Jump to content
SAU Community

High Flowing A Turbo

stasis

By stasis,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

stasis Mentor

stasis

Posted
Posted

Hi guys,

im thinking of buying a blown turbo. Its 34N1 1441-AA403. It can pump 500ps. Is it worth it to get it high flowed? Im looking into making 320kw@4wheels. Or should i just save up and go for a GTSS? Im thinking if im getting it highlowed for the blown turbo i will put in a journal bearing instead of a ball bearing for a quicker response. Where can i get the turbos highlowed with journal bearing? And how much? Is it worth it and the effeort of getting the turbo higlowed? Differeces in perforamnce compared to the cost of highflowed and a GTSS?

My rig is actuall a 260rs which is basically a r33gtr. Will be using the rig only on the street though. Appreciate for any opinions or comments.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/193709-high-flowing-a-turbo/
Share on other sites
  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

stasis Mentor

stasis

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Journal bearing is LESS responsive than Ball Bearing.

As far as i know journal bearings are used for high speed applications. And its more precise in terms of the siiting of the shaft and the bearing itself. In a ball bearing it will have a minute play in the shaft due to the ball bearings.

stolen_s15 Mentor

stolen_s15

Posted
Posted (edited)

These guys will do it. But make sure you explain to them the benifits of journal bearings, as they might try to sell you those overrated ball bearing units. Also try to stay away from steel exhaust wheels, get ceramic, much lighter for faster spool. :laugh:

http://www.atpturbo.com.au/

Edited by stolen_s15
STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted
Journal bearing is LESS responsive than Ball Bearing.

plain incorrect......

GARRET have marketed it quite well but at the end of the day it is just another way to get the same result. If journal bearings are still the preffered choice for all jet fighter turbines (due to same performance better reliability) i will continue to take the debate with a grain of salt.

i dont care either way as we sell large amounts of GARRET and Journal type turbos :ph34r:

as for your hi-flow dont bother, i would just save up and getting GT-SS's as they are small enough to get the 320awkw you need with excellent response..

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
plain incorrect...... broad general answer made with no understanding of the physics behind it.

GARRET have marketed it quite well but at the end of the day it is just another way to get the same result. If journal bearings are still the preffered choice for all jet fighter turbines (due to same performance better reliability) i will continue to take the debate with a grain of salt.

i dont care either way as we sell large amounts of GARRET and Journal type turbos :ph34r:

as for your hi-flow dont bother, i would just save up and getting GT-SS's as they are small enough to get the 320awkw you need with excellent response..

Not quite ;)

I was talking specifically about the turbo's he wants to sort out.

Not a blanket statement that takes into accounts airplanes...

stasis Mentor

stasis

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Not quite :glare:

I was talking specifically about the turbo's he wants to sort out.

Not a blanket statement that takes into accounts airplanes...

LOL!!! yea thats what i thought too. All high speed turbines and jet engines uses journal bearing like my irrgation pump which is a groundfos. pulled it aprat the other and its got a journal bearing at the bottom of it.

Now what the maximum limits in terms of Hp or kw can i get the car into with stock internals? Long term realibitlity. Cos thats whats going to govern of which turbo to get.

Im cureently looking for parts like :

800cc injectors

bosh 044 fuel pump

FRPs

AFms

havent decide which turbo yet?!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • CRSKmD
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By CRSKmD · Posted

      yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...