Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

http://www.racechrono.com/?lang=en

found it on the IPRA forums. thought it might be handy for some people here, and we might get some feedback about how it well it works! see if its worth upgrading my old phone...

  • Replies 70
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

  • 2 weeks later...

I have to be honest I'm not sure how good it will be. I have a Nokia N95 and the navi on it is not so crash hot. it takes a little while to get a lock so I'm not sure how well it will fare doing something as precise as track timing.

seems good if you already have a compatible nokia, but if you have to go out and buy one, wouldn't you be better spending a little extra and getting a performance box? (drift box without drift angles)

we've just ordered nokia 6110 Navigator that runs this software....unfortunately no stock in the country for about 4 weeks....will give this a shot after that :rolleyes:

I hope you didn't purely buy a 6110 for this software Duncan, as at this stage they don't support the internal GPS receiver.

Its probably better anyway to have an external receiver mounted on the glass anyway. I reckon this wouldn't be a bad way to time in tarmac rallies for your own reference (better than a stop watch in your hand that you can easily bump, or forget about :action-smiley-069:

Edited by PHaT MR30

i tried this out at phillip island today. its seems to be pretty accurate. it was off by like 1/10 of a second.

Its cool you just turn it on, then once you pass the start line (in like 3 seconds or 3 hours etc..) it starts recording the times

duncan buy an external bluetooth gps. then you should be able to use the program. I use the 'holux m1000' bluetooth gps. its $70 or so including postage on ebay. You'll also be able to use tomtom and all the other programs which dont like nokias gps.

it will store it on the phone on the memory card. the software is also on the phone. the bluetooth gps adaptor just works out the gps info then sends it to the phone, its the the software/phones job to do all the calculations to work out the times based on the info.

if i bought an external gps box to hook up to the phone will it store the lap times? or will the phone?

you need to download 'nokia pc suite' i think its called. it comes with all the software to connect to phone and sync stuff and also the program with installs .sis files on your phone.

anyone got a .sis file extension software to open it with?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...