Removing Broken Turbo Manifold Stud

[benl1981]

Just took off my high flow to get fixed.

One of the nuts holding the turbo to the manifold had seized so that when I went to undo the nut it spun the whole stud. It was really tough to undo it. I sprayed some wd40 etc.

After about 1-2 turns I snapped it so that only 1-2mm is protruding out from the manifold. I can thread a nut onto it (just enough). Was wondering if putting the nut on then filling the middle with weld (welding the nut to the stud from the middle would be the way to go. (I have a Mig wleder- hopefully can get the nozzle in ok)

The torque required to undo it was heaps. I was trying with quite a large breaker bar, hence why the stud snapped. So I guess it will take a fair bit to get it out.

I just put a new exh manifold gasket and studs on ~3 months ago so would like to leave that in place

[TurboX]

I would grind the nut down so it threads imeaditately just minimum on, then weld it as you say so you hopefully can turn it back in just a bit.

Weld it first then let completely cool down as stud would expand more than manifold with heat and lock in harder.

Then lubricate again alot and when completely cold ease it back and forth just a bit more at a time and you may get lucky.

[benl1981]

I should have been more patient with it last night

Thanks for the tips. So still use a normal size nut? Just grind off about 0.5mm or so to ensure thread engages straight away?

I'll get into it with the penetrating oil.

Cheers

[MANWHORE]

Definitely welding is the best option. I've got heaps of broken studs out by welding, even if they are snapped flush with the block.

Once you've filled it with weld, make sure that you have heaps of penetrating oil handy. Wind the nut backwards and forwards, backwards and forwards. The nut might come off. Weld it on again. Eventually, you should get it off. It helps to heat the manifold a LITTLE if you can. Bunnings sell a butane torch - blue one for $20 including gas.

Some people like to use easyouts, but I don't like them because they're brittle. The way how I think about it, if a big thick stud will snap, what chance does a thin easyout have.

I didn't know you had a mig .... Might give you a buzz next time I need something welded

Edited August 8, 2007 by MANWHORE

[MANWHORE]

no need to grind the nut down - its better with the whole nut so that your socket/spanner can grip it - if you only have half a nut, it'll slip off

[benl1981]

Probably wont be able to se what's going on when welding - just have to aim it in there and pull the trigger

Yeah got a mig but I dont use it that much. let me know if you need something done. I used to have gas but now just usually use the gasless wire.

[MANWHORE]

Which nut is it?

You should be right. Better than paying some thread guy to come out and do the same thing

edit: stud, not nut

Edited August 8, 2007 by MANWHORE

[benl1981]

Its the top left one. When looking at the 4 studs from the passenger side...I have a pic in my phone but no means to d/load it

Edited August 8, 2007 by benl1981

[benl1981]

Here are the pics.

[BHDave]

This will be one of the few times i'd recommend the nut and weld method over an easy out, simply because you don't have the room to get a decent size drill bit in there square to drill out the center of the stud.

Once you get the stud out, grab yourself an M10 x 1.25 tap and clean up the thread, it's likely damaged from the shank on the stud bottoming out when originally installed. It's probably a good time to replace the other 3 studs while you are there.

Edited August 8, 2007 by BHDave

[benl1981]

Thanks BH - Will try that.

But wouldn't an easy out be NO good for any situation were the stud is so tight you need a big breaker bar causing it to snap? Wouldnt the easy out usually snap sooner than the thick bolt?

I guess once you break it you are closer to the part that is locked (less torsion load in the bolt). I might buy a special rust buster product to free up the rust. I have some decent penetrating oil but might get some stronger stuff.

Will do the other 3 at the same time - good idea. Is Nissan the best place for studs and nuts or can you get them aftermarket?

Edited August 8, 2007 by benl1981

[MANWHORE]

Nissan for the studs and nuts.

I don't like easyouts, because i've never had a good experience with them. In some cases, e.g. with block-manifold studs, the studs might have snapped because they were stretched. Since they're not really locked in, easyouts work.

As easyouts are hardened steel, they are theoretically stronger than a similarly thick stud, however, they're ultra brittle.

Granted, i'm no expert in using easyouts, but i've snapped so many of them i'm scared to use them.

Welding trick always works for me. If the weld snaps off, I just keep doing it until it comes out - the heat from welding helps too.

[ardie]

hey mate, just do the welding as every1 else is telling you (i personally had 2 easy out all 5 of my broken ones as they were flush with the head).

as for the stud, call around your local auto parts stockist, maby some bolt shops (depends where you go in both cases as they arnt exactly common) and ask if they have studs in an m10 * 1.25 pitch at 50mm, saves the wait at nissan (you sound impatient, just like me so im sure you would appreciate this too lol) if all else fails, yeah nissans the go

[benl1981]

Yeah you're right mate I am impatient)!!. Should have let it soak overnight and eased into it a bit..but wanted to get the turbo off last night so I could get it fixed by the weekend.

Cars been running crap for too long. Not going home tonight but will get someone to soak it for me while I'm away.

Thanks

[benl1981]

chris - do you usually disconnect battery and ECU before welding.

Dont want to blow up the PFC!!

[R31Nismoid]

You must have been pretty angry with it to break a fresh stud!

I took my manifold off half a dozen times over 12 months back in 05-06 and i didnt break one once!

Fair enough if they were old ones, but new ones...

You didnt cross-thread or anything initially did you?

[benl1981]

Nah mate they were old ones.

I just tried the welding but didnt seem to get enough penetration on the stud. Was pretty hard to get a good angle. I had one decent go but then the weld snapped and back to square one.

Thinking of wlding a washer around it then the nut to the large washer, That way I can get better coverage. Was hoping to have this done by the weekend!

Wish I was more patient at first.

[benl1981]

Im pretty sure the Thread into the manifold is M10x1.5 and the section protruding is M10x1.25

[MANWHORE]

I do'nt have a welder, so I've never been able to weld it myself unfortunately. The guy that I used to get to do the weldign for me said that he had a 'good' welder which doesn't damage the ecu etc. I was like just to be safe i'll disconnect the ecu and battery, so yeah, I do.

If the nut is too thick, definitely have a go with the washer first. Using the washer trick, its even possible to get out studs that are flush with the block/manifold. Get a washer that's slightly smaller than the stud's outer size. Don't worry too much about weld sticking to the manifold, because it'll be cold remember, so unless if you go crazy with the welder, you shoudl be right.

When you said it snapped, did you try winding it back in first? (did you get any turn out of it the first time? or was it totally locked it)

[benl1981]

Hey mate. Yeah I disconnected batt and ECU just in case

Yeah the nut was too thick. I counterunk one and will try it on the weekend.

The amount that is sticking out (about 1 threads wirth) is how much I got it to turn.. but that was with a big breaker bar.. Once I got the turbo off I have now saturated it with penetrating oil and rust buster.

Hopefully that will reduce the torque required to undo..