Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
I'm afraid Brembos are no longer exclusive to 6MT owners... here's mine 350gt Premium with 5sp AT-x...

you've also got cross-drilled and slotted rotors which confirms that you have had brake work of some kind and suggests they have been changed

Changed or not changed that doesn't matter or worry me a bit, they're 100% OEM brembo calipers and will perform just as good as when they came out of the factory. I could always put the standard plain OEM rotors back on if that makes you happier....

If the OEM rotors are not worn I would have kept them on, the stock ones are starting to squeal a bit and there are scores on the rotors surface.

As I am organising group buy on these rotors and pads, it feels funny if I never had tried any of the rotors or pads before, so I thought what the heck, just get a set of the top end grooved & dimpled rotors and the redstuff street pads and try how they go. Rotors were swapped by Race Brakes @ Yarraville, all done professionally, plus brake fluid flush and bleed with DOT5. Result is very smooth and very quiet brakes, in both light or hard braking.

Changed or not changed that doesn't matter or worry me a bit, they're 100% OEM brembo calipers and will perform just as good as when they came out of the factory.

totally agree, one helluva upgrade!

and if anyone knows brakes then you do..

Changed or not changed that doesn't matter or worry me a bit, they're 100% OEM brembo calipers and will perform just as good as when they came out of the factory. I could always put the standard plain OEM rotors back on if that makes you happier....

If the OEM rotors are not worn I would have kept them on, the stock ones are starting to squeal a bit and there are scores on the rotors surface.

As I am organising group buy on these rotors and pads, it feels funny if I never had tried any of the rotors or pads before, so I thought what the heck, just get a set of the top end grooved & dimpled rotors and the redstuff street pads and try how they go. Rotors were swapped by Race Brakes @ Yarraville, all done professionally, plus brake fluid flush and bleed with DOT5. Result is very smooth and very quiet brakes, in both light or hard braking.

Good stuff... just one question though isn't Dot 5 fluid Silicon based, which can (and does) swell seals and O-rings in the system?

I have always used Dot 5.1, which I am led to believe is not based on Silicone.

I heard that too. Just can't remember which one is which. Then it is DOT 5.1

I'm not good at remembering the 'decimals' point... I believe any good brake shops won't fill my reservoir with DOT 5, it should be DOT 5.1 then.

I heard that too. Just can't remember which one is which. Then it is DOT 5.1

I'm not good at remembering the 'decimals' point... I believe any good brake shops won't fill my reservoir with DOT 5, it should be DOT 5.1 then.

Yep, most shops that I know of want to use Dot 4, in fact Dot 5.1 is a very strange request. I doubt anyone would offer Dot 5 and if they do, I would be leaving....

Anyway, I always bring my own purchased from a motorbike shop. I think most of them would have it at about $18 per 500ml bottle, which will easily do a flush, including the clutch.

If you need a full change 2 bottles is normally enough.

My brand that I trust is Motul 5.1, which I think used to be called (or still is) EBF600 or something similar.

Edited by Stephen Thorpe
  • 3 weeks later...

Just add another question - Does the sun visor on the non-premium ones have a light when you look at the vanity mirrors? or is this a premium or dealer option only?

My observations tend to go with what has already been said:

Premium = BOSE + wheel controls + Dual Zone.

BTW that MOMO wheel that Ben from J-spec posted - I think that is mine from my Silver V35 Manual... :P Hey Ben you did not send me the shots with your legs in it when you sent me the inspection pics! I feel ripped off now! :kiss:

  • 4 months later...
there are many different specs and many different options that could be added on..

"premium pack" models come with

- leather/suede in black or full leather in light grey / cream (for 70th aniversary models)

- bose stereo upgrade

- dual climate control

- auto-off headlights

- steering-wheel controls for radio

"track spec" models come with:

- brembo brakes

- LSD

Note: ONLY available on manual transmission equipped 03-05 models

"sport" models come with

- different front bumper with larger air intakes

- momo steering wheel (i don't like it personally)

- 19" rays wheels - 5-spoke

options that can be installed from the factory or from the dealer that are NOT part of premium or track or sport models include:

- sunroof

- spoiler

- mud guards / rear pods

- 18" wheels - 7-spoke

- nav system

- reversing pack: rear camera + fold-down mirrors for reverse

- dealer-installed DVD player separate to the nav DVD rom (rare)

- AC power source

- floor mats

- toll card reader in upper glovebox

- immobiliser with shock sensors (can be seen on top of dash)

Has anyone heard of a 'Nismo edition' v35??

might've been one of those American 'Track' ones- not too sure.

the one in question is 2004 5AT Standard- comes with Brembos, VDC, Nismo exhaust, momo steering wheel and Bilstein shocks. It also comes with BOSE stereo-- BUT NO LEATHER/SUEDE seats.

Can anyone shed any light on what this model is actually called (IF it actually is a Nismo model or just one with factory extras)? where it was sold (JAP/US)?

Cheers

I Believe the Only thing can be called a Nismo Version if it has the S-Tune.

S-tune consisting the Intake Filter, Spark plugs, Ecu Tuning and Exhaust i think.

But if not people can just buy the Nismo exhaust and called it Nismo Edition or sort.

I would not buy it!

Appears like the basic bottom of the range Auto version of the car with a Nismo wheel only and then some other aftermarket stuff.

That car has been for sale for more than 12 months.

Note it is missing the cold air intake plastic from the front of the engine bay... not sure why you would deliberately remove this so I would assume accident damage?

3719371.jpg

Not sure on the yellow wires either...

Also they used to have good pictures but now the pictures offered are of totally random cars - not the same one - never trust someone who does this! (different wheels, one with a spoiler one without...)

Then there is now the picture of 3 cars??

I half think the guy has maybe sold the original car but has imported another or even 2 more and is trying to use his original add to sell the next couple - hence why the photos have changed.

One car (with the factory 18's) appears to be of a manual! The aftermarket wheels are fitted to the "Nismo" one - the Auto...

My 6 speed manual has more of a "sports edition" to it than that car - Nismo rear spoiler - the big one not a lip one nor the flat one, the nismo wheel and the front lip.

WOW great pick-up ShadowKnyght!! yeh i was wondering why there are pictures of three different cars in the one ad- abit sus to me.

and yes this particular car has been advertised for a while now with several price drops- again a little bit sus

im interested in actually checking it out n comparing the car with other v35s. il post my reflections on the test drive

  • 1 month later...

heres the jp site for coupe specs...

http://translate.google.com/translate?prev...history_state0=

premium

leather/suede

bose + steering wheel control

dual climate

HOWEVER, bose and dual climate can be optioned as well!

it says premiums have 19" standard..which is weird... LOL

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
×
×
  • Create New...