Jump to content
SAU Community

New Twin Plate Clutch, Very Bad In Rush Hour Traffic

nsta
 Share

Recommended Posts

Abo Bob Grand Master

Abo Bob

Posted
Posted
If I drive my GTR often, the ORC twin plate is great. It's only when I'm not thinking that it bites me.

The most annoying part about it that's dificuilt is that the friction point is more than half way out on the clutch pedal.... so you have to keep releasing your foot to almost the end of the pedal travel. That makes it hard to find and hit's as a surprise sometimes.

If it was closer to the firewall, it would be so so so much easier.

However, I've fallen in love with the clutch and wouldn't go for anything else now.

I didn't realise you'd bought a GTR Tommo.

My clutch was like this until about a week ago. I adjusted it at the pedal. I had to loosen the bolts holing the master cylinder to the firewall to make room but yeah, do that then take the pin out of the pedal connecting to the rod and shorten it there. Put the pin back in, re tighten the nuts holding the master on and happy days are yours. :)

  • Replies 94
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Nismo_God
Nismo_God

in the same boat....from stock clutch to twin plate....but doesnt take too long to get used to.....but its pretty embarasing stalling a gtr...

VSPEC-33
VSPEC-33

I thought the nismo clutch was supposed to give you 'stock feel' and be very 'driveable'. I was hoping to get away from the on/off style of the old clutch. I guess i'll find out in a few weeks..... i

Beer Baron
Beer Baron

no it's the opposite. decrease in effort means decrease in travel too. basically it's a larger bore slave so for a given pedal movement it travels less distance now (but with less effort) that is the

Posted Images

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted
I didn't realise you'd bought a GTR Tommo.

My clutch was like this until about a week ago. I adjusted it at the pedal. I had to loosen the bolts holing the master cylinder to the firewall to make room but yeah, do that then take the pin out of the pedal connecting to the rod and shorten it there. Put the pin back in, re tighten the nuts holding the master on and happy days are yours. :)

You do it the long way around Adam.

All you have to do is: undo the 12mm nut that locks the shaft and then use a little offset spanner ( i cant remember the size but I think 5/32) , turn the shaft then lock the 12 mm nut again , takes about 2 minutes. It takes me longer to find the correct size spanner than to do the job!!

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted
Oh no way! Dammit!!!! Now I know. haha.

I know exactly what you mean but didn't think of it myself dammit.

You can always ask mate .. Ah well you know for next time ....Keep in mind that in all cars its an easy to do job, a bit like changing a light globe, you should never have to remove the light assembly to do it....

TommO Grand Master

TommO

Posted
Posted
I didn't realise you'd bought a GTR Tommo.

My clutch was like this until about a week ago. I adjusted it at the pedal. I had to loosen the bolts holing the master cylinder to the firewall to make room but yeah, do that then take the pin out of the pedal connecting to the rod and shorten it there. Put the pin back in, re tighten the nuts holding the master on and happy days are yours. :happy:

I only bought it a couple of weeks ago actually... got sick of the evo, it's great to be back in a skyline... albeit a slightly quicker one this time :P

Thanks for the advice on the clutch - i'll have a look at that option this weekend.

VSPEC-33 Community Regular

VSPEC-33

Posted
Posted
im good at driving the twin plate, just hill starts to always get me, i always have to concentrate, and even then i stall!, i hate it, any tips for hill starts, im gnna take my car to a quiet area with a hill, and start praticing!

I reckon the 'ol handbrake hill start is the easiest. Keep the handbrake on (no foot brake) and feed out the clutch until the rpm drops a smidge and you can feel the xar move a fraction. Then at the same time, release h/b give it a touch more throttle and feed out the clutch, and woila! you're away......

You can go with the excess throttle and clutch dump, but that attract a bit too much attention at times :wave:

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted
I reckon the 'ol handbrake hill start is the easiest. Keep the handbrake on (no foot brake) and feed out the clutch until the rpm drops a smidge and you can feel the xar move a fraction. Then at the same time, release h/b give it a touch more throttle and feed out the clutch, and woila! you're away......

You can go with the excess throttle and clutch dump, but that attract a bit too much attention at times :wave:

Are you serious? Handbake starts are for learners only . If you can't take off without resorting to handbrake buy a subaru liberty, they have a built in hill start , you can't roll back !!!

VSPEC-33 Community Regular

VSPEC-33

Posted
Posted
Are you serious? Handbake starts are for learners only . If you can't take off without resorting to handbrake buy a subaru liberty, they have a built in hill start , you can't roll back !!!

Unless you can find the precise spot halfway up the travel of the pedal where there is 1cm of movement from off to on; without going too far and stalling it, or too slowly and youve just rolled into the car thats up your arse.... All clutches werent created equal, some are harder to drive than others, as its not my daily driver i dont know the car inside and out. We cant all be perfect. The handbrake works so it use, less rpm, no rolling backwards, less clutch wear.

nsta Mentor

nsta

Posted
  • Author
Posted

"Unless you can find the precise spot halfway up the travel of the pedal where there is 1cm of movement from off to on; without going too far and stalling it, or too slowly and youve just rolled into the car thats up your arse.... All clutches werent created equal, some are harder to drive than others, as its not my daily driver i dont know the car inside and out. We cant all be perfect. The handbrake works so it use, less rpm, no rolling backwards, less clutch wear"

very well said, though i use mine day in day out, and most hill starts i dnt need the handbrake for , those steep hills though, man they are a bi#ch to start on!try paralell parking on a hill with a car infront and behind, now that takes some effort on a twin plate clutch hahaha

sh@un Grand Master

sh@un

Posted
Posted

A friend of mine had one of these Coppermix twins in his 32 GT-R- It was heeeaps nicer to use in traffic than my old Exedy twin.

I'm sure you'll get used to it.

4drlvr Proficient

4drlvr

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys,

Ive got a HKS twin plate in mine and before i read this article i though i was the only one who used to stall it....

As for the friction point is right up the top.

WRXHOON, with the 12mm nut i take that off and do i turn the shaft clockwise or anti-clock wise........sorry if this was a silly question....

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted
Hi Guys,

Ive got a HKS twin plate in mine and before i read this article i though i was the only one who used to stall it....

As for the friction point is right up the top.

WRXHOON, with the 12mm nut i take that off and do i turn the shaft clockwise or anti-clock wise........sorry if this was a silly question....

You don't take the 12mm nut off ( you can't take it off even if you want to) you undo it a little so you unlock the shaft.

Depending on what you want to do with the pick up point, if you want to lower the pick up point you shorten the shaft and lengthen it if you want the clutch to grab higher.Keep in mind one turn of the shaft will make a fair bit of difference .

  • 8 months later...
pekkis Newbie

pekkis

Posted
Posted

Iam now driving with exedy gay triple plate, it is gayest clutch ever. you let the pedal up... and then... nothing nothing nothing nothing and then ALL are in. Dont even want to get used to it. I bought nismo coppermix twin and nismo slave cylinder. I will get them in 2 weeks. Hope it is easier to go. Someone are saying nismo coppermix twin is on/off clutch, and someone says it is very driveable in traffic.... so what is it like??

Ant97GTR Grand Master

Ant97GTR

Posted
Posted
....I bought nismo coppermix twin and nismo slave cylinder.

Interesting....I have just installed one of these clutches and when reading the documentation it specifies not to use the Nismo slave cylinder due to lack of stroke volume.

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted (edited)
Interesting....I have just installed one of these clutches and when reading the documentation it specifies not to use the Nismo slave cylinder due to lack of stroke volume.

I have a Nismo twin coppermix in my car, Its the best twin I have ever used in any car. You can drive it in taffic very easy but don't expect it to be same as a normal full face clutch , its very close to it though. Don' t ride it and it will last you a long time . I have a the Nismo slave as well and makes feel more progressive , no issues with travel.

Edited by wrxhoon

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • hoodedreeper
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By hoodedreeper · Posted

      Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • hoodedreeper
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By hoodedreeper · Posted

      It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
×
×
  • Create New...