Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i agree!! :) the difference light, slicks & talent!! none of which mark has. lol

Hey Russ you certainly got my attention and it seems many many others in the Jap import car world. Now I have to spend more time and mondey to get near your times. Awesome time for Semi slicks and with good slicks you would take at least a second off that, so right up there and still no aero on the car and other things you can do. You sure that trasponder was not moved to help your times???. He he.

Now go do it in Japan and fly the Aussie flag. Tough competition over there not just a zed boat to beat, some serious cars. Will be interesting.

  • Replies 705
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

well the ol Beer Baron is revved up too. just finally got my arse into gear last night and booked my flights. I hit Tokyo on the 29th and staying bout 2 weeks.

Just trying to decide if I should wear an australian flag as a toga or a nappy? not sure which will go over better with the japanese people attending. maybe the toga as it will be a bit nippy in the first week of december. lol.

This threads a cack :D Should have some... 'interesting' supporters!! :P

All the best guys, can not wait to see how you go over there!!

Good luck!!

Edited by swanny180

Read HPI today with that Garage Ito GTR........53 seconds.....thats pretty insane, hope you guys go well and beat them.

Are you entering in the same class as that car? or the street class with air con and cd?

Read HPI today with that Garage Ito GTR........53 seconds.....thats pretty insane, hope you guys go well and beat them.

Are you entering in the same class as that car? or the street class with air con and cd?

yeah - the open class :thumbsup:

Best of luck guys, gonna be highly competitive over there with some high quality cars.. You running slicks? or semi's? not sure what the rules are for the time attack..

Can't wait for the Best Motoring/JDM Option time attack to come out..

Found this, some other competition from outside Japan..

http://www.zenperformance.co.uk/p/team-zen-2007#japan

And Subaru sponsored a team from the US..

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1357814

If you see Keiichi Tsuchiya, let him have a drive :thumbsup:

If you see Keiichi Tsuchiya, let him have a drive :thumbsup:

forget KT, if you see the infamous beer baron let him have a steer. he has balls like a rhino and is not afraid to back your car into the wall then give you constructive criticism about your cars brakes.

Hey Russ, what do you think of your STACK cluster mate? I'm tossing up between a STACK 8130 and an MXL PISTA at the moment, and not sure which way to go.

Cheers

Dane

hey dane

love the stack, really easy to read!!

all warnings really visible, just make sure you get the model you want with all the right sensors and readings that you require.

cheers russ

Thanks for the tip Russ.

I was contemplating the stack as it looks really easy to read, as well as having the analogue tacho which I think would be easier on the fly, but the cost of it to have the same sort of functionality of an MXL is up there...

Cheers

Dane

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...