Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got my 120 degree intake made up yesterday, fitted it today, seems a hell of a lot more responsive (had to be careful, pissing down out here). Need to get my BOV adjusted properly yet, every now and then when pulling up it stalls, and yes its a plumb back. What is the best way to adjust it?

1st pick shows with original.

post-536-1196664316_thumb.jpg

2nd pick shows both side by side, alot of piping taken out.

post-536-1196664389_thumb.jpg

3rd pick shows new pipe fitted up. Even looks alot better.

post-536-1196664438_thumb.jpg

Photos were taken with my phone, i left my camera at home, did the job at work.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196148-120-degree-intake-pipe/
Share on other sites

i think it would make a difference. he's eliminated 2 sharp-ish bends which will cause a bit of turbulance and restriction. the last bend is open in terms of the angle.

i like the design. to get to your last 3 plugs you need to take the crossover pipe off anyway. at least now its only a matter of 2 clamps and you can swing it around. the oil filler cap will be a bit of a problem though.

I'll be going for exactly this kind of setup in about a months time. SydneyKid and a few others recommend it. RE in the way of the sparkplugs/coils - the only piping I've seen that isn't is a forward facing plenum, any other aftermarket IC piping is also in the way and has to be taken off for work. I'll be trying Hypertune's kit, apparently it's 5 piece.

Oil filler cap isn't that big of a problem

I have a pipe much similar to that

When I'm doing oil, I'm doing plugs at the same time, so that pipe is off!

If I needed to "top up" you can still get the cap off easily enough.

Bonnet isnt as problem and i can live with the oil filler cap, 2 clamps and its off. I think it even looks better. Intake temps have dropped a little as well, i monitor those with one of those jaycar temp probes.

Also, Wolverine: That's the exact same one I run. I don't find hose clamps are needed to be loosened at all.

they might have modified the kit slightly, i got mine a while ago. mine fowls slightly so loosening the clamps is enough to unscrew the cap.

or possibly the location of the cooler is different on yours which lifts it up the few mm's to clear the cap?

Edited by wolverine

just throwing it out there.

wouldnt it be more beneficial to get a forward facing intake plenum.

im installing one atm and it gets rid of almost 2m of piping and looks clean.

nice and clean. u can access the engine block without all the piping in the way

Edited by r33cruiser

plenum=200-400 ebay

bolts, nipples etc=20

xf TB= 50 ebay

270-470. and is a long term fix with greater benefits.

labour costs=NO

=diy

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/to...um-t181826.html

Edited by r33cruiser
Another negative comment, didnt get any last night ay?

:)

Don't get me wrong.

It's the design I would do from the start if I was doing a fmic.

Gibson motorsport used this on the race R31's..

I just wouldn't have bothered if it already had the U shape across the motor like he already had.

each to their own.

had to do this too, as my turbo was in the way of the stupidly wide arc made by the original piping. i dont think i want it close to the exhaust anyway

i dont like the look of it tho, so will go some sort of front facing plenum eventually

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...