Jump to content
SAU Community

Gearbox Oil Showdown

rbee25
 Share

Which Gear Box Oil do you use??  

140 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

Hands down the best gearbox fluid you can use. It is actually used in forms of motorsport (can the same be said for Redline) and my 193,000km gearbox has ran it since about 110,000kms. I have made over 200rwkws since 150,000kms and do lots of track work, motorkhana etc, last 13,000kms have made between 230-260rwkws,,,all on a std RB20 gearbox which are meant to be weak.

http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp_inter...90_B1278983.pdf

On the other hand there is Redline which i have heard a fair bit of anecdotal evidence that within a few weeks of running it has coincided with gearbox failure

From their own website there are repeated statements of not suiting synchro gears in certain applications, or not suited at all for synchro gearboxes :happy: I was going to use it but when there website said not to be used with synchro gearboxes ????

Mr. Keets Grand Master

Mr. Keets

Posted
Posted

I've run Redline in my 32R since I bought it, both engine and g/box approx 12,000K, my R makes 430 RWHP on the original build. I dont do anywhere near as much motorsport as Troy-a few drag meets here and there and the ususal spirtied driving I suppose, but when I changed over I immediately noticed the g/box felt firmer in the shifts and to date my oil pressure is still the same.

Not sure about Redline not recommending g/box oil for synchros but I wrote to Redline and recieved written recommendations, though i'm going to check out the site again though just to be sure.

As for Motorsport, Redline has a long tradition of providing lubricants to many teams in American motorsports. As an example, next time the NHRA fuellers or floppers are on check out who sponsors them. Sure Team Force is Castrol but look at the rest. Having said that, what's on the wing or container isnt always what's in the container - it may for example say Fuchs but it might be Redline :whistling:

In the end its whatever your comfortable with and what your pocket can afford.

BHDave Grand Master

BHDave

Posted
Posted

lol, you did better than me! I only had an rb20det box hold up behind my rb25 with 280odd rwkw. That thing hung together for over a year before i got around to putting the 25 box in. It's back behind another rb25 now too.

alexk Collaborator

alexk

Posted
Posted

Alot of my work is dealing (testing) with lubricating oils aswell as base oils. ALMC (Australian Lubricant Manufacturing Company) make all the castrol oils locally and their quality control is far better than than the rest. I'm not sure about Redline & Motul as they are manufactured in different countries, but ALMC make many different oils for various companies including Honda and Castrol and their quality is awsome.

I'm using Redline at the moment in my 32gtr and it is ok.. i haven't used the castrol stuff yet but it's definately next on my list. :wave:

Cheers,

P.s i don't work for ALMC

a20089 Veteran

a20089

Posted
Posted

Redline Lightweight ShockProof®

A unique gear oil designed to lubricate racing transmissions and transaxles which see serious loads (not recommended for most syncro-type transmissions). It has excellent low-temperature flow which allows easier shifting when cold. May be used to obtain maximum power transfer in racing differentials which do not see high temperatures. Similar to a 75W140 gear oil, but with the lower internal friction of an SAE 30 motor oil.

Used in most road-racing differentials with moderate power and dogring racing transaxles.

rbee25 Apprentice

rbee25

Posted
  • Author
Posted

after having VMX80 in my GB for a little over a month now, the gears were starting to feel real notchy.. It was great at the start (and made morning whine go away), but after a month felt like sand in my GB.

The other day I put in Redline Shockproof lightweight in, and what a difference!! WOW. although its quite pricey, the GB feels sooo smooth between changes now, cant believe it.

Defn recommended.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...