Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all. I have to pull off the balancer from my RB30 bottom end and it is just a short motor. I rung an engine reconditioning place and they told me how they do it and I am not really keen on doing it till someone else says it will be OK.

they said a rattle gun will not have enough torque so forget that.

they told me to remove the sump and wedge a bit of wood between the crank and block then get a HUGE breaker bar on the balancer nut and apply a lot of force.

Will this possibly damage the crank? last thing I want is a bent crank...

sorry for the newb question :)

otherwise has anyone else got any ideas on how to remove the balancer from a short motor not installed in a car?

Hi CEF11E,

This is how i have done it before, and it doesnt damage the crank thats why you need to use wood as its softer than the crank so wont damage it.

I used a 3 foot breaker bar when i undid mine and it stil ltook alot of effort, and even then i needed to use a gear puller to remove it from the crank shaft.

hope this helps you

cheers

depends on how good your rattle gun is and air supply...

You should be able to do it with a normal breaker bar with 32mm socket i think from memory, if flywheel is on, use a screwdriver between teeth and the dowel on the block for the gbox. If no flywheel, put two bolts into the flywheel holes and put screwdriver between those two to hold the crank from turning while someone else undoes the crank bolt.

Then a puller to get the balancer off the crank.

27mm from memory.

the 'piece of wood between the crank and block' trick works well.

you arent wedging it on the main part of the crank, you're wedging it between the big counter-weights, and they are pretty meaty. you will not do any damage to it at all.

if u needed to remove the balancer with the motor in the car could you put the car in gear with handbrake on or will this damage gearbox?

to remove the bolt, get a breaker bar and have it lean over to the left hand side of the motor (right hand side if you're looking into your engine bay) so that it is levering on the ground.

then just crank the car and it will undo the bolt.

Yes, I believe that you are supposed to leave it in gear to undo it; alot easier this way too!

May get away with it this way with an rb30 balancer - I doubt it though as it will just slip the clutch. You can also remove the starter motor and jam the flywheel or drill a small hole through the bottom of the bellhousing and jam it that way.

lol you'd go to all of that trouble on a short motor when you could simple jam a block of wood in the crank somewhere?

Its seriously not that tight.

You just need a big breaker bar. :blink:

lol you'd go to all of that trouble on a short motor when you could simple jam a block of wood in the crank somewhere?

Its seriously not that tight.

You just need a big breaker bar. :P

With a 1m piece of steel tube as an extension.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...