Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys just got back from Mallala where I had a track day today, my first ever and let me say I walked away like this ---> :(

Only problem, I also walked away with a blown turbo which wasn't so good :glare: Now I'm sitting here thinking I could throw a standard turbo back on but hey, that would be boring right? So I thought I might as well upgrade and go for an aftermarket jobbie like a hi-flow or something similar. Anyone got any recommendations? I don't want crazy power, just a nice usable 250 or so rwkw would be awesome; what's my best bang for buck?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191280-track-day-fun/
Share on other sites

Awesome.. :kiss:

A nice little GT3071r .6 IW-M, spend ~$150 on water and oil lines, $30 on a 10mm spacer plate, $150-$180 on an inlet pipe, $30 on the outlet 90degree elbow and $30 IC pipe extension. $200 for a new bell mouth dump.

The -M depicts the larger flapper that is now available from garrett; it costs $100 more over the std small 1" wastegate.

Bill at ATS can do reasonable prices on these turbo's, better than what GCG do from what I've experienced.

Might also be worth quizzing CRD as they can do some decent prices on turbo's all though they do tend to be on the slow side getting back to you. So don't get too worried if you don't hear from them in a hurry. :(

An easy 250rwkw with a little more to go should you wish to lean on it a little harder at a later date.

The GCG highflow will get to 250rwkw but it can be a stretch; with cams you can push 260rwkw but only just. However it is cheaper. :rant:

-------

I've got a few little things I'd like to do to mine before I take mine out. The usual oil cooler, oil temp, oil pressure and egt guage.

BUT I CANT WAIT!!!!! :glare:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191280-track-day-fun/#findComment-3441614
Share on other sites

Hahaha, don't tempt me Dan!

This 3071r that you boys are talking about, what sort of cost am I looking at all up? Obviously I'll need larger injectors too yes?

i'd personally get new injectors + fuel pump with the new turbz just to be on the really safe side.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191280-track-day-fun/#findComment-3441866
Share on other sites

The GT3071 IW (IW saves on ext gate costs and manifold costs) depending on where you get it can be had from 1800-2200.

Give ATS a buzz and see what he can do the GT3071r (60mm turbine wheel) and the .6 rear with the larger IW flap.

Dont let bill talk you in to using one of those ford 5bolt type IW housings as they are not that crash hot.

Be sure to ask for the 60mm turbine wheel version and also the larger IW flap that has an additional M on the end of the turbine housings part number.

With the .6 rear I really wouldn't bother running any bigger than the 76mm comp wheel because if the air can't get out it most definitely can't get in. So you trade the turbo's transient response (due to increased inertia contained within larger heavier wheels) and a little bit of a spool for .... nothing.

There's 2 versions of the GT3076r floating around.

The old crappy .7 comp cover 7blade comp wheel and the newer HKS3037S type .6 port shroud comp cover and 6 blade comp wheel.

The new GT3076 is good for low 300's with a pair of cams or mid 300's at the wheels with race fuel or WMI. The GT3040 has nothing over the new GT3076 apart from a little more lag and decreased transient response UNLESS you run the .8 rear and race fuel or WMI where it does make more power, mid to high 300rwkw's. Obviously that is running with a set of cams, exhaust manifold good exhaust etc etc.

So if you plan on running pump or the .6 rear its really not worth going the gt3040. It used to be once upon a time when the hks3037s core was not available through garrett but now it is........... :(

Sorry Dan, its only my opinion though. lol :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191280-track-day-fun/#findComment-3441907
Share on other sites

dont forget metal head gagit too. 1.3mm is the go for the 25. around 400 somalians for this!

just remember too..... you'll need supporting mods like injectors, ecu up grade, metal head gaskit,fuel pump.

dont be tight if your going for a up grade like your talking coz if you do it will only cost you your motor!

my 3 1/2 cents worth!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191280-track-day-fun/#findComment-3442007
Share on other sites

wtf sort of bullshit statement is that...the stock one is 1.2mm and is awesome why would you spend $400 on a 1.3mm that will do the same job..... If you were to upgrade the headgasket you would be going for at least a 1.6mm

also cubes...haha gt3040 ftw lol get bit higher hp lol...EXTERNAL GATE FTW

Edited by sinistagtst
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191280-track-day-fun/#findComment-3442061
Share on other sites

I love my crappy little HKS 2530 Luke - maybe a 2530 or 2535 might be an option for you - you can pick them up 2nd hand for around $1k every now and then. Pretty much lag free, and lots of fun. I am making 230 odd with my little 2530

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191280-track-day-fun/#findComment-3442399
Share on other sites

I'd leave the door open to make just that little bit more power. :rofl:

Having had ~268rwkw for a little while now I can't wait to get it up around 300.

It doesn't feel slow but you do think.. oh what if..

The bug will always bite :)

I agree leave room for more.

Edited by KISIN
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191280-track-day-fun/#findComment-3442502
Share on other sites

The GT-RS is also a good option to go for response wise and will make around the 260 rwkw mark and be very responsive from low rpm.

I know you luke and you will want to go for the GT3071 as the response is still good and you will love the way it comes on boost and pulls hard and 300 rwkws in a daily is always fun.

I would suggest getting the Deatscheworks that i got from America have seen quite a few people use these now with great results.

Also as has been stated before by Dangerman4 you should go for the bosch 044 intank fuel pump and not the walbro as it has been seen that these have a tendancy to struggle at around 300rwkw.

My 2c

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191280-track-day-fun/#findComment-3443389
Share on other sites

Hmmm... definately leaning more towards the 3070 option now.... Tried calling Bill at ATS but got the answering machine so hopefully he will ring back with a quote today :D

You are right though Shaun, probably best to get something with a little headroom, then I can always squeeze more out later when I get bored (which I will)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191280-track-day-fun/#findComment-3443910
Share on other sites

Definitely go the GT3071R over the GT-RS. They use the same compressor but different trims, 52T in GT-RS and 56T in GT3071R (correct me if I'm wrong) except the GT-RS uses the smaller GT28 NS111 turbine. These are only good for about 330hp, but the compressor is rated up to about 420hp. Little point in crammimg more air in if you cant get it out is there?

Just make sure that if you do get the GT3071R, get the proper 60mm turbine, not the cropped 56mm one.

Edited by salad
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191280-track-day-fun/#findComment-3444963
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...