Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I would agree that is where the boost stabilizes to but I still claim to see 14psi on the initial application of throttle. I may have to go to the dyno to prove this.

So the ARX does have more boost than the RS-RX...... LOL.

or you have a leak in one of your hoses (thus bleeding off too much pressure) ?

I've not yet looked into how the M35 controls boost but I assume its similar to previous nissans where the wastegate opens at x psi and the hose that connects to it is plugged straight into the intake etc.

On the s1 and s2, the wastegate would open at 5psi and where more boost was needed, they just had a second hose coming off the first one and a solenoid would open/close this second hose. When open it would bleed ~2 psi off - so the wastegate then reads 2psi lower than the overall boost pressure, effectively raising overall boost by 2psi.

If you had a leak in this hose or anywhere on the connections, there would be less pressure and the wastegate would stay closed longer (thus the higher boost). There is no fancy electronic boost control on these cars. I believe the ECU uses a boost sensor to tell it what the boost pressure is, but it has no way of controlling it.

Just a thought, although its entirely possible the ARX runs more boost as standard.

M35 has a boost solenoid, as per almost every other turbo nissan made. its perfect for cutting boost incase of detonation. anyway, its not in series, its probably setup the same way as the C34. it bleeds off air to the wastegate actuator but its preset and youre right, it cant 'see' the boost its at, its a factory programmed setting.

his vacuum pipes looked fine when i had my head up the ass end of his motor a few weeks back

M35 has a boost solenoid, as per almost every other turbo nissan made. its perfect for cutting boost incase of detonation. anyway, its not in series, its probably setup the same way as the C34. it bleeds off air to the wastegate actuator but its preset and youre right, it cant 'see' the boost its at, its a factory programmed setting.

his vacuum pipes looked fine when i had my head up the ass end of his motor a few weeks back

:P

:D

Edited by iamhe77
I would agree that is where the boost stabilizes to but I still claim to see 14psi on the initial application of throttle. I may have to go to the dyno to prove this.

So the ARX does have more boost than the RS-RX...... LOL.

When I got mine back after getting my coilpacks replaced the job sheet said 14psi.

Some great news!!!

I made contact with a Russian company today that has done the conversion of the navigation system for the M35 & V35 from Japanese screens to Russian through an update to the firmware. They believe they could do the same for an english version but would require 20 - 30 units to convert to justify the investment.

The upside is that they are charging about $100 (not sure if this is US or Aust) in Russia to do the conversion.

We just need to work out if someone in Aust could do the install or if the units need to be sent to Russia. Lets think down the local avenue, who would know how to the install? Is this a Chris Rogers job?

I see light at the end of the tunnel.......... :P

Hi im a new member of SAU & a proud new owner of a 2001 Nissan Stagea ARX-4. Ive been reading SAU's Forums for months trying to find info on weather a Stagea would be a good buy. Well money well spent ,broke the car in buy doing a sydney to berry run, what a car

And also been studing the forums about the xanavi system that are built in these cars

Well put me in for a conversion, i'll be happy to join in to get the conversion happening.

:D

for those interested I can get ENGLISH buttons...

Hi chris i just bought myself a Nissan 2001 Stagea ARX-4

I know that the car comes with a Xanavi DVD Based Jap Sat, it also has the built in DTV, with the bose system

Id would love to get the whole system converted & Buy the replacble buttons too. Im in sydney but im planning to go to townsville barracks to see mates there. and pop in have a chat, Ive heard your a great supporter for stagea's and do audio work.

do you have a website i could browse, or how much for the replacement buttons

I would love to get my hands on that disc, does it convert the menu to english, i want it please replay if it does

Please if anyone has the software to convert M35 menu from Japanese to English, then i can buy the buttons from chris

Please Please Please Im a NooB oWneR of a Proud Stagea 2001

Please if anyone has the software to convert M35 menu from Japanese to English, then i can buy the buttons from chris

Please Please Please Im a NooB oWneR of a Proud Stagea 2001

the conversion should be ready around the 10th December.

I did the first conversion to my own car yesterday and all looks good. I will be checking all the pages and functions over the next 3 weeks and then we should be ready to offer this product to any one interested.

Keep an eye on this thread. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/So...html&st=520

Cheers

Andy

the conversion should be ready around the 10th December.

I did the first conversion to my own car yesterday and all looks good. I will be checking all the pages and functions over the next 3 weeks and then we should be ready to offer this product to any one interested.

Keep an eye on this thread. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/So...html&st=520

Cheers

Andy

Thanks Andy i'll keep waiting & i'll keep and eye on that thread

thanks

Bryan

Hi chris i just bought myself a Nissan 2001 Stagea ARX-4

I know that the car comes with a Xanavi DVD Based Jap Sat, it also has the built in DTV, with the bose system

Id would love to get the whole system converted & Buy the replacble buttons too. Im in sydney but im planning to go to townsville barracks to see mates there. and pop in have a chat, Ive heard your a great supporter for stagea's and do audio work.

do you have a website i could browse, or how much for the replacement buttons

:P Found your site

yep but things like buttons are not on there. they vary in price though. last set I bought were in the 4-500 region.

Thats fine chris, im still interested . PM me if you have a quote for a nissan 2001 satgea with TV, im heading to queensland with my wife around december, i'll let you know

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...