Jump to content
SAU Community

Ap Racing Caliper

Kaido_RR
 Share

Recommended Posts

Kaido_RR Grand Master

Kaido_RR

Posted
Posted

Hi,

I've recently installed AP Racing Caliper (CP5200), with endless pads and slotted disc, on the front of my R33 GTS-T. Im still running stock rear brakes.

I have found that when hitting the brake hard (to the point, where the fronts will lock) i find that the passenger side will lock first.

Is this just a worn tyre, or uneven pad wear? my pads had around 1000-2000km wear when installed, could this be the course of the problem?

Also is this issue anything to worry about?

Cheers Michael

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187694-ap-racing-caliper/
Share on other sites
Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

I think the real problem is why are you locking brakes? generally when you are locking brakes into a corner any unloaded wheel will lock first as obviously it has less grip on the road/track so a given pressure will make it lock much more easily. so it could be tyres, could be road surface but again, I think the first order of business if find out why you are locking brakes.

djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted

Hi,

I've recently installed AP Racing Caliper (CP5200), with endless pads and slotted disc, on the front of my R33 GTS-T. Im still running stock rear brakes.

I have found that when hitting the brake hard (to the point, where the fronts will lock) i find that the passenger side will lock first.

Is this just a worn tyre, or uneven pad wear? my pads had around 1000-2000km wear when installed, could this be the course of the problem?

Also is this issue anything to worry about?

Cheers Michael

Well one or other of them has to lock first - usually it is the unloaded side.

But if you have put used pads in then, yeah that is probably your problem.

djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted

Cheers guys,

the reason for locking the brakes is to find out the new locking point, as the pedal feel has changed.

Can you offer any feedback as to how good/bad/indifferent the set up is?

How is the bias?

How is the pedal feel?

Which rotor size did you use at the front?

Kaido_RR Grand Master

Kaido_RR

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Can you offer any feedback as to how good/bad/indifferent the set up is?

How is the bias?

How is the pedal feel?

Which rotor size did you use at the front?

sure :glare:

Just for extra information:

Old Setup:

Stock Gts-t Caliper and disc with Bendix ultimate pads (F & R)

New Setup:

Ap Racing CP5200 Caliper with endless pads and 323 slotted disc (front)

Standard Gts-t rear caliper & disc with std pads

So far i have yet to test the new brake setup on the track but i will be doing that this sunday at mc; so atm my feedback is purely base on how i have tested them on the street.

Compare to my old setup, the brakes bit alot harder, and stop the car alot quicker. Also the car still feel balance under braking. I notice the greatest difference at high speed Around 100-120km/hr to low speed of 60km/hr, the car feels much more balance and stop alot quicker.

As mention above the bias is ok, at first i through i would have problems with the rear end not slowing down enough compare to the front but i didn't have any such problems. The only issue i see is that the front lock first.

In the beginning the pedal felt alittle harder compared to my oldsetup, but after a few days of driving it seem to soften up alittle but it is still harder compare to stock (only minor difference, as my oldman drives the car alot and he didnt notice the difference). I found thou that the amount of force required to push on the pedal to lock the car up is less than the stock setup.

Disc size are 323 slotted, im currently running nismo lmgt2 17inch rims, so im hoping i may be able to increase the size of the disc but i don't know what the max. size of the disc is for the caliper :D

final comments :ninja: I love the new setup, and can't wait to see how it will affect my times when i hit the track

Cheers Michael

Lunatikk Rising Star

Lunatikk

Posted
Posted

Michael if you've only driven the car on the road there's a better than average chance it's simply the road-surface camber causing the inside front to lock first, my Brembo 8's do exactly the same thing on certain roads. As long as all your alignment specs are OK it shouldn't be anything to worry about.

Something else to think about is how they brakes have been bedded. From the pics there looks like there's a nice layer of pad material on the rotors (although pics can be deceiving). Even if you think you know how to bed brakes in this article is well worth the read 'cos, with respect, I have spoken with several people about this exact matter in the past & even though they claimed to know it all, in reality they had NFI......

Enjoy!!

http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

Kaido_RR Grand Master

Kaido_RR

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ok just got back from a mc skid-pan day

in the beginning it took me a few runs to get used to the brakes, on my 1st run i locked up the front going 100km/hr and went off the skidpan onto the grass lol, then coming into the stopping zoned i locked up the fronts again.

Once i got used to the brakes, they stop the car alot quicker, and i was able to brake later. still need some more time to get used to them, also my tyres started to wear quick alot towards the end of the session, so i had to start braking earlier.

But all in all, i can say im extremely happy with the brakes.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...