Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can some of you with autos please tell me what you've done - or recommend doing to get the most power out of them :)

I need ideas and inspiration not to mention im really curious as to what kind of power you are getting out of your autos :) hehe im sick of the manual guys teasing me - something needs to be done :)

Cheers

Lauren

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18330-auto-performance/
Share on other sites

lauren,

to get more power is the same as a manual. Having said that you get slightly less power at the wheels with an auto as it chews a bit more power out of the driveline.

One of the good things a bout an auto is the fact that you can whack a high stall in them. Bad for your fuel economy but great for a mean launch. Most auto places can rebuild the torque converter in smaller diameter to increase the stall speed. Modified stock converters can yeild an extra 800rpm or so, whilst a custom unit can be set anywhere you like. I'm not sure what the auto's are like valve body wise but a good auto rebuilder can usually sharpen up the 1st to 2nd shift with a bit of a fiddle. Nothing like 'banging' into each gear and chirping the wheels.

On the stock turbo I'd say a 2800rpm stall would work very well. It would wipe alot of smiles off the manual boys faces very quickly.

I'm getting the volvo's turbo350 box rebuilt on wednesday with a mild stall and a valve body mod, I'll ask if they have done any jap stuff if you like.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18330-auto-performance/#findComment-383177
Share on other sites

i didnt put her on - didnt have the courage - didnt have $25 on me at the time haha i would rather not know - than know and be disappointed haha i will one day but for the time being she's just a stockie - running slightly higher than stock boost with a dodgy bleed valve - thats it.

Didnt realise u had an auto memphis! Have u put a cooler or anything in yours? An intercooler and replacing the horrible pussie zorst is my mission :D but i keep saving up for these goodies then having to spend the money on neccessities like tyres n shockies and now i need new brake pads *sigh*

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18330-auto-performance/#findComment-384793
Share on other sites

Lauren,

You could ask chrisroi about his dyno run... 250ish RWHP, stock 94 Auto, with Full Zorst, POD, Front Mount, and 10psi.

His power anc fuel curves are close to perfect... I was amazed.

Dont forget when looking for a high-stall jobbie don't get one that's too high, or you'll be revving to 2000rpm before even moving...

That said, bully's Supra pulls 13.99 with only a POD and cold air, Stock zorst. His auto chirps into 2nd too!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18330-auto-performance/#findComment-384804
Share on other sites

JiMiH,

I think your confusing the shift kit with something like the B&M 'shifter'.

I have a B&M mega shifter in the volvo, it's a ratchet shifter for fast changes, however the trans being stock had other ideas about how quick it would change between gears.

The Shift kit is just a mod to the valve body to allow minimal slipage on gear selection. The most extreme case is banging into every gear, great for the strip but hell on the kids in the baby seats. You can have the change set to something inbetween.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18330-auto-performance/#findComment-384973
Share on other sites

hehe i would be happy with 250hp :P yeah my zorst is pitiful actually my whole car is pitiful - everyone elses cars came with toys but mine seems to be from the ground up job ;) hehe u got your zorst very cheap - they dont have a second one laying around anywhere do they :) haha

My ZX (also auto) just seems to make my skyline look like a slug ..... if i didnt have two flat tyres on it i wouldve put that on the dyno then my skyline cos the ZX's boost sends u almost thru the windscreen - boost on the Skyline is a lot more subtle. It irratates me that my old car is faster than my new toy!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18330-auto-performance/#findComment-385408
Share on other sites

oh sorry, when i say a larger stall, i mean a higher rpm stall converter :)

Sometimes u just cant get the exact car u want for the price nizmo, or u really need a car and hey theres a perfectly good one avaliable, just its an auto. Although economically it isn't really worth it in the long run.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18330-auto-performance/#findComment-394687
Share on other sites

Hey Nizmo

I have an auto too and the reason why I didn't buy a manual was because it was more expensive at the time, and I was short of cash and was just happy with a SKYLINE haha

Also I had bad experience with my last manual car, i basically lost 3rd gear and couldn't be bothered getting it fixed.

I too get heaps of SH$T from the guys because my car is auto, but hey at least I can drink my slurpee and cruise at the same time hehe. And half of them can't really drive anyway so I usually beat them off the line. But I guess if my auto goes hay-wire. I probaly install a manual gearbox.

Just one questions go the guys here, when doing a conversion from auto to manual to you have to change the computer as well?? The reason i ask was that one of my mates did a conversion a Vtec Prelude without changing the comp, and for some reason his vtec wasn't kicking in probaly.

I'm assuming it is because of the different gearing ratio and the extra gear.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18330-auto-performance/#findComment-395197
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...