Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got myself a sheet of aluminium today from the local hardware store so that I can make an air box for the pod filter. I've got the template all trial fitted so the only thing left to do it transfer the design onto the alu sheet. The only problem I see left is cutting it. The sheet is 0.5mm thick so it's not too thick. Any suggestions?

I was thinking of tin snips, they'd be fine for 0.3mm ones but i'm not too sure about 0.5mm...

Will hack saw work? theoretically, they are somewwhat "manuverable" for cutting odd shapes.....

I would use a tin snipper or an angle grinder. Depending what types of shapes you're cutting out, the hack saw could be some help if you've got one lying around. I wouldn't use a hack saw myself, I'm such a newbie using one. Snapped about 3 blades trying to cut one little piece of metal rod. :P

you sure its half a mil. thats heaps thin. wouldn't be very strong??

use a saw of some kind (jigsaw, hacksaw). aluminium just clogs up grinder discs and then they don't cut properly, the metal is too soft. if you have to use the grinder because you have no other choice go and get some 1mm stainless cutting discs, they work ok, not the best finish.

This is a weekend DIY thing so what every tool I have will have to suffice. So plasma cutters are out of the question.

yeah I'm sure they are 0.5mm and the reason I got it because it seems thin enough to cut by myself without having to enlist the help of expensive workshops and just strong enough to be useful. This is afterall just for fun. I'll try the hack saw and see how that goes.....if I can't find a hacksaw i'll have to get a tin snips....it seems to be a tough job cutting with tin snips though. We'll see tomorrow.

if you want to cut allumium with grinder you will need the "green" cutting disks also known as silicone cutoff wheels. I personally would use a jigsaw with the appropiate blade. Ask bunnings for which blade. Or use your head and rear the packet

got a circular saw?

as mentioned the alloy can clog a grinding disk, then over heat and (for want of a better word) explode. these flying parts can kill you, it has happened before.

you could get yourself a drill powered Nippler, these will not warp either side of the cut so you dont waste material.

got a circular saw?

as mentioned the alloy can clog a grinding disk, then over heat and (for want of a better word) explode. these flying parts can kill you, it has happened before.

you could get yourself a drill powered Nippler, these will not warp either side of the cut so you dont waste material.

LOL @ nippler

i meant nibbler .... what can i say its friday

Got myself a sheet of aluminium today from the local hardware store so that I can make an air box for the pod filter. I've got the template all trial fitted so the only thing left to do it transfer the design onto the alu sheet. The only problem I see left is cutting it. The sheet is 0.5mm thick so it's not too thick. Any suggestions?

if ur in perth pm me i can cut it for ya at my work. or else you using a hacksaw (will take some time) or jigsaw (just make sure your using a metal blade which is for metal and for the 0.5mm thickness)

Tin snips are the go. But there is a trick to it!

First cut out the piece fairly roughly leaving maybe 10mm of material extra beyond the cutting line. It will be tough going, and the sheet will buckle and wrinkle along the cut, because a big sheet cannot curl as it is cut.

Once you have got that far, the edges will look pretty rough wrinkly. Cut again, but this time leave only about five mm of material beyond the line. Because the piece being cut off is now very narrow, it will curl easily and the cut edge will be very clean.

Go around a third time, but this time cut right up to the line. It will be very easy to cut around fairly sharp curves, and come out with a nice clean cut with an undamaged edge, right on the line.

If you want to avoid scratches, stick wide masking tape all over the sheet, and mark out your shape with a ball point pen. Do all your drilling, cutting, filing and folding. When the whole thing is completely finished, peel off the tape, and it will have an unblemished surface.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...