Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

if you wanna buy a turbo but can't coz of p-plate laws etc then don't get a n/a skyline!!

trust me you'll get sick of it pretty quickly, everytime you drive next a turbo skyline you'll be like oh wish my skyline was turbo etc...

as others already said get something else, maybe a GTi corolla or something like that. even a v6 commo would be alright and would go harder than a N/A skyline

good luck :whoops:

  • Replies 66
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

for all you peoples that are bagging out n/a's STOP IT

UR ARE FULL OF SHITE! i own a r34 n/a and i love her to bits, i could have brought a gtt but i didnt want to, i didnt want to wrap myself around a tree...................people on there p's should learn how to drive first, so if it means getting a n/a so be it. there are too many kids getting off there p's going and getting high powered turbo cars and either killing themselves or having a very serious accident.

if you have nothing nice to say about non turbo then SHUT THE F#@K UP, i hate turbo cars but i will not bag them out. respect peoples decisions and their rides.

first of all - you don't have to be over 30 years old to know how to drive a fast car

2nd - you don't have to be driving a powerful car to wrap yourself around a pole

3rd - learning to drive in a piece of shit and then driving a powerful car is the same as going straight on to a fast car.

why "learn how to drive" in a slow gutless car when you can learn in a faster car and speed up your driving skills?

you can kill yourself even when riding a pushbike. you don't have to be driving an veyron to be in danger on the roads...

THe first post.. I thought it was pretty obvious. You said skyline's (One would assume you mean all) lack the qualities for good track/twisty work..

Does Bathurst mean anything to you? The list goes on.. I'm not here to say skyline's are some ultimate machine.

Someone needs to invent a version of Godwin's Law for Skyline otaku and calling Bathurst. :whoops: It also conveniently ignores the fact that the Nissan teams had a much higher budget than most of the teams driving local machinery (the GT-R was a 911-priced vehicle racing against Holdens and Fords), which helps a great deal in racing.

Were you going to break out the old story that the GT-R was the first "production car" to break 8 minutes at the Nordschleife too? Sure it wasn't actually in production trim, but don't let that get in the way of a good yarn.

Secondly, one would only assume I "mean all Skylines" if they were incapable of understanding context. Try reading my post again, this time at a high school level of English.

My first paragraph clearly says that I'm talking about NA Skylines, and is a pretty short summary. The second paragraph goes into a bit more depth. Especially since the post I quoted is specifically limited to talking about non-turbo Skylines and I was replying directly to that.

Buy a datto 1600.... N/a but light, heaps of fun, easy to mod and you won't lose money on it. Buy a turbo (real :whoops:) Skyline when you can legally drive it.

No offence to na drivers, just my 2c

i didnt want to wrap myself around a tree

You shouldn't have bought a RWD car, then.

With a FWD car you're more likely to go head-first into a tree, but a RWD's greater tendency to oversteer means "wrapping" is a more likely scenario.

if you have nothing nice to say about non turbo then SHUT THE F#@K UP, i hate turbo cars but i will not bag them out. respect peoples decisions and their rides.

You haven't been on the Internet for very long, have you?

This is a discussion forum. That means you're going to get discussions, which will have multiple points of view. If you've got a problem with other people's opinions (and you can't respect their decision to vocalise them) you can always be proactive and unsubscribe from the thread.

I started with an N14 pulsar. Pretty quick for a hatch (had Sr20) and if you do some suspension work it can be heapsa fun. Because it felt heaps quicker around the twisties than my r32 gts-t does. Oh and there dirt cheap, I sold mine for 7k with a heap of mods.

You shouldn't have bought a RWD car, then.

With a FWD car you're more likely to go head-first into a tree, but a RWD's greater tendency to oversteer means "wrapping" is a more likely scenario.

You haven't been on the Internet for very long, have you?

This is a discussion forum. That means you're going to get discussions, which will have multiple points of view. If you've got a problem with other people's opinions (and you can't respect their decision to vocalise them) you can always be proactive and unsubscribe from the thread.

My point of view.. You are portraying N/A skylines completely negatively, when there are many positives.

Secondly.. You are gay lol thread over, I directed the first insult, a Mod should snap on this now and close it.

:sorcerer:

Ok, let's just say that skylines overall are great cars.... but a turbo RB will always be quicker and therefore more fun than an NA. Please don't start arguing about modified NAs with everything done to them.... forced induction = more power = more fun. They really are too heavy for a small capacity NA motor, so go for something a bit more exciting and lighter.... I might get flamed for this, but v-tec Honda's are fun and P-plate legal.... but I still say go the 1600.

LOL

I'm glad I got my P plates before the laws kicked in,

I'll be even more glad when I get off them in feb.

If you really want a skyline, get a skyline! I had an N/A R33 before my GT-T and it was a good car

night time curfews suck hard :)

My point of view.. You are portraying N/A skylines completely negatively, when there are many positives.

Given that we're talking about this:

I could care less about straight line power..Twisties/track is where the real fun is at.

I'm struggling to think of one "positive" a NA Skyline has. Especially when Kevin84 was initially asking if he should buy a NA Skyline over other NA vehicles he could consider.

I'll concur that the NA Skyline, having less weight up the front, should turn in and change direction a little better than a turbo Skyline (all else being equal) and will have far better throttle response and more linear power delivery but, compared to the other NA cars Kevin said he was considering the GTS has still got a big, long, cast iron lump hanging past the front struts. And a pretty long wheelbase. It doesn't add up to a car that's going to want to change directions.

As a car for the twisties, I'm not seeing the positives over an SR20DE powered S13, Pulsar SSS, a EK Civic DC2 Integra VTiR, Mazda MX5, or a Peugeot 205 GTi (all of which should be starting at around the AUD$10K mark). If you're not caring about straight line power, the cars I've listed are far more chuckable by virtue of their weight and short wheelbase.

Go to $15K range and you're into RenaultSport Clio territory, which has the R33 GTS (and most production cars) beat on the ability to get from one end of the twisties to the other in the least amount of time, while putting the biggest smile on the dial.

So, as a twisties/track car (and, for the latter, trust me when I tell you that you need power) what positive does the GTS have?

So, as a twisties/track car (and, for the latter, trust me when I tell you that you need power) what positive does the GTS have?

A good base by which to start for those new to the skyline scene. It is an average track/twist car at best, but that's what you pay for. You're mistaken if you think I've made it out as some awesome track machine.

Other benefits include

- The looks of a skyline

- The potential to be a reasonably competitive track/streeter with work (suspension etc or even a turbo for a nice high comp hard pulling car with minimal lag.

- Most of the features that many other skylines have.. LSD, ATTESA etc

- Better fuel economy than most other turbo cars out there under the same price range

- A great base for those new to the skyline scene, to learn the inner workings of RB'S and the rest of the car come time to buying a turbo if you want.

- Cheaper to insure

- Lower maint costs

You need to stop looking at the GTS as a car by which you want to get the absolute most out of for street/track performance.

And on a side note they're great fun to wipe the smile's off rx8 owner's faces :)

they are a good starting point as a first car, respond well to suspension mods, and have alot of variety in aftermarket bits.

it's a good stepping stone if you intend on going for something with more power down the line - and admittedly you can never have enough.

definitely would be in a much better position going from an na skyline to a 200+rwkw rwd car, than someone who's gone from a corolla into a 200+rwkw car.

it's a progressive thing that builds on both the car and driver. the myriad of parts available is definitely a buying factor to consider, back then it was more financially viable to sell an NA and buy a GTST. with all the turbo motors getting rebuilt nowadays, along with a large supply of caliper/rotor combos available; you can do all the suspension mods you want while on Ps, and rebuild a motor to throw in when you're off onto opens.

Buy a shitbox gemini or something that will be cheap to replace when you write it off.

p platers are shit drivers. Fact.

now lets not have a bunch of 18 year olds come in here and complain about that comment like i just f**ked their mum.

why do insurance companies have p plate excesses? Cause p platers crash too often. It takes a few years to really be safe on the roads. Not a few weeks.

i wrote off my first car, as did many people i know and would always recommend buying something cheap as a first car.

Buy a shitbox gemini or something that will be cheap to replace when you write it off.

p platers are shit drivers. Fact.

now lets not have a bunch of 18 year olds come in here and complain about that comment like i just f**ked their mum.

why do insurance companies have p plate excesses? Cause p platers crash too often. It takes a few years to really be safe on the roads. Not a few weeks.

i wrote off my first car, as did many people i know and would always recommend buying something cheap as a first car.

Isn't one of the guys racing in V8 Supercars on their P's (probably off by now, but he was doing pretty well when he was still on P's). ;)

dont get a non turbo skyline on your Ps. Save the money that would have been wasted on insurance for when your off your Ps and can legal drive a turbo.

and if youd like to know, after 3 years on full comp, its about $7k on insurance...

get something thats cheap and only need 3rd party insurance to cover you. like perhaps a VP Commodore for just an example. $250 insurance per year 3rd party. can find them for about $2k+.

add what you saved on buying a commodore and what you saved on insurance... thats a fair bit of cash!!!

Edited by Freddy Kruger
Other benefits include

OK, lets go through your "benefits as a twisties/track vehicle".

The looks of a skyline

Oh-kay. How does "looks" make it go any faster through the twisties or track? :D

-The potential to be a reasonably competitive track/streeter with work (suspension etc or even a turbo for a nice high comp hard pulling car with minimal lag.

I'm still not seeing how a big, fat, front heavy, car is still better than a lighter and shorter car as a base for modifying. Its not like the Silvia or Integra are missing a solid aftermarket range, and so they can get suspension work done.

You've still yet to address my concerns that the Skyline's too long and with far too much engine in front of the front struts to have good steering response, and a lot heavier than its competitors which punishes it under brakes, on turn-in, and exacerbates the front heaviness problem when trying to change direction through a set of switchbacks.

The only way you can really "fix" that is to install a shorter, lighter motor. Which defeats the purpose of buying the Skyline in the first place.

-Most of the features that many other skylines have.. LSD, ATTESA etc

He's not comparing it to other Skylines. He's comparing it to other cars.

-Better fuel economy than most other turbo cars out there under the same price range

- Cheaper to insure

- Lower maint costs

Once again, pretty much irrelevant to your "great for twisties" assertion.

- A great base for those new to the skyline scene, to learn the inner workings of RB'S

OK, so its a great car if you want a career as a mechanic. Its got sweet f**k all to do with being a good car for the winding road.

You need to stop looking at the GTS as a car by which you want to get the absolute most out of for street/track performance.

I will, once you take back your comment that its actually any good for street/track performance.

Half the examples you've given above is that its cheap, not fast.

And on a side note they're great fun to wipe the smile's off rx8 owner's faces

I can do that in a Mazda2 or Pulsar SSS, which don't even look like a sports cars and so are even more offensive when the RX-8 driver gets chopped.

You seriously don't know what the word context means, do you? Kevin's question is if should he buy a NA Skyline over other NA sports cars, not why he shouldn't not buy it. You've given reasons why the GTS isn't that bad, not why its better than a Silvia, Clio, Integra etc. You say its good for twisties/track, something I asked you to clarify since the laws of physics are against you, and your above "benefits" do nothing to prove it.

Edited by scathing

He's asked if he should get an NA R33/R34, and I say why not? They did make them for a reason.

I don't see why all the 'turbo owners' are saying to get a run around car for 2 years then 'upgrade', like owning an NA is some kind of taboo. (I am just generalizing with 'turbo owners' here).

Get real, a car is a car... and a non turbo skyline is that. Despite its age, it will out perform any 'run around car' and provide a solid foundation for any type of motorsport the owner chooses to do. Not to mention it's a fundamental stepping stone in providing the skills and know-how in what everyone calls 'upgrading'.

Extreme case senario; hold off on buying the 'oh so wonderful GTR' and just get a run around car, then upgrade in 50 years into your pagani zonda.

I may seem bitter, but I'm not. I can afford owning a gtst/gtr - i just choose not to. The R33 GTS does everything I require of it. If anything I've probably seen more track time than many 300HP gtst owners, so what is it exactly that you have the turbo for then? (Again generalizing with the turbo).

If we can skip all the garbage in regards to turbo vs. na; it's a never ending arguement - you will see that there's absolutely nothing wrong with owning one. I've driven a turbo, I like the turbo, but I don't feel as though I need a turbo - it's a personal preference, and people have to stop pushing their own ideals onto others.

If we can skip all the garbage in regards to turbo vs. na

But, if I don't keep trying to tell people that NA is best, they'll never learn!

I thought about it, and if I could afford two cars (daily driver runabout and a dedicated sports car) I'd get the runabout with a turbo, set up for fuel economy like the Saabs or turbo diesels) and get the sports car as NA, for the responsiveness. A dedicated sports car will be ultra lightweight anyway, so I don't need power.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...