Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 66
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i have a gt-k 500 for my s15, im in the same boat as u are, yet to even put motor into car....

these turbos are supposed to spool up a minimum of 30% earlier that a garrett turbo that is 1 size bigger.... and turbonetics underrate thier turbos....

the gt-k850 you have there is rated to a minimum of 850 horsepower....

the dudes in the states recon that my engine setup on the sr20 will make 480hp at the wheels quite easily on aussie pump fuel..... abit crazy in a s15 but i love it... :mellow:

what power you aiming for???

Edited by den001

There's not really a power aim anymore! i was literally about to purchase an HKS TO4z kit, when i was told these were just about to come out. before i was aiming for around 460rwkw with the TO4z based on others' results. Apparently the GTK will push out more power with similar response to the TO4z, well at least thats the idea, its certainly rated higher. I think the GTK850 is like a T51R KAI, but with a 0.8 ex housing so should be decent response. Id be more than happy if we could see 800hp at the engine, but with a 0.8ex housing, i wouldnt bet on it, on race fuel maybe, but on pump, we will see.

rb26s13, you wont have to wait till its in the car to see results :) Its getting run-in then tuned on an engine dyno, so i will have a true "at the engine" HP figure. Im waiting on my Nismo plenum from greenline, then wiring up the motec. Once the plenum has arrived, if the workshop isnt flat out shouldnt be too far off.

cheers!

Yeah i figured the engine dyno run in would be pretty safe, plus i want to know as close as possible the actual engine output, without having to convert back from the wheels. Any one else done this on a new motor?

The Nismo plenum's in the mail, but have been discussing a single throttle plenum with my engine builder..

seems to be a large range, from under a grand for a greddy plenum, up to 3grand plus for a Jun. You get people swearing by a single throttle setup with a big single turbo, but then you get those showing big HP figures running a STOCK plenum.. So its a bit confusing. I recall Sydneykid telling me that with a MAP sensor based ECU such as what ill be using, that a single throttle will be much easier to tune.

Im just wondering if theres gonna be much of a trade off, 6throttle vs single throttle response wise? End of the day, the things built for power, so a single throttle makes sense. But its also more money, considering ive already bought the nismo plenum :mellow:

looks amazing bud :laugh:

hypertune now make a 6 throttle plenum, but theres no way in hell im paying the ~2.2k for a plenum :P

plus, the std's been shown to cater for big hp cars, just requires some fine tuning of the rear 3 injectors

P.S whats the pricing on them turbo's like?

  • 9 months later...

hi guys,

yet some more final touches... blk180 youre right, the hypertune plenum was the way to go!

heres from last time

gtrengine002.jpg

and today... the cam covers were colour matched to the turbonetics compressor housing. For some reason the camera flash makes the dark metallic paint on the turbo look whitish grey in the pics, but in real life its exactly the same as the cam covers appear below, nice.

allan_006a.jpg

and now i await the dyno...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
    • Ahh. Well the block damage is a problem, you really need to run a tap or thread chaser through it to see if the threads can be saved, but any chips are likely to be bottom end bound which is bad. Earls seem to have what you need if you want to stick with mounting direct on the block: https://rceperformance.com.au/parts/earls-straight-adapter-1-8-npt-male-to-1-8-bspt-female.html, but as I said above I'd recommend remote mounting the sender
    • I'm not quite understanding or I'm missing steps here, (I appreciate people are trying to inform my brain but I am of the dumb, especially today) - All I want to do is mount the male BSPT of the OEM sender into the system somewhere without it snapping the adapter via vibration. The Nissan sender has a male 1/8 BSPT output. The block has a (very destroyed) 1/8 NPT input. I'm not really sure how a lathe assists with that, and also don't know anybody with a lathe, nor specifically what I would want to buy. I'm not really sure how adding additional adapters creates a better, more leak proof resilient seal here.
×
×
  • Create New...