Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi, i'm new to this forum.

recently i replaced the blown engine out of my r33 gtst skyline with another one that i bought off ebay. everything went in and it starts and everything. however, there it has a few problems.

1) the revs fluctuate betweeekn 500 and 1300 rpm.

2) when driving and coming to a complete stop when you have the clutch in it just wants to stall out.

3)there is this fkn loud tapping sound comming from the bottom of the inlet side of the head. ( a few people have told me that it could be the lifters) personally i think the person who put the timing belt on originally it could be a tooth out but would it cause this problem? and the car goes really shit not smooth at all!!!!!!!

4) when coming on boost, the car just backs off by itself liek it sputters and missfires.

ive nearly had enuf of this car lol.. plz help. Thanks in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/190213-tapping-sound-coming-from-engine/
Share on other sites

1. Check AAC Value - also related to #2

2. I reckon you have a vac leak in a hose somewhere. Go over them all and find it

3. Could be anything fron noisy injectors, to lifters. Get a mech to check if unsure

4. AFM or, again the vac leak causing issues, spark plugs possibly, coils... could be many things

Basically you have common problems that are all trial and error mate.

Just keep checking parts, and have a read of various 'misfire' threads in this section that go over various problems.

AFM for the idle problem, stalling might be caused by a incorrectly place hose or not sealed like a atmo blow off valve. Also sure its not doing R and R rich and retard. The ticking most likely bad seated exhaust manifold, Check intercooler pipes and what not.

i mean liek a really loud tapping sound at idle.. and this gets louder the more u rev... it sounds like the cam is hitting the lifters

Sounds like big end bearings to me ..... Is it louder when the engine is hot ???

Im pretty sure that if it was a spun bearing the engine would be dead by now as once they go, they don't last much longer so i don't think its that.

If it gets louder with revs its obviously something that rotates and increases in speed so check your timing belt, tensioner, cam gears etc. If not then yeah it could have something to do with your cams/lifters.

Hi,

I've got the same problem with loud tapping sound on my R34 GTT except that it isn't always there, it's intermittent. I suspect VVT as it's comming from around the same area where VVT is situated on the intake cam. I know that SR20 from S14 and S15 are notorious for noisy VVT so I suspect that RB might have the same problem.

It'd be interesting to know what your mech's verdict would be.

i had that for a day or 2, turned out to be my radiator fan hitting the intercooler piping :P

Haha, I had the same problem. I removed the insulation from under the bonnet and problem solved. Seems the bonnet+insulation was pushing down on the i/cooler piping and as a result the fan was hitting it. :P

  • 1 month later...
This may be a few things.. but i think its the oil not getting up the top of engine quick enough? What viscosity oil are you using?

not sure wat oil, i put synthetic oil that was recommended from autobarn

they looked up my car in a book?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The incentives are mostly the same, yes. Ethanol is cheap compared to the cost of doing 98-100 RON with crude oil alone. 87 to 93-94 AKI all with E10. In 2020 Canada mandated E10 as a part of their "renewable fuel standard" and is supposedly going to go to E15 in 2030. In California where there are only 8 refineries with two threatening to shut down next year it's been over 20 years now of E10 and 91 AKI maximum because there's just not enough refinery capacity or crude oil supply relative to the demand for premium unleaded fuel. And CARB's low carbon fuel standard means functionally none of the diesel available at the pump is made from crude oil anymore. It's almost all entirely 20% biodiesel blended with 80% renewable diesel (hydrotreated vegetable oil) now. The number of gasoline vehicles that support E15 or higher ethanol concentrations is surprisingly low, I can't imagine it being wise to play tricks like this without flex fuel sensors in most of the fleet.
    • It's almost certainly the same as the one next to it. Have a fish around amongst these hits https://www.google.com/search?q=surface+mount+transistor+m33&sca_esv=9cb49794e0b2005d&source=hp&ei=2vJ5aNjTB7Kw0PEPldnS8QM&iflsig=AOw8s4IAAAAAaHoA6qkfmF6XcygtrZ4Vu9f92NXF_RFd&ved=0ahUKEwjYqIPP7MWOAxUyGDQIHZWsND4Q4dUDCA8&uact=5&oq=surface+mount+transistor+m33&gs_lp=Egdnd3Mtd2l6IhxzdXJmYWNlIG1vdW50IHRyYW5zaXN0b3IgbTMzMgUQIRigATIFECEYoAEyBRAhGKABMgUQIRigAUjKCFAAWABwAHgAkAEAmAHfAaAB3wGqAQMyLTG4AQPIAQD4AQL4AQGYAgGgAuYBmAMAkgcDMi0xoAfMBLIHAzItMbgH5gHCBwMyLTHIBwU&sclient=gws-wiz
    • South Australia, which is hardly as far behind as the rest pf Oz makes out, and who is also not a paragon of progressiveness (read that as over-legislation) in the area of vehicle standards, has this to say on the subject: Adjustable coil-over suspension Aftermarket adjustable coil-over suspension components are suspension units that incorporate an external thread on the main body and corresponding threaded spring saddle that allows the vehicle's suspension height to be varied. If fitting aftermarket or coil-over suspension components you must submit an Application to modify a light motor vehicle form and a report from a light vehicle engineering signatory (LVES).
    • Hi all, Long time since I've posted here. Looking for some advice on what I can remove to further identify the cause of my issues.  I can move the passenger seat forward and back but the knob used to adjust the seat angle is pretty much free spinning, there's very little resistance.  Removing the side cover I can see that the chain is intact but the shaft for the adjustment spins without the gear attached to it moving.  What's my next step for disassembly here? Is this a common fault? Just being a little cautious as I didn't want to start removing bolts for a spring to fly out or something equally as stupid.  Cheers
    • Those above shitboxes, mediocre and above usually have a turbo strapped to them, hence the slightly higher octane is required.  
×
×
  • Create New...