Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Cara you will need to sell your wheels to clear the brakes. You will need 18x8/18x9 +30 at the highest. Even my 18x10 +18 on the front, another 1-2mm and it would hit. Just make sure u choose the right offset and "disc" design on the wheels to make sure it clears.

Screw spacers, dangerous, stupid and illegal. Not to mention, if you are caught with them in an accident, insurance companies aren't generally too happy

Just get rims that fit correctly in the first place

Regardless, if I were to drive a car anywhere I wouldn't do it with spacers... that's just me though

yeah i just removed mine a couple weeks ago... the wheels look a bit better without them in my case...

cara dont u have 19's ? surely that should clear the calipers?

-D

Just because she has 19's Ben, doesn't mean she has a decent enough offset to clear larger calipers.

Good idea Steve, but I still don't think they are legal

not by rule of thumb but most 9's have a fair amount of caliper clearance considering people often need the bigger rims to clear the big calipers/bigger discs... its a chicken/egg thing

and ive seen her rims, theyre pretty bloody huge :laugh:

-D

Edited by Dohmar

i wouldnt say bolt on spacers are dangerous. I used 25mm on the back of my 31 while drifting for quite some time. They will be going back on the front sometime soon also. Never had a problem. Just make sure you buy hubcentric and get them from somewhere reputable. Adelaide tyrepower is where i got mine from.

cara, if youre spending $xx,000 on an engine package, $2k for some low offset jap (or china, whatever) wheels isnt that much of a stretch is it? sure spacers are a good short term fix, but buying proper wheels would be better.

but then, thats me, im getting annoyed running 5mm locating ring. :down:

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes the gear for the R33/34 is different, it is red and has a different number of teeth. My part didn't come with that gear though, so I don't know how many teeth are on the red one. You'd have to reuse the 260RS/R33 gear, as long as it's not destroyed.   Haha, as unfortunate as that might be it was working fine for about the first 1500km I've had the car for now.
    • Update all   thanks to the workshop manual, it lead me back to checking fuses as mentioned central locking and door open lights worked when acc was switched on. diagram attached shows two points of power 1. ACC and 2.  Batt with the later being fused (#28) I did check the fuses using a multimeter but I must have stuffed that up also. Went back and checked the batt fuse in interior fuse box and you wouldn’t believe it… a blown fuse. replaced fuse and everything is now working as it should including the climate control   thank you all with your positive insight and knowledge.    
    • Where is the warning "That this thread is super old"   I just went into a 5 year old thread, went to do a reply, and couldn't see anywhere obvious a warning of it being super old
    • Duncan is correct. Pitwork (and Toyota's own cheap brand "Drive Joy") were primarily created as brands to sell other manufacturers car parts. It would be weird if Nissan sold parts for Toyota vehicles with a Nissan logo on it, so they created Pitwork to sell parts for other brans Toyota, Honda etc. They are not the same as Nissan genuine parts, although they *do* meet Nissan's standards for replacement parts. They aren't supposed to be a substitute for genuine parts, but a cheaper alternative that is better than Ebay fake parts from you-know-where.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, much easier to work with it now it's free!  
×
×
  • Create New...