Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 266
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

everyone needs to lay off on the racially sensitive remarks no matter how narrow minded and stubborn bkc appears to be.

I actually like BKC. he is a good addition to the forum, and challenges me ot understand google translator better every day.

he certainly is good value and adds character to the forum.

i don't think he's using a translator all the time either BB, some of his posts contain common grammatical errors. sometimes they are just as bad as other forum members. ;)

Hello .

Are there opinions, or information which is the best RB26DETT or VR38TT OR is still too early for such a comparison !!!??? ;)

Thanks ALL :(

hi,

all engines are, in the end judged on how they do the 'job' for which they were designed. the RB26DETT was designed to curb the dominance of the European engines [porche,ferrari,BMW etc] in Gp1 type racing. this it did very successfully. so by that measure it was a very good engine; it has the 'runs on the board'. it is the heart of the Godzilla legend and it created a cult following around the world. it is a famous engine. the new VR3.8 is designed to compete with the super car engines of the world and on paper, it looks competitive/impressive. but it is still only 'on paper' so in my opinion, it has a lot of hard revs to do out in the real world before it can be compared with the RB26.

let's have this discussion in five years time; if the new engine has created a global cult following, if has been given it's own mythical reptillian designation and doesn't meekly take the Godzilla label to gain undeserved 'street cred', then it will have drawn level with the RB26. now to get past the RB26, I think most will agree, is going to take some pretty serious motoring.

having said that, I have just returned from Japan where I made a point of going to a presentation of the new RB35 and later to the Nissan showroons to view the six new colours. for those that are not impressed with the car after seeing only photos I suggest you wait untl you see it in the flesh; this is a seriously beautiful and muscled-up car. also sat down and watched [in the showroom] the video of the car's Nurrburgring trial; powerful!!.

regards

Sorry for the long post.

RB26dett:

Sand cast iron, closed deck engine block

As already stated inline 6 (&V12) engine layout has perfect balance, and is even firing.

Some inline 6 engines do have torsional vibration problems due to length of the crankshaft, but this can be overcome with good design.

VQ35de

High presure die cast alloy, open deck engine block with cast iron cyclinder liners.

60 degree V angle. A 60 degree V6 in even firing (unlike a 90 degree V6 which needs splayed crankshaft journals in order to be even firing)

But a 60 degree V6 still has end to end vibration.

for more info on this try http://www.autozine.org/technical_school/engine/smooth1.htm

The open deck engine block is weaker than a closed deck engine block. However VQ's have been reliably boosted, proving how strong this design can be if designed and manufactured properly.

High pressure die cast engine blocks can also sometimes have problems with porosity.

VR38dett

What we know:

alloy block, plasma coated alloy cyclinder liners

95.5mm bore, 88.4 mm stroke

The engine could be a VQ35hr (or VQ40de) engine block with different liners and rotating assembley.

Or

As stated the engine is said to be based on the racing engines.

Modern racing engines tend to use the lost foam casting method. This method is very accurate with complicated shapes, is consistant and parts tend to have better finish than sand casting (also no chance of a stray sand particle going though your oil system) Lost foam also has the advantage of lower tooling investment, allowing production to be more flexible.

So if the engine really is based of a racing we are talking about a very very VERY serious piece of kit.

BRING IT ON

Cheers

P.S. I do also mourn the end of the inline 6. L28 with twin SU's and extractors sounds soooooo horny

thats funny, Edwin happens to know a few things, and one of them things Edwin knows is, its how many cams you have in your engine, it how you race your coor.

you better learn that......

granny shifting and not double clutchin like you should

you're lucky that 100 shot of NAWWWS didn't blow the welds on the intake.

now, me and the mad scientist gotta go rip apart the block...and replace the piston rings you FRIED

P.S. I do also mourn the end of the inline 6. L28 with twin SU's and extractors sounds soooooo horny

I too mourn the loss...though the idle coming from my Triple SU'ed holden 202 with a nice big solid cam makes me get over it soon enough =D

Now if I can only get the torry registered ....

hi,

all engines are, in the end judged on how they do the 'job' for which they were designed. the RB26DETT was designed to curb the dominance of the European engines [porche,ferrari,BMW etc] in Gp1 type racing. this it did very successfully. so by that measure it was a very good engine; it has the 'runs on the board'. it is the heart of the Godzilla legend and it created a cult following around the world. it is a famous engine. the new VR3.8 is designed to compete with the super car engines of the world and on paper, it looks competitive/impressive. but it is still only 'on paper' so in my opinion, it has a lot of hard revs to do out in the real world before it can be compared with the RB26.

let's have this discussion in five years time; if the new engine has created a global cult following, if has been given it's own mythical reptillian designation and doesn't meekly take the Godzilla label to gain undeserved 'street cred', then it will have drawn level with the RB26. now to get past the RB26, I think most will agree, is going to take some pretty serious motoring.

having said that, I have just returned from Japan where I made a point of going to a presentation of the new RB35 and later to the Nissan showroons to view the six new colours. for those that are not impressed with the car after seeing only photos I suggest you wait untl you see it in the flesh; this is a seriously beautiful and muscled-up car. also sat down and watched [in the showroom] the video of the car's Nurrburgring trial; powerful!!.

regards

Thank you for your reply

YES This is the correct and proper response.

RB26DETT is the best at least for the time being!! Wait and see what the outcome will be the new engine VR38DETT!! Will be seen in the near future!! :P

Thanks aLLL :rofl:

No the V series have already outdone the RB in terms of making outright power, ~2000hp as been made on drag VQ35s. Heat Treatments in NZ *WERE* going to run the motor from the GTR in their 350Z but with research decided that the VQ was a better motor, and they've pushed an RB further than anyone. A stock standard R35 GTR has already hit the dyno and made power which you basically need a cammed, forged, aftermarket twin turbo etc etc RB26 to make which feels gives you a quite laggy car - VR38 looks like its just yawning the power out.

P1.jpg

Thread:

http://www.nagtroc.com/forums/R35-Dyno-t20782.html

RB26DETT is the best at least for the time being!! Wait and see what the outcome will be the new engine VR38DETT!! Will be seen in the near future!! :dry:

Thanks aLLL :D

in reply to the statement

Fish coffee has packaging DVD ticket, so bunny banana rain really is speaker. Your shed, grass, 4cam 50 cam 600 cam. Grinding at 19000RPM and making turds at the same time.

Thanks aLL

in reply to the statement

Fish coffee has packaging DVD ticket, so bunny banana rain really is speaker. Your shed, grass, 4cam 50 cam 600 cam. Grinding at 19000RPM and making turds at the same time.

Thanks aLL

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!????????????????????????????? :wave::):):banana:

guys, it's only really funny to make fun of someones english speaking ability for about the first 5 or so pages. after that it gets less and less funny all the time. trust me on this.

No the V series have already outdone the RB in terms of making outright power, ~2000hp as been made on drag VQ35s. Heat Treatments in NZ *WERE* going to run the motor from the GTR in their 350Z but with research decided that the VQ was a better motor, and they've pushed an RB further than anyone. A stock standard R35 GTR has already hit the dyno and made power which you basically need a cammed, forged, aftermarket twin turbo etc etc RB26 to make which feels gives you a quite laggy car - VR38 looks like its just yawning the power out.

P1.jpg

Thread:

http://www.nagtroc.com/forums/R35-Dyno-t20782.html

hahahaha 350z made for drift loooool you can see DVD SHOCK ENGINE 350Z from japan((350Z COMPLETE SHOCK)) !!

I AM SURE YOU ARE MEAN 350Z COMPLETE AFTER MARKET, BODY ! CHISSIS! ENGINE ! TRANSMISSION .etc .

VR38DETT WILL BE SAME 350Z BUT WITH SOME THE DIFFERENCE,,38 TWIN TURBO etc . lool !!!!

TRUST ME ALL !!!!!!!!!! >_<

Thanks aLL .............. :sorcerer:

Edited by bkc

everyone knows the rb26 is better cause only the rb26 can make a car go around a corner so fast, it starves the engine of oil. ruined bearings is solid proof.

*edit - i vote this thread go to wasteland, so it never gets closed"

steve

"50 weight sounds nice....."

Edited by PHATR32
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet. 
    • Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
×
×
  • Create New...