Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

anything that is bigger than the stock turbo on the rb20 is going to pose a response issue. its just a matter of how much lag you can live with..

after all regardless of what turbo you put on it, its still an rb20.. which means a small stroke and gutless at low rpm

i'm not the best to give advice on turbo setup, other than i had an rb25 turbo and response was essentially unchanged over the rb20 its only a very small upgrade in the scheme of things. a 2510 would be awesome i would have though, but $$. 2530 is supposed to be great but again even this is going to give lag, it all comes down to what you're used to and whether or not you can stand the lag issue

if you want response, consider an exhaust cam gear instead of an aftermarket inlet manifold (which you mentioned) which will probably do absolutely nothing..

Edited by WazR32GTSt
anything that is bigger than the stock turbo on the rb20 is going to pose a response issue. its just a matter of how much lag you can live with..

after all regardless of what turbo you put on it, its still an rb20.. which means a small stroke and gutless at low rpm

i'm not the best to give advice on turbo setup, other than i had an rb25 turbo and response was essentially unchanged over the rb20 its only a very small upgrade in the scheme of things. a 2510 would be awesome i would have though, but $. 2530 is supposed to be great but again even this is going to give lag, it all comes down to what you're used to and whether or not you can stand the lag issue

if you want response, consider an exhaust cam gear instead of an aftermarket inlet manifold (which you mentioned) which will probably do absolutely nothing..

thanks for the input, really appreciate it. I think I'm going to stick with the 2510. Do you suppose an intake manifold like the 26 style would help out? I really like the low rpm spool, but I like revving too so I could live with a 2530 if that's what it comes down to. What would make an rb20 safe to rev to 8000rpm + ?

What would make an rb20 safe to rev to 8000rpm + ?

With the sized yurbos you are looking at i would suggest there is little point reving the engine that hard as power will most likely nosed over. Safe? They can do it std, but safe? Revs kill motors more then boost. Only rev it as long as you are mmaking power. I would actually drop the rev limit to 7,000rpm and give it a well tuned 16psi for a reliable engine setup

Do you suppose an intake manifold like the 26 style would help out?

all i know is what i have read on this forum and from magazines, but it all points towards that style of manifold doing NOTHING except making you LOSE low down torque. waste of money imo.

Shorter runners = better top end response but less torque down low (I think that's how it works).

The standard 25DE intake manifold I have is proven to be good for nearly 500rwhp. Ports are slightly bigger than the RB20 manifolds. More than enough for my current goals.

Edited by bubba
pretty useless tho unless you port the head also, they are a different shape also. its not as simple just to bolt it on and hope for gains

I was planning on doing all new bearings below, maybe pistsons/rods/head work, balance everything. The goal would be a 260rwkw motor that is responsive that can take a good beating. If I have enough cash maybe I'll look into a tomei motor, although they are expensive :D !

I was planning on doing all new bearings below, maybe pistsons/rods/head work, balance everything. The goal would be a 260rwkw motor that is responsive that can take a good beating. If I have enough cash maybe I'll look into a tomei motor, although they are expensive :domokun: !

You are going to struggle to hit that sort of power with a 25 turbo or 2510, even the 2530 IMO.

There is no real need to spend all that money on head work and balancing if, more so if your on a budget.

Grab your stock 20, strap a TD-06 to the side, cams, 550's, Z32 (other supporting mods) and decent tune and you will have near your target power.

If it goes pop then you can buy another motor for $500 and swap everything over or go with the Tomei motor or rebuild :)

You mentioned doing this on a budget and not being able to afford a 2530 but your talking about forged pistons, rods, head work etc which is going to cost you a mint :)

  • 3 weeks later...

Howdy all, plenty of good advice in here and just one more thing to consider, to possibly have a match in engine to proposed new 2530, big dollars on supporting internals is on the cards. I cant help but think that maybe a rb26dett front cut transplant might be your best option.

Straight up 200+kw atw and twin turbos, newer motor-more parts available, however, to keep within the theme of this thread consider the pipe work from induction thru turbo to inter then back to engine, and dont oversize too far if at all from factory specs and you will be well on the way, also consider the pipe work lengths, greater dist. airflow to travel the greater the lag, 450mm wide bar&plate intercooler instead of standard 600mm may help this also. ARC have some good info on this, ring them and have a chat. Once you have decided upon your turbo look at purchasing from the US, bought-shipped to your door its still heaps cheaper than buying them here + no sales tax- my bro has bought 2 (separate evo2 rocketship builds) and saved nearly $1000 on each unit.

  • 2 weeks later...

he was talking about maybe getting a high flow turbo, as he is on a budget, and your suggestion is buying a gtr half cut and doing an engine transplant. and then, on top of that, purchasing upgraded turbo, from the us of all places, and getting them shipped here.....

So I suppose if I asked for tips on upgrading my stereo system, your suggestion would be to purchase a 350z, with bose stereo system, transplant that into my car, and then rip out most of it, and order whole new components from the us. and make a great saving....

lol toddlls, you're on drugs... that's not even in the same realm of being feasible.

I run a HKS 2530 on my standard RB20... most responsive RB20 I've been strapped into. Not a power monster like Brisby's TD06 RB20 upsized combo beast... but starts spooling at 3500 RPM, bolts in with minimal fuss, very streetable in the wet, and best of all, actually passes emissions when wound down to 8PSI :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
    • I have more than enough digging, laying blocks, moving gravel, airrating, feeding and top soiling the grass, and setting up the veggie gardens growing some seedlings,  and then removing all the unused rock to keep me busy for the next few months at least,  hopefully the rain stops soon so I can get a few hours in this arvo, but, before that Sunday is washing day, is every body happy, you bet your life we are Nice country road day drives are a day off whenever I'm muscle sore from all the landscaping at the moment, but, more epic multiple day drives will start once the majority of the big jobs outside are completed
    • I hear that would involve some nice country road drives into the hills for Mark...
    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
×
×
  • Create New...