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yeah that would be awsome if i could borrow/use them to test it out thanks heaps for all the help ppl i didnt expect this much help

Get used to it... you're in da family now LOL they're an awesome bunch here

geezus, talk about appearing out of the woodwork Michael :ermm: Where have you been?

LOL. Around and about. Still catching up on missed sleep. If you ignore the terrible state of my car, I might even come out to the museum tonight (assuming it's on).

I didnt say what kind of AFM it was I just said clean it... I know that it improves the response and smoothens the idle if you do it properly because I have done it on multiple RB25's and RB20's and it has worked everytime.

You said to 'clean the wire' - which doesn't exist in a Nissan AFM. The main sensor is deposited on an insulator parallel to the airflow, and the only wire is the ends of the resistor used as a temperature comparator. Yes, you can clean it all, but bloody carefully.

You said to 'clean the wire' - which doesn't exist in a Nissan AFM. The main sensor is deposited on an insulator parallel to the airflow, and the only wire is the ends of the resistor used as a temperature comparator. Yes, you can clean it all, but bloody carefully.

Fair enough.

There is a very thin wire in my AFM aswell as a couple of other RB25 ones that I have cleaned recently, and it is nearly always covered in crap.

It always helps to clean your AFM regularly and for that reason I dont usually recommend using carbi cleaner because it can be corrosive, but just once shouldnt hurt it if you dont use to much of it...

I actually use CRC Automotive Electrical cleaner spray which is specifically formulated to not damaged the sensitive electronics and it works wonders. :ermm:

Edited by Bullet32

Thin wire with a lump in the middle? That's the resistor (or perhaps a thermistor), which is documented by Bosch as "auxiliary temperature sensor". The actual sensor is on the flat insulator in front of the resistor. It works the same way as a hot-wire meter - but has a slower response time and isn't self cleaning. Can't be too bad - Porche uses these thin-film sensors as well.

Easy way to check it's the coils:

Pull the plastic cover off that hides the coilpacks/sparkplugs.

Wait for a hot/warm night.

Go for a very spirited drive where it is safe/quiet. I found that it was easiest for me to recreate the missing was to do 7 or 8 spirited 0-100's. Don't even need to smash the clutch up doing it, it's more the point that you're putting a LOT of load on the engine to heat it up, which is when the coils will miss.

Then pull over, pop the hood, stick your head in over the engine so you can see in where the coil packs are (careful).

You should be able to see little flashes of light where the coils are missing, because they actually miss while just idling too (maybe not if they are only just starting to go, but mine all but 4 of mine were buggered so it was easy to see). The reason you're doing this at night is so it's easy to see the flashes when the spark arcs to the block/wherever.

If you see the flashes, you know you're up for 500 bucks and most likely problem solved. And if I can change my coilpacks, anyone can :D

Edited by sl33py
  • 2 weeks later...

thanks heap guys i found the problem i think >_< finally got my mate to check the fuel presure and it was low and when u squezed the regulator line nothing happened (at first) he kept doing it and then the pressure built up agian its running alot better now at 10 psi but i think it leans out around 13-15 psi im gonna get a new fuel pump and see how it goes any suggestions? on good brands? or performance ones?

ps hope u guys had a merry christmas and happy new year i did :)

LOL. Around and about. Still catching up on missed sleep. If you ignore the terrible state of my car, I might even come out to the museum tonight (assuming it's on).

Ahh cool. Im getting mine back on tuesday after a year off the road, cant wait. Oh and dont worry about rough looking, they will be on par at the moment. :P

Hey guys

ok i had a look today for a fuel pump the only one i could find was from nissan i tryed auto pro and repco the didnt have a listing for it nissans one was an in tank one and they wanted $900 i was wondering does anyone know where i can one for a little bit cheaper? lol i dont really wanna spend $900 on a standard fuel pump

thanks in advance

Edited by R33Gtst Driver
If you want I can probably get you a Bosch 040 in tank pump for between $300 - $350 or you can try calling the boys at Trojan, they'll be able to help out.

is that the one that good enough for 400hp?

might want something a little bigger than a 040 if your looking for that kind of power

Bosch 040 http://www.tweakit.net/shop/product_info.p...products_id=363

Bosch 044 http://www.tweakit.net/shop/product_info.p...products_id=369

thanks titan i think ill get the 044 theres only like a $10 differnce so why not :D

splitfire coilpacks will solve your problem..

ill try them next how much are they? and were do you get them from?

Edited by R33Gtst Driver

"might want something a little bigger than a 040 if your looking for that kind of power

Bosch 040 http://www.tweakit.net/shop/product_info.p...products_id=363

Bosch 044 http://www.tweakit.net/shop/product_info.p...products_id=369"

Bosch 040 is definately good for about 400hp when coupled with a decent pressure regulator, I personally know of a VL with an RB30DET that has 400hp at the wheels that is using an 040.

If youre looking for an in tank pump then you dont want an 044 because they're external, you will have to modify the fuel system to use an 044.

My recommendation is to source a Walbro in tank.

Talk to Trojan in Mitchell or ESP in Queanbeyan.

Yes Trojan have them in stock, wont say the price as I get a little off most times, there is nothing wrong with walbro!!!!!!!!!! as long as its not the asian knock off type and with a little modifying they fit a straight swap.

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