Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Map rescale tool- enables utilisation of the entire map. (no more tuning for one boost level)

Map Calc- takes your Wideband AFR info and outputs a correction value for quick and easy tuning. Also includes a cell hit table to get rid of bogus AFR values.

post-2338-1194494766_thumb.jpg

post-2338-1194845405_thumb.jpg

Edited by BOOSTD
RB"s love 12's :)

Sorry, a missunderstanding. (just a tuning aid guide) Every setup is different. From load point 11 onward I would tune anywere from 12.3 -11.6

I have currently tuned for:

Inj

1.6bar Max load point 14, AFR 12.0-12.1

1.8bar Max load point 15, AFR 11.7-11.9

2.0bar Max Load point 16, AFR 11.2-11.4

Ign

30% Toluene load point 5-10 +7 degree's

load point 10-20 +6 degrees's

I also have an excel spreedsheet with has a database that I use with Datalogit to cut and past Wide Band AFR logging and outputs a corrected map in reference to a Target AFR map. Looking into making this automatic. Will post up soon.

would you tune a rb on 30psi on 12's?

for a general customer no, for a good mate with a known setup.... quite often :)

many RB26 tuners swear by the 12.0-12.2ish rule a good example is page 94 of the current HOT4S mag (diatribe i know) well know and respected tuning house willall racing has a dyno graph up with one of martins tunes featured running 12.2ish on a 300rwkw GTR

for a general customer no, for a good mate with a known setup.... quite often :thumbsup:

many RB26 tuners swear by the 12.0-12.2ish rule a good example is page 94 of the current HOT4S mag (diatribe i know) well know and respected tuning house willall racing has a dyno graph up with one of martins tunes featured running 12.2ish on a 300rwkw GTR

I find I comes down to each individual injector/fuel rail/pump setup. The key is to get even AFR's between ALL cylinders. Once this is acheived, leaner AFR's can be run more safetly. I have the standard fuel rail....with upto 6bar of fuel pressure at times. Will be replacing it with a center feed item before retuning.

for a general customer no, for a good mate with a known setup.... quite often :(

many RB26 tuners swear by the 12.0-12.2ish rule a good example is page 94 of the current HOT4S mag (diatribe i know) well know and respected tuning house willall racing has a dyno graph up with one of martins tunes featured running 12.2ish on a 300rwkw GTR

martins tunes...

hahaha what a joke,

Martin says wow it makes good power,

1 week later BOOM.

and im not talking about a stock engine.

read into that what you will but i wouldnt recomend uras advising people to take there afr over 12 when running over

1.5 bar. sounds painfully expensive when something minor goes wrong, like bad fuel or a broken alternator belt causing your fuel pump to slow down and you all know what happens from there. shit starts happening real quick once your over 12.5 heading to 13 afr while doing 7500rpm

martins tunes...

hahaha what a joke,

Martin says wow it makes good power,

1 week later BOOM.

and im not talking about a stock engine.

read into that what you will but i wouldnt recomend uras advising people to take there afr over 12 when running over

1.5 bar. sounds painfully expensive when something minor goes wrong, like bad fuel or a broken alternator belt causing your fuel pump to slow down and you all know what happens from there. shit starts happening real quick once your over 12.5 heading to 13 afr while doing 7500rpm

Do you tune for a living DANGERMAN4??

we are not talking martins tunes alone here, it just happens to be one of his... many top level tuners delve far leaner than 12 and 12.5. look at le mans cars etc

i also plainly said on cusomers cars they will get the plain jane tune, mates though always get the more agressive tunes as thier cars are well know by me therefore i am more able to exploit them safely..... never ever lost or hurt an engine.

I find I comes down to each individual injector/fuel rail/pump setup. The key is to get even AFR's between ALL cylinders. Once this is acheived, leaner AFR's can be run more safetly. I have the standard fuel rail....with upto 6bar of fuel pressure at times. Will be replacing it with a center feed item before retuning.

my advice is forget the centre feed rail idea. use the centre port for the reg and have a twin feed (1 in each end). from what I know it's a better way to do it. just split your fuel feed into 2 after the fuel filter. :P

my advice is forget the centre feed rail idea. use the centre port for the reg and have a twin feed (1 in each end). from what I know it's a better way to do it. just split your fuel feed into 2 after the fuel filter. :D

Roger, Roger..this is definately an area I haven't had much experience in.

HKS 2510, 2530, 2540 Comparison Dyno Chart Added on 2nd post (272Cams)

Still have the Excel files to add for you guys if I can work out how...............

Edited by BOOSTD

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...