Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 812
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yeah, thank god there is only 5 journals. Had to do it twice though, believe it or not but the crank tunnel was oval by half a thou. it was within spec but thought better to have it machined as this thing is going to see a bit more rpm than in standard form. Also had the oil galleries on the crank tear dropped. Just have to find some time to go and finish it.

Speaking of finish, the paint job is almost done. Boys painted the black top yesterday, they were blocking it back and re-painting it last night so cant wait to see it. ill post pics soon. Adrian has a few know, ill see if he will put them up. Had a pin stripe guy put some samples on the side of it, told him and the painter to sort it out as i couldn't choose. Also been talking to Ryan from ISC Coilovers about suspension components. He has been really helpful. I will be getting everything off him when i get to it, and can afford it Ha Ha.

nice hands stu.

showing off a new inside micrometer?

Ha Ha, very funny, in all seriousness, my daughter calls it bumblebee. she's 3 years old and a transformers freak.

now that its got a beautiful colour scheme whats it's name?

daisy?

muffin?

<insert gay yellow name here>

:down:

Have been fitting the car up for the last week, its amazing how you forget were stuff went or how it fit after 2 years, but slowly slowly. all door rubbers are back on, mirrors, fuel cell, pedal box, brake booster which i had out of a R33. had master cylinders serviced. Hope to finish engine assembily on saturday, well bottom end anyway. Bonnet is painted, have to fit pins with the panel beater. still waiting for boot lid. wheel centres are painted, waiting for outers to be polished. Post pics soon.

unfortunately no, unless you use a bellhousing that will accept starter on the other side, would also have to modify block as starter mounts on it. i have heard that you can get a kit, but am not 100% sure. might be able to find answers on ls1.com

any way around the power steering option??

Finally started work on the engine again on saturday. Cleaned block & crank, re-checked main bearing clearances which were perfect. Installed Cam bearings. Fitted crankshaft & camshaft.

Returned on monday hoping to have the same success with the oil pump, how nieve of me. It seems that the double row timing chain and hi-pressure oil pump combination was going to be a problem.

i made 3mm spacer + 1mm gasket to space oil pump forward to clear the now wider chain. this was perfect with the standard pump but the Melings pump body is wider, so i had to relieve it in a few spots with the die grinder to get sufficient clearance.

Now that that was O.K. i thought i would try the timing cover, and you guessed it, it wouldnt fit with the pump spaced forward. I replaced the oil pump cover bolts with cap head bolts to gain an extra 3mm clearance, relived the pump and cover in a few places and finally after about 2 hours got it to fit.

back in the evening to fit pistons. Rings were gapped earlier so were ready to go. Quick big end clearance check, then banged them in. all was looking good until it was found that the side clearance between the rods was tight as in V8s 2 rods share the same journal. so pulled 4 pistons back out to have the big end face machined. Will have another go tomorro. A bit frustrating when all of the bottom end is standard. just goes to show they slap em together in the factory.

post-20078-1210600757_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1210600824_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1210600919_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...