Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Map rescale tool- enables utilisation of the entire map. (no more tuning for one boost level)

Map Calc- takes your Wideband AFR info and outputs a correction value for quick and easy tuning. Also includes a cell hit table to get rid of bogus AFR values.

post-2338-1194494766_thumb.jpg

post-2338-1194845405_thumb.jpg

Edited by BOOSTD
RB"s love 12's :)

Sorry, a missunderstanding. (just a tuning aid guide) Every setup is different. From load point 11 onward I would tune anywere from 12.3 -11.6

I have currently tuned for:

Inj

1.6bar Max load point 14, AFR 12.0-12.1

1.8bar Max load point 15, AFR 11.7-11.9

2.0bar Max Load point 16, AFR 11.2-11.4

Ign

30% Toluene load point 5-10 +7 degree's

load point 10-20 +6 degrees's

I also have an excel spreedsheet with has a database that I use with Datalogit to cut and past Wide Band AFR logging and outputs a corrected map in reference to a Target AFR map. Looking into making this automatic. Will post up soon.

would you tune a rb on 30psi on 12's?

for a general customer no, for a good mate with a known setup.... quite often :)

many RB26 tuners swear by the 12.0-12.2ish rule a good example is page 94 of the current HOT4S mag (diatribe i know) well know and respected tuning house willall racing has a dyno graph up with one of martins tunes featured running 12.2ish on a 300rwkw GTR

for a general customer no, for a good mate with a known setup.... quite often :thumbsup:

many RB26 tuners swear by the 12.0-12.2ish rule a good example is page 94 of the current HOT4S mag (diatribe i know) well know and respected tuning house willall racing has a dyno graph up with one of martins tunes featured running 12.2ish on a 300rwkw GTR

I find I comes down to each individual injector/fuel rail/pump setup. The key is to get even AFR's between ALL cylinders. Once this is acheived, leaner AFR's can be run more safetly. I have the standard fuel rail....with upto 6bar of fuel pressure at times. Will be replacing it with a center feed item before retuning.

for a general customer no, for a good mate with a known setup.... quite often :(

many RB26 tuners swear by the 12.0-12.2ish rule a good example is page 94 of the current HOT4S mag (diatribe i know) well know and respected tuning house willall racing has a dyno graph up with one of martins tunes featured running 12.2ish on a 300rwkw GTR

martins tunes...

hahaha what a joke,

Martin says wow it makes good power,

1 week later BOOM.

and im not talking about a stock engine.

read into that what you will but i wouldnt recomend uras advising people to take there afr over 12 when running over

1.5 bar. sounds painfully expensive when something minor goes wrong, like bad fuel or a broken alternator belt causing your fuel pump to slow down and you all know what happens from there. shit starts happening real quick once your over 12.5 heading to 13 afr while doing 7500rpm

martins tunes...

hahaha what a joke,

Martin says wow it makes good power,

1 week later BOOM.

and im not talking about a stock engine.

read into that what you will but i wouldnt recomend uras advising people to take there afr over 12 when running over

1.5 bar. sounds painfully expensive when something minor goes wrong, like bad fuel or a broken alternator belt causing your fuel pump to slow down and you all know what happens from there. shit starts happening real quick once your over 12.5 heading to 13 afr while doing 7500rpm

Do you tune for a living DANGERMAN4??

we are not talking martins tunes alone here, it just happens to be one of his... many top level tuners delve far leaner than 12 and 12.5. look at le mans cars etc

i also plainly said on cusomers cars they will get the plain jane tune, mates though always get the more agressive tunes as thier cars are well know by me therefore i am more able to exploit them safely..... never ever lost or hurt an engine.

I find I comes down to each individual injector/fuel rail/pump setup. The key is to get even AFR's between ALL cylinders. Once this is acheived, leaner AFR's can be run more safetly. I have the standard fuel rail....with upto 6bar of fuel pressure at times. Will be replacing it with a center feed item before retuning.

my advice is forget the centre feed rail idea. use the centre port for the reg and have a twin feed (1 in each end). from what I know it's a better way to do it. just split your fuel feed into 2 after the fuel filter. :P

my advice is forget the centre feed rail idea. use the centre port for the reg and have a twin feed (1 in each end). from what I know it's a better way to do it. just split your fuel feed into 2 after the fuel filter. :D

Roger, Roger..this is definately an area I haven't had much experience in.

HKS 2510, 2530, 2540 Comparison Dyno Chart Added on 2nd post (272Cams)

Still have the Excel files to add for you guys if I can work out how...............

Edited by BOOSTD

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks both. All good advice. Reminds me of drilling through stone wall for drainage pipe 😬 I'll let you know how I get on if I still have use of my hands afterwards 😅
    • Finally got shipping number for the intake and throttle body, shipped by UPS, so "should" be in my hands sometime next week, fingers fracking crossed
    • I'm so far behind in the jobs I have to do at both work and home (including car) that I have become immortal. There's simply no way that I can die now.
    • Each to their own I guess  Me, I put just as much time into cleaning inside of the cars as I do on the outside As for getting wet, it is really no different than steam cleaning the carpets at home, apart from the cars carpet dries alot faster than the house, again, I only do it in the hotter months and leave the car opened up for a few hours As I only do it yearly, it is just before I do the diff and gearbox service, so I clean the carpets, then it's up on stands, wheels off, service, clean the undercarriage,  grease the bushings and do a nut and bolt check on everything  Disclaimer: I typically had all the time in the world to kill when I was working 🤣, so spending a full day or 2 cleaning, serving and "looking at stuff" was,  easily achievable, and a fun mental therapy day As for time to kill, I retired last Wednesday, so apart from my physical training, my days are filled with lots of random jobs around the house and garden...."Idle hands are the Devils something something" I am also buying a new house sooner rather than later, I'm actually looking at a potential property tomorrow, I'm looking forward to getting a car hoist as I'm starting to get to old to crawl around under a car, I can only imagine all the undercarriage cleaning and looking at stuff when that gets set up
    • Yeah, I'm not interested in wetting the carpets, and I don't care about brown dirt/dust that lives deep in the pile or underneath. It's not like I crawl around on them in my birthday suit or eat dropped food off them (because there is never any open food in my car). The seats are alcantara (cheap Chinese imitation alcantara, to be sure!) with barely 1" of foam pad behind the surface. That's not getting wet either. Any car that I would be happy to get the interior wet, I would not care to put the effort into.
×
×
  • Create New...