Jump to content
SAU Community

Why Do Only R33's (turbo) Have The Pod-suction Sound?

Spunky Munky
 Share

Recommended Posts

Spunky Munky Grand Master

Spunky Munky

Posted
Posted

Well fellas,

as the topic suggests... I've driven a few of my mates's R32's and have recent been driven around in a mate's R34 and for some reason - even though my mods and his mods are very similiar, e.g. BOV, FMIC, Blitz/Apexi Pod - how come only the R33's have the nice and aggresive suction and flutter sound as opposed to the R32 and R34 where close to no sound comes from the Pod?

I don't understand, the engine set up e.g. is pretty much identical?

Cheers,

SM. :whistling:

krush Collaborator

krush

Posted
Posted

dude my 32 has more induction sound then i can poke a stick at. its almost annoying. even light throttle so its only boosting like 1psi will have a slight sucking sound more then able to be heard in the cabin. nothing out the ordinary either, normal pod/cooler/exhaust mods.

jake33 Experienced

jake33

Posted
Posted (edited)

maybe your mates 32's and 34's are non turbo. :)

seriously though... dont know where you would get that . All have the fulli sick suction sound if there turbos and got a open exposed pod. Some pods will be louder than others but still...

my mates 32 has similar mods as my 33 and his is louder.. go figure

at the end of the day, who cares.

Edited by jake33
Spunky Munky Grand Master

Spunky Munky

Posted
  • Author
Posted

That's strange... the R32 I drive had a pod, front mount, BOV etc... so does my car... my mates R34 has similiar mods... but for some reason, mine sound much more aggressive.... I don't know why...

R34GTFOUR Mentor

R34GTFOUR

Posted
Posted (edited)

the suction sound can be affected by the filter itself, some are louder than others.

the suction sound can also be affected to what boost level your running, more boost, more suction, more noise.

The "flutter" sound is compressor surge, and that is affected by the setting of the bov. If the bovs spring is set hard, then its not going to release the intake charge as much as a soft set spring, therefore you will have more "flutter" going back through the turbo and out the pod.

Even though you and you mates may have simular mods, ie pod, bov, fmic, the brands themselves and they way the are setup can affect the noise

Edited by R34GTFOUR
MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted
dude my 32 has more induction sound then i can poke a stick at. its almost annoying. even light throttle so its only boosting like 1psi will have a slight sucking sound more then able to be heard in the cabin. nothing out the ordinary either, normal pod/cooler/exhaust mods.

I have loud as shit induction noise while I'm still at 10mmHg!

You don't even wanna hear it when it comes on boost! It sounds like a pure animal if you're driving alone beside it.

Mind you, 3" stainless pipe from motor to filter helps with this... Then I must also have a "noisy" pod...

R34GTFOUR Mentor

R34GTFOUR

Posted
Posted
Mind you, 3" stainless pipe from motor to filter helps with this... Then I must also have a "noisy" pod...

yeah metal intake piping makes a huge difference to intake sounds. The stock rubber intake absorbs quite abit of the induction sound, put a nice alloy or stainless pipe in place of it and you'll notice a nice jump in db's haha

West Grand Master

West

Posted
Posted
That's strange... the R32 I drive had a pod, front mount, BOV etc... so does my car... my mates R34 has similiar mods... but for some reason, mine sound much more aggressive.... I don't know why...

Your has fully sick rebuilt engine from japan.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
×
×
  • Create New...