power. However the mid range increases dramatically but it is still a slowish car that will have a hard time with the new R8's not to mention another Boosted skyline.

I personally would go turbo as in the long run you will save money on fuel compared to a supercharger. Turbo's are free horsepower superchargers are not.

Twin turbo wouldn't be to difficult to do. You would need to be able to remap the standard ECU when I think some one in adelaide is able to do. 2 x manifolds for each bank close to 2k.. The two RB20DET Turbo's $800. It really doesn't add up to that much. I think it could be done for 5k pretty easily providing you don't run the Injectors etc out of scope. Then it starts costing money and work on the internals.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
×
×
  • Create New...