Jump to content
SAU Community

M35 Info

Brazen

By Brazen,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Jetwreck Grand Master

Jetwreck

Posted
Posted (edited)

Different car sure, but the thing about mass production is making things as similar as possible across the model range is the cheapest approach. I reckon the ECU's will function in the same way. Will search for the thread.

have a look through here http://m35stagea.info/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=43 ...you might be able to you ECU pinout and translate it to find the correct wire.

Edited by Jetwreck
  • Replies 2.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

nickcorr
nickcorr

Skyline Registrations in Japan: Bodystyle/Engine 3.7 Coupe 2.5 Sedan 3.5 Sedan 3.7 Sedan 3.7 SUV________Total Market cars... 09_____________983_______3,398______20_______860_____1,601_________

andy65b
andy65b

Not a bad result..

And
And

Ok, guys from Moscow approached me today. They have a "demo" version ready, now they need a brave person in Perth who's got a car DVD based Xanai unit (M35 Stagea or Skyline up to 2005). This gotta

Posted Images

Sunkist Grand Master

Sunkist

Posted
Posted

Cutting the wire in ours made the car sluggish after a while in some sort of limp mode, those of us with emanage controllers saw it possibly running lean so it may not be the answer just yet.

my case i think.. but arent sure.. just had a quick retune and everything came out better than before..

chad bob Enthusiast

chad bob

Posted
Posted (edited)

I plan on installing a switch.

So I can actually launch and then turn it back on again.

I actually asked this in another post, but where does the BPP wire connect as an input? Is there a switch on the brake pedal with one wire for brake lights and one for the ECU? If so I'd just attack the issue at that end rather than trying to do it from an ECU pinout diagram (that I can't find pinch.gif )

Edited by chad bob
scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Q: Can some one please inform me of a suitable jacking point/points at the front of an M35 so I can work on the front suspension...

I only use the front jacking point under the passenger seat usually, then chock the rear jacking point with a stand, another stand under the front lower control arm bush. Then I move the jack to another spot so its not in the way but still under the side rail for fall protection.

Mirror then for the other side but you will need 4 stands.

JayM35 Collaborator

JayM35

Posted
Posted

I guess this falls under general info.

Don't bother trying to do a burnout in your RWD M35. Computer says no.

It will limit revs to about 1500rpm and you will sit there doing absolutely nothing. :domokun:

Before anyone asks why one would bother. Was at the gokart track and it's manditory to do a skid whilst exiting.

What? lol No problems here..... Toyo T1R 245/45/18s.... Easy spin. Just needs a 2 way.

donutdavid Community Regular

donutdavid

Posted
Posted

hey boys,

My stag is geting some TLC done on monday as in diff front rear, trans, transfer case, radiator fluid and I have

decided to go with nissan oil (7.5-30w)/ filter combo and of course flush beforehand.

Is there anything else I should replace? Wondering about timing belt/ water pump and plugs when should that be done.

Car has 75ks on the dial.

Also you know those three dials in the dash torque? battery, boost. The first one seems like its not moving at all is that normal?

Please forgive my lack of knowlidge some of take this as common stuff.

Thanks for your feedback. :thumbsup:

Dave

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

If you do a flush its good practice to dump the new oil after a few hundred so as you never get it all out. Just put some cheapie oil in there for a few days.

M35 doesnt have a cam belt its a chain, water pump should be fine but plugs will probably be shagged.

Dash torque gauge will only move a little on breaking traction or high G's as our cars are rear drive for the most part.

donutdavid Community Regular

donutdavid

Posted
Posted

Thanks for clearing that up Scotty it all makes sense now. :rolleyes:

Do you think that nissans 7-30w oil is good choice, whats everyone else using?

I know 300v is best which I use in gtr but 90 for 4 lt is a bit rough for frequent oil change.

nissan is 55 bucks for 5 lt.

Cheers

Dave

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Bireley_32
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By Bireley_32 · Posted

      Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • MBS206
      Starting again

      By MBS206 · Posted

      The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...