Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys i have a question for you people. I got a job as a mechanic apprentice and i start tomorrow. My dad is pushing me not to do it and get into something else because of the money and future. When do you think motor cars will be phased out and replaced with electric cars? What will happen to motor mechanics then.... Give me your honest opinion before i screw my life over and get into an industry that wont last!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187362-cars-running-on-power/
Share on other sites

i wouldnt be too worried about the cars being phased out, they will still be around for more than the next 40 years (your working life) although i love cars i didnt go into that industry because the money isnt so good, its pretty dirty work (not a real big issue) and theres so many of them around, which makes it harder to find work, and will keep the pay rates low IMO.

i personally am doing my boilermaker apprenticeship atm, because i dont mind fabrication and its something i wanted to learn, if i was to do anything else, probly plumbing (good conditions, pay etc).

the other thing is, all my mates that have become mechanics, they've all lost the passion and cbf workin on they're own cars, and as a guy that i work with told me 'working on cars is my hobby, i'll do it when/how i want to' and it makes sense to me. obviously you wont be pro right away, but i've found theres always plenty of people out there to help/show you things, and i've learned alot of things this way

that said your starting tomorow so do it and see what you think of it, if you like it, stay with it. just find something you enjoy and the money will come

Well i did my plumbing pre-apprenticeship at the start of the year, but i had 2 operations on my right knee late last year. It hasn't healed properly and i don't know if it ever will, and i cant fully bend down because it feels like it's about to f**king explode. I thought go do another trade, but didn't know what because Air Con's/Sparkies/Plumbers/Carpenters are constantly on their knee's. Mechanics/Panel beaters aren't, but the money's f**ked!

After 20 minutes of depressing thoughts, i think i will just go into the workshop tomorrow, and embarrass myself by telling the boss i'm backing out for certain reasons. Next step: working out my knee overtime and starting plumbing by the end of the year. f**kin digging my ass off, and f**king my knee harder for my first year... how exciting!

dw mate. their is a thing called economic engineering. basically all cars "in general" are designed to last 20 years. As for electric cars, the process of making the Li batt on a large scale is still expensive to be widely used in automotive industry. its still too heavy and inefficient.

my advice is focus on the electrical side of things to the automotive industry as everything is becoming automated.

The only downfall I can think of is the fact that the authorities are so strict now on modified Sports cars... so if you're a mechanic in general I wouldn't worry; but if you are in modification of sports cars... there may be a downfall here.

Cheers,

My dad is pushing me not to do it and get into something else because of the money and future. When do you think motor cars will be phased out and replaced with electric cars?

Is your dad a tree hugging hippy with a severe reality disconnect?

The state of electric cars right now is shit. Most of them have a really shit range, and because electric motors lack the power / energy storage capacity they have to be made light. Which, for a budget car, means flimsy.

The only production pure electric car out there I'm aware of is the G-Wiz, and when their crash test results look like this:

advgwiz.gif

There was an interview in last season's Top Gear with Kirsten Scott Thomas, who owns a G-Wiz, and she said that the electrical system in the car's so pissweak that you can't use the wipers and headlights at the same time. With that kind of "safety", I don't think internal combustion is going to be in any danger in the near future.

If you have a look at the future of automotive energy sources, you'll see that only a few people are trying to go pure electric. Most are either looking at biofuels, or hydrogen. Both are still internal combustion, the only difference is the fuel used. The basic principles are still the same. In this day and age, you can't expect that you only need to learn 3 years' worth of knowledge and expect it to last you to retirement.

u can still work as a mechanic and not have a licence. my mate is a mechanic and he lost his licence for 3 months.

as for the money, it isn't that bad. it just depends on where you work. my mate was only getting paid for hours booked (not a set amount of hours per week) and he was making about $1000 a week. there are a lot of jobs with less pay than that, retail for example. full adults wage of just over $500 a week for 38 hours.

what about an auto electrician?

They get paid about the same as mechanics, in some cases more

Do an apprenticeship

basically start off with the small stuff, installing alarms, stereos, speakers etc

Then you move onto wiring up engine looms, powerFCs etc

Then you get to go into tuning them eventually :rolleyes:

I reckon do that, that'll keep your dad quiet about the "electric cars" thing, because you'll be positioned to move straight onto those :( if that ever becomes common place over the next 20-30 years, which somehow i doubt at the moment, but I could be proven wrong

what about an auto electrician?

They get paid about the same as mechanics, in some cases more

Do an apprenticeship

basically start off with the small stuff, installing alarms, stereos, speakers etc

Then you move onto wiring up engine looms, powerFCs etc

Then you get to go into tuning them eventually :rolleyes:

I reckon do that, that'll keep your dad quiet about the "electric cars" thing, because you'll be positioned to move straight onto those :( if that ever becomes common place over the next 20-30 years, which somehow i doubt at the moment, but I could be proven wrong

^^ +11ty

most sensible post yet IMO.

DEFINATELY go with the sparky side of things. Its less dirty, alot more technically challenging and the sparking side of things is becoming more and more a "black arts" area which means more specialization and higher charge rates.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...