Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Anyone used Yahoo Auctions lately?

I bought me a used Power FC the other day, fantastic - got it for a steal!

Anyway, went back in today to bid on something else.. and they have changed the rules. You now have to become a 'premium' member to bid on anything over ¥5000!

This means giving Yahoo your credit card number and paying ¥294 a month for the rest of you life.

This sux. Bugger you Yahoo Japan :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184651-yahoo-japan/
Share on other sites

yahoo membership has always been free of monthly fees. I think from memory it cost me a few hundred yen when I first signed up (years ago) but you never had to pay monthly fees. I gave them japanese credit car but never really had it billed for anything since I've never sold anything on yahoo.

are you a premium member? if so then you are paying the monthly fee.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184651-yahoo-japan/#findComment-3343286
Share on other sites

yahoo membership has always been free of monthly fees. I think from memory it cost me a few hundred yen when I first signed up (years ago) but you never had to pay monthly fees. I gave them japanese credit car but never really had it billed for anything since I've never sold anything on yahoo.

are you a premium member? if so then you are paying the monthly fee.

i guess i must be, i pay something like 200yen a month, I have to ask jesse if my account is premium as he set it up for me

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184651-yahoo-japan/#findComment-3343288
Share on other sites

you've always had to pay a once off fee, but the new "premium user" scheme is a variant on the old put your credit card in, pay a once off and off you go scheme.

Its been around for a couple of months now from memory, definitely not a year. We've got a premium account now, otherwise we couldn't bid on cars :)

I think some high price auctions allow you to still bid on em if you're not a premium user though, if the seller pays extra... not really sure on the details.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184651-yahoo-japan/#findComment-3343293
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

It has always been a monthly based fee. About a year ago or so they introduced a campaign where it was free to make an account (with no monthly fees) and in July they changed the rights of the `free` users to a limit of 4,999yen bids. So it depends when you signed up as Yahoo always have campaigns coming and going. Usually its a 294yen (~$3 AUD) a month fee to be a premium(non restricted) user.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184651-yahoo-japan/#findComment-3420373
Share on other sites

I pay $3 a month.... it's like a coffee i will never get back each month :~(

hello Sewid

How does one go about joining

I see a few things i want but thought you had to use some of the various agencies who charge like wounded bulls.

A link would be good

$3 is nothing.

Hope to hear from u soon

regards

Ike

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184651-yahoo-japan/#findComment-3422677
Share on other sites

you can open an account pretty easily, but you'll just end up getting a bad rating when you try to communicate with the seller in english, or you spring that "i'm in australia, can you post international" on them.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184651-yahoo-japan/#findComment-3423066
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, yes, every CU on the bus is available via the Consult port, but whether the scanner you are using is capable of talking to the TCU, the ABS/TCS modules, etc etc, is what is at question here. Many of them are only for engine codes. So, if you have one of those, you won't know if the ABS is having a bitch.
    • That's now. R chassis Skylines come from a time when the tolerance in the ADRs was a bit more....slack. My car, on 235/35-17, which is damn near the exact same size as the original 205/55-16, is pretty much bang on correct indicated speed across the whole legal range. That's demonstrated with constant speed run over 5km, and GPS speed. It's just the luck of the draw. My particular speedo head has to be the thing that is "calibrated" that way, because everything else (the diff ratio, the gearbox and the speedo drive**) are all same same as most other Skylines. **OK, so the speedo drive is a Navara unit to drive the R32's cable, not the electronic unit than an R33/4 would normally have with teh same gear on it. Otherwise, I applaud your OCD tendencies, and I would do the same if I needed to.
    • Not too sure, I believe the Nissan consult port does everything? Also just filled up the reservoir to full and the light is still on. The float seems to move up and down fine.
    • The speedo's can be very conservative, when my Mazda NC MX5 speedo is showing 118kph, the GPS, and a calibrated radar.... cop mate.....hits me at around 110kph +/- 1 or 2 kph, and that is on a 215/45 17, stock tyres size is 205/45 17 as well, so weirdly conservative with stock tyre size When my Commodore speedo red 116kph GPS had me at 110kph on 255/40 17, so again conservative Google says manufacturers need to set the speedo from 4 to 10% slower than actual road speed.....for safety.....and compliance  After doing some offset and clearance measurements to see what can fit the NC on 17x8 +40, without guard rolling or rubbing anything at my current ride height, I've decided that when my tyres are toast, I'm going to fit 225/45 17 and see where that gets me IRT actual speed of my speedo and GPS/radar From the online calculator I should be still be doing around 5kph under an actual 110kph when the speedo is showing 110kph My ADHD requires that when I'm doing 110kph on the speedo, that the actual road speed is actually really close to that, and not alot slower And going from 205 to 225 still keeps the car within the %/mm allowable in the NSW vehicle rules and regulations, which is nice, as long as I'm looking at the latest version that is.....LOL https://www.nsw.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-02/RMS-13.464-Light-vehicle-modifications-Vehicle-Standards-Information-No-6-November-2013.pdf
    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
×
×
  • Create New...