Jump to content
SAU Community

First car for mature P Plater  

43 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

I'm 22 years old, about to buy my first car. I've been on my P's for less than a year will be looking at 2+ years left on restrictions. I got my license before July so can drive a turbo as long as it's less than 125kw/tonne. I would appreciate any opinions pro's/cons of going R32 GTS-T vs an N/A R34 25GT (basically the old vs newer / faster vs slower question).

Can spend ~$20K, but of course I would spend less if buying an R32. My main 2 thoughts are that an R34 will only be a few $1000's more for something far newer, but then there's the difference in power too. This isn't going to be a daily car, I generally use my motorbike for commuting (2007 Kwaka GPX-250R).

R34 - ~1340KG 148kw = 110kw/tonne @ flywheel

Pro's:

- Safer (airbags, abs etc)

- Looks nicer

- More reliable being a newer car?

Cons:

- Less power

- More $$

R32 - ~1320KG 158kw = 120kw/tonne @ flywheel

Pro's:

- More potential for engine modding

- Turbo!!?!?

- Older car, won't care *as* much if it gets scratched etc

Cons:

- Older, less safety features, less reliable due to age?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196773-first-car-skyline/
Share on other sites

I would get the 32 based on it's light weight and performance!! it also depends what u want in a car... if u want to cruise and pimp the ride, get the 34 for the 'look'. Get the 32 if u want to perform! If u still split between the 2 get a 33 in the middle. u get comfort, safety and performance!

s2 stagea. newer, can be had for 13-16k, awesome cars, practical, less police hassles. reliable, safe, great cruiser/daily. Series 2's look great, r34 motor etc. silver one on carsales has been on there since july, i would personally try and get it for 12-14k.

-Ryan

In your situation, I would definitely go the R34, especially if you are concerned about the "power to weight" laws (rightfully so); as according to the Police records (ie: VICroads) the R32 GTST is OVER 125kw/tonne, therefore is illegal.

Yes it's B.S. but unless you want to send $1000's in court fees, lawyers, etc., proving otherwise, you run the risk of getting done for driving an over powered car ;) .

PS: If the Police think your mods have increased power to over 125kw/tonne, they have the right to still pin you with the law and you have to prove (which you can't do) that the mods have not increased the power.

ie: exhaust = over

ie: more boost = over

ie: bigger turbo = over

^ it's a conspiracy between the police at the public transport department.

More defects = more money for the police

More defects = more cars of the road = more people on public transport = more money for them

See my theory here?

P.S. Get the R34.

depends on what you want the car for if you wanna thrash the crap out of it and drive hard go the 32, 13k should buy you a nicely modified one, try and get one with plenty of mods cause it costs heaps to modify from stock.

but if you want a cruiser and a car that you won't have to be fixing all the time get the 34.

maybe the r34 now, and when ur off the Ps drop a new motor in?

or get the r32 and hopefully u dont get harassed by the cops.

mmmmmm booost.

Edited by eddieeeee-ro

r34

newer

cheaper to run

more economical

better style & features & comfort

then when your off your p's sell it and buy a GTST if you still like skylines

1990 compared to 1998 is a massive difference

forget potential, weight etc

they mean nothing to a first car owner

In your situation, I would definitely go the R34, especially if you are concerned about the "power to weight" laws (rightfully so); as according to the Police records (ie: VICroads) the R32 GTST is OVER 125kw/tonne, therefore is illegal.

Yes it's B.S. but unless you want to send $1000's in court fees, lawyers, etc., proving otherwise, you run the risk of getting done for driving an over powered car :D .

where did you find the info saying the r32 is over power:weight limit?

Email i received from Vicroads says its P-Plate legal...

only true way to find out would be to contact DOTARS and ask them to specify with exact weight and power from their database. Police only have weight of vehicle in their systems

How much do R34 GT's sell for?

I reckon go for a test drive in both cars and decide then.

The R34 would no doubt have less problems and be a nice cruiser. If you are tight on cash, it would be much easier to maintain.

The R32's are getting old and need constant attention to keep them running smoothly.

As you said that you already have a 2nd form of reliable transport, id go the R32. So if you do get any problems with it, you can just ride the bike :D

Save the cruiser for when you need a family car, and go nuts with the r32.

*this reply may be biased ;)

Hrmm this is a tough situation.

I say go the r32 gtst, only because you have the turbo there, but R34s look better!

However, i have been in and have driven an r34 GT and the power for a N/A isnt so bad at take off...then dies down :D

i rekon give them both a test drive! Also, as some on here has already mentioned, why not the r33?

How much do R34 GT's sell for?

As little as $15K complied (plus tires, reg) for a 1998 model through J-Spec, a few more grand for a 2000 model.

i rekon give them both a test drive! Also, as some on here has already mentioned, why not the r33?

R34 GT will be harder to find for a test drive I think. I do plan on importing if going R34 route, but yeah test drive will be needed to make my mind up.

R33 N/A has about the same power compared to R34. R33 Turbo is over the power:weight ratio allowed on P's. If I'm going N/A I'd much rather spend a bit more to get an R34 over R33.

where did you find the info saying the r32 is over power:weight limit?

I remember reading a post that someone got done for power-to-weight in a 32 gtst. The cop even showed him the data base on the computer. Can't remember who it was :D.

If you have a letter from VICroads, saying otherwise, keep it in your car and just show the cop if the problem arises. But if you have any mods on your car, as mentioned previously, this will exceed the power to weight limit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was using the wiring diagram I have So 12.74V is coming into the rear Fuel Pump relay as I measured.  When I turn the key to ON im getting 0.6V to the Fuel Pump plug; which i assume is backfeed voltage and doesnt include the 12V from ignition power.  The rear relay is working and being triggered.  From the diagram I clearly see the rear relay 80 = Rear Relay going into the Body/H loom (R-27) 27 = Fuel Pump plug going into the Body/H loom (T-20) 40 = Short Connector (R-27) I'm reading 12.74V on the blue/black wire which is the power for the Fuel Pump   From this diagram I can see the Ignition relay goes into the front and up to the ignition  2 = Fuel Pump Relay <1M> (R-27) 37 = ING Relay <1M> I started from the pump using this reference Which the way I read it (referencing Nissan wiring color codes) is: Pin Wire Color Function 1 B/P (Black/Pink) Ground 2 L/W (Blue/White)        ECU Trigger 3 SB (Sky Blue) Fuel Pump 5 L/B (Blue/Black) 12V Constant Tested SB to SB on Fuel Pump for continuity - confirmed Tested negative on Fuel Pump to 12V battery and L/B - confirmed 12V Pulled the relay putting 12V between Pin 1 & 2 and testing continuity on Pin 3 & 4 - confirmed relay   So that has me looking at this part of the circuit to understand whats happening here...and im still confused. From best I can tell; the disconnect is back to my previous diagram; between Ignition Relay and Fuel Pump Relay...which yet again; afaik is where the immobiliser should.    Thats what I was trying to explain to GTSboy; im not trying to fix it myself; yet I seem to have to get a Masters in Electrical Engineering (while im busy doing my actual job of DevOps & Cloud Engineering) somehow.  I just wanted more expert opinions; or more so that what I tested is correct and proves it to something around that area; to go back to the alarm tech (for a 3rd time) that he needs to fix it. He keeps telling me its not the alarm. He lives on the complete other side of the city so i understand not wanting to make a trip but as I said before if its the alarm it should be up to him to fix it. But he's adament its not; even though I pointed out the FP was immobilised through the original alarm. To my mind; it seems that the ECU is sending the signal; but the ignition is not getting 12V down the line.       
    • Maybe also really stiffly sprung track cars. Get the inside wheel up in a corner and all the fun stops. Also me sometimes (rarely) when I have to stand on the brake to convince the diff to drive the wheel that is still on the ground when I'm trying to diagonally get over severe driveway entrance, etc.
    • I feel like I'm missing something. You had an authorised installer come out and install a new alarm. Post install the car doesn't start, and you aren't getting the installer back to fix what they did wrong?
    • So either way it is gearbox out and look what is wrong?  I know about the input shaft bearing. Even before swap/new clutch the it sounded exactly like this: So is that inout shaft bearing or the other was installed backwards?  And can some please tell me the part number for that input shaft bearing? The gearbox is small box from R34 N/A and number is FS5W71C. Thank you  
    • I am yet to see anyone ever regret a quaife or helical. ...other than drifting/skidpan duties. I kind of want to upgrade my factory helical with a Quaife (but really it's not ultimately that different, and is a MASSIVE UNDERTAKING), that's how good the hype is about them, that I want to try them 'just to see'  
×
×
  • Create New...